High End P Bass

[Makten]

For me, the quest is almost a contradictory one...the P-bass was/is a utilitarian instrument, where diminishing returns set in quickly. For me, the sweet spot between utility/quality is a CIC Squier CV '60s or a Matt Freeman. Or if it must be a Fender a MIM 50's/60's... YMMV.

I mostly agree, but... Even though the quality of the cheap basses are fine nowadays, they often use different wood types, have slimmer necks and inferior pickups. Not to mention super thick finishes, that can dull the tone quite a bit.

That said, my main bass since many years is a heavily modified Squier P that I chose because that specific sample sounded incredible. The other identical ones in the store didn't.
IMO the likelyhood to get "good" wood pieces are greater with the more expensive models. But if you have the opportunity to try the bass first, check out the cheap ones as well.

Oh, and of course there are duds among the expensive ones too.

 

[shojii]

I mostly agree, but... Even though the quality of the cheap basses are fine nowadays, they often use different wood types, have slimmer necks and inferior pickups. Not to mention super thick finishes, that can dull the tone quite a bit.

That said, my main bass since many years is a heavily modified Squier P that I chose because that specific sample sounded incredible. The other identical ones in the store didn't.
IMO the likelyhood to get "good" wood pieces are greater with the more expensive models. But if you have the opportunity to try the bass first, check out the cheap ones as well.

Oh, and of course there are duds among the expensive ones too.

Yes, all that you say is true. For me, regardless of an instrument's pedigree, a good solid neck is more important than the body, or how the body is finished (I think even Leo Fender agreed, as many of his pickups were tested with a neck bolted to a piece of lumber for tone testing). Here's what finally convinced me that the neck has more impact on tone that the body- at least on an electric instrument; the resonance zones of a Strat (from ASA/EAA/DAGA '99 - Dead Spots of Electric Guitars and Basses).

 

[markorbit]

High-end P Bass is for me a bit of snake oil. I've had two Pinos and the best Precision I ever had was made in the 70s.

 

[friskinator]

For me, the quest is almost a contradictory one...the P-bass was/is a utilitarian instrument, where diminishing returns set in quickly. For me, the sweet spot between utility/quality is a CIC Squier CV '60s or a Matt Freeman. Or if it must be a Fender a MIM 50's/60's... YMMV.

Agreed. I know the OP was looking for a high end P (and found one), but I've found that after years of experimentation, the diminishing returns happen quickly regarding price with P basses. I've owned everything from a Pino to a current model Squier Debut (literally the cheapest P Fender/Squier makes), and with the right setup, there really isn't a lot of difference.

 

[buldog5151bass]

I've been playing a Lull P4 for over 20 years. Other than a little time getting used to the headstock, I can't think of one even remotely negative thought.

 

[Ben Rolston]

I think a Lull or Sadowsky P would play the best, but an Olinto will sound more vintage.

Might be “objectively” true, but I like the way my Olinto plays WAY more than any Sadowsky I’ve played - pretty different design goals I think. Never played a Lull for the specific comparison

 

[Makten]

Yes, all that you say is true. For me, regardless of an instrument's pedigree, a good solid neck is more important than the body, or how the body is finished (I think even Leo Fender agreed, as many of his pickups were tested with a neck bolted to a piece of lumber for tone testing). Here's what finally convinced me that the neck has more impact on tone that the body- at least on an electric instrument; the resonance zones of a Strat (from ASA/EAA/DAGA '99 - Dead Spots of Electric Guitars and Basses).

View attachment 7226297

I don't think measuring the vibration amplitude on a surface says very much. The body is thicker and heavier, so of course it will move less. Doesn't mean it has less impact on overall resonance though. If nothing else, it acts like a filter of certain frequencies.
Edit: I agree that the neck probably is more important, though.

I switched body on a Strat I have, and it actually made a great difference (luckily to the better). Even though they were both of alder and roughly the same weight. The only reason for the switch was color, so I didn't anticipate a noticable difference in sound.

 

[Bass Viking]

I mostly agree, but... Even though the quality of the cheap basses are fine nowadays, they often use different wood types, have slimmer necks and inferior pickups. Not to mention super thick finishes, that can dull the tone quite a bit.

