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help required chosing a fEARful design

#82
One little note about PA/DJ cab doubling.....

Pole mounting give you a what, 3-6ft. distance off the floor? That causes a notch somewhere in the bass, 50-100hz or so. A centrally located sub with a pair of sattelites would be the more "proper" way to go about it, although plenty of us run bass through our tops and get along fine.

The sub would then be pretty much a requirement for doubling as a bass rig. Not a big deal for those of us with biamping already built into our bass amps, but could be an issue otherwise.

Just more to think about.

"Fullrange", cabs that can take power, like the fearfuls, get me to the point of thinking they could be better employed as PA's with all the instruments coming through them, and used as dedicated bass rigs as a second option, but I'm probably in the minority there. For folks who don't want to drag around subs, and the extra gear to properly use them, the fearfuls would make killer PA/SR/DJ cabs.
 
#83
will33 said:
"Fullrange", cabs that can take power, like the fearfuls, get me to the point of thinking they could be better employed as PA's with all the instruments coming through them, and used as dedicated bass rigs as a second option, but I'm probably in the minority there. For folks who don't want to drag around subs, and the extra gear to properly use them, the fearfuls would make killer PA/SR/DJ cabs.
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When we are too lazy to set up and tear down everything before and after every practice we use my rig like this.

My pre to the board
keys to the board
Guitar through effects pod to the board
vocals to the board

Mix it and run that to my IPR and through my '66. We point the whole thing at my drummer and pound away.
 
#86
singlemalt said:
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f15/finally-played-one-terrifying-;-926630/index8.html#post13370491

Two active fEarful threads and we should have trolls come a running.
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I honestly don't know why the trolls need to comment. For years, most on TB have been begging for cabs that go low, loud and are light. You know...something that violates the laws of physics.

There are some new cab designs (that a fEARful is one of) that are making the fewest compromises in an attempt to fulfill these desires. So why the trolling about it? Especially if one isn't among those who wanted those things? Lots of worthwhile choices these days.
 
#89
vbchaos said:
I wonder that is was stated my 300W head may have not enough power for these cabs... Can anybody explain this in a bit more detail? Somewhere I lost the red wire :-)
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Have no worries. I use a tube head with the largest of these cabs, the 1515/66/1. Can the cab take more power? sure, but the fEARful cabs do not suffer from terrible sensitivity. In fact my 1515/66 was the first cab that could do what I wanted at the volume I wanted to that sound at.
 
#90
vbchaos said:
I wonder that is was stated my 300W head may have not enough power for these cabs... Can anybody explain this in a bit more detail? Somewhere I lost the red wire :-)
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I think it has to do more with cabinet efficiency; more electrical power is needed to get the same low frequency acoustic output power in one of these than a traditional multi-driver cab, e.g. 4x10. The multi-driver cab has an increase in efficiency at low frequencies due to driver coupling. (BFM where are you?)
 
#91
Codger said:
I think it has to do more with cabinet efficiency; more electrical power is needed to get the same low frequency acoustic output power in one of these than a traditional multi-driver cab, e.g. 4x10. The multi-driver cab has an increase in efficiency at low frequencies due to driver coupling. (BFM where are you?)
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Yes and no. It does take more power to drive those frequencies, the difference is that the fEARful is way more sensitive below 100Hz than just about anything else out there. So given the same power you will have better lows with a fEARful because the low end roll off isnt as prominent. Another thing to add is that where most cabs will fart out when you boost the lows, the fEARful is not limited mechanically, so it is more sensitive and has more to give.
 
#94
He decided that the margin he could make on the cabinet builds was not affording him and his family enough of a living. He has moved on to other craft work. He really is a superb craftsman and one heck of a fine guy. :cool:

I'd love to find an Anchak sub to go with my rhino hide (Line-x) 15/6/1. :D
 
#95
Jim Carr said:
He decided that the margin he could make on the cabinet builds was not affording him and his family enough of a living. He has moved on to other craft work. He really is a superb craftsman and one heck of a fine guy. :cool:

I'd love to find an Anchak sub to go with my rhino hide (Line-x) 15/6/1. :D
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That's too bad, but understandable. He was great to work with, and my 1212/6/1 is incredible.
 
#96
vbchaos said:
I wonder that is was stated my 300W head may have not enough power for these cabs... Can anybody explain this in a bit more detail? Somewhere I lost the red wire :-)
Click to expand...

The thing is, the fearfuls, or rather the particular woofer they use, can take a lot more power than a lot of cabs and actually turn it into sound. So, with a smaller amp, you may indeed be buying some amount of performance you will never hear. Some people do that all the time and call it headroom.

You can play one with any size amp you want and sound just fine, it's just that they can actually make use of the higher power stuff.

The 15" models are fairly high in sensitivity already and would go quite loud with a modest amp. Big amps just make them run even louder. The 12" models aren't that high, more like "average" sensitivity around 94-95 db. With those, you may want to double up on woofers to have a "big gig" rig.
 
#97
damn it... The 1212/6 is just TOO tempting! I looked through the schematics now and scanned the build-in-progress pages of different models. The 1212/6 will be about 95cm high, and that is ALOT. On the other hand, I saw a nice construction with tilt-back wheels and handles on top which make it very easy to move around. And 36 kg in weight is NICE for a cab like this. I measured my car also and although this cab is higher it will fit better because it is of less width and depth than my current 4x10 cab. It is 4 Ohm so it will perfectly work out with my amp and it will cover ALL gig situations I will ever face. And it looks so rock'n roll :-)
I guess, for my wet channel I will add a 12/6. The wet channel mainly includes flanging and auto-wah effects, so no deep-low power is necessary there.

Unfortunately I'll have to wait a bit to save the money. Marriage first next year :-) No doubt the girl is more important!!!

Thanks to all of you for your advise and help!
 
#99
jacojbass said:
so what cab(s) would you guys recommend for getting the most out of a mesa m9? I was thinking 12/1/12/6, but maybe 15/6 & 12.6
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A 4 ohm setup would get you the most power from your M9...

1212/6/1- nice, 4 ohm cab...good size to performance ratio.

12/6 & 12sub- modular...can just take one small cab to practices and small to medium gigs and add the sub when needed.

The 15/6 & 12/6cube is super articulate...perhaps too much for some, though others swear by it.

Believe it or not, the 15/6 on a 12sub is really good...sounds strange to mismatch like this, but the subs are tuned and crossed over correctly for it to work.

The ultimate single 4 ohm cab solution, IMO is the FEARLESS 215...one big (but not 810 big) cab that knocks over buildings and is clear as a bell
 
#100
I was able to try out Don's F215 back in September and it was absolutely wonderful. However, it's probably way more than I would need on 99.99% of my gigs. So, I am anxiously awaiting news of the F115. If it sounds like the F215, it would probably be perfect for my needs. :D
 

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