Looks like that 5th string is ready to fall