That said, my main bass since many years is a heavily modified Squier P that I chose because that specific sample sounded incredible. The other identical ones in the store didn't.
IMO the likelyhood to get "good" wood pieces are greater with the more expensive models. But if you have the opportunity to try the bass first, check out the cheap ones as well.

Oh, and of course there are duds among the expensive ones too.

Agreed. Run the racks. Also check the weight.

 

[logdrum]

Yeah had it for a few months now. It's an amazing instrument and I'm very happy

www.talkbass.com/threads/nbd-cliff-bordwell-scb-32.1666827

NBD thread? or you are just like me. Do it a few months later or not at all. For example who wants another Fender P thread but this one should be unique, no?

 

[nonohmic]

NBD thread? or you are just like me. Do it a few months later or not at all. For example who wants another Fender P thread but this one should be unique, no?

Yeah i put the link to the NBD thread, maybe it didn't come through. I'll try again https://www.talkbass.com/threads/nbd-cliff-bordwell-scb-32.1666827/

 

[LowWay]

Closest thing I have to a P is my Bordwell passive PJ with a toggle switch as well as VVT controls. Currently strung with TI Jazz flats and powered with bartolinis. I’ve been using it daily for the last 2 weeks working on a new project. It’s a great bass. +1 on the Bordwell recommendation.

Mines a shorty. 30”.

 

[P. Aaron]

Play with the build your bass feature on Fender's Mod Shop site. I do it A LOT and perhaps that may be what works. It's fun if anything.

 

[Acoustic356]

My Fodera O bass felt like I was cheating. It had the really great tone, but the neck profile, the weight, and everything else made it so easy to play. There wrecked things that I could technically execute on this bass that I couldn't on other P basses that I owned.

 

[Brian Patterson]

The Maruszczyk website is a treat for the eyes. Exquisite instruments - never heard one, tho.
Hope you find your dream bass...

 

[Iridescentone]

The Maruszczyk website is a treat for the eyes. Exquisite instruments - never heard one, tho.

Here's one of their P-style concoctions with a Delano 3-band active/passive setup. It's a very nice build, the pre takes the standard P bass concept up a notch or two.

 

[Pet Sounds]

I appreciate the great advice on this thread!
I decided to go ahead and get a Fodera Monarch 4 Standard Special. Can't wait to share pictures when it gets here.

I wouldn't necessarily have recommended the Fodera because of the law of diminishing returns, but I can tell you I've played one several times at a shop and it had possibly the best neck I've ever felt. Congratulations, and please let us know how you like it!

 

[chris_b]

My Mike Lull PJ5 has been my #1 bass for 14 years. If I lost this one I'd buy another in a heartbeat.

You've got to find the right one. They aren't all the same. A friend was selling his Lull P5 and I gave it a spin, but it didn't feel right, didn't "speak" to me at all.

 

[Rifflection]

I'm curious what you guys are referring to when it comes to diminishing returns. The Fodera Monarch I just got comes with dual split Fodera/Duncan Dual Coils. I'm going to replace my other active bass with this one.

I'm still going to pursue a pure P bass and enjoy the Monarch when she gets here on Friday.

I'm concerned about the difficulty in getting a Mike Lull - but I think that's the direction I'm going to go.

I appreciate the info in the thread, in particular the conversations about the importance of the neck.

I'm going to go the Mike Lull P4 route or the Maruszczyk Jake, I feel like the Pino is worth it but between these three I think the choice is clear.

Now to find one or just order a custom and wait.

 

[Micha84]

I'm curious what you guys are referring to when it comes to diminishing returns.

The basic idea is that the concept of "you get what you pay for" only is true up to a certain point, when increase in price doesn't reflect increase in quality anymore. For example, you take a $500 instrument. When you compare it to a $1,500 you'll notice exactly what the $1,000 extra could get you. Now compare the $1,500 instrument to a $2,500 dollar instrument, which is the same amount of increase in price but not the same kind of increase in instrument quality.

If you agree with it or not is another matter.

 

[Makten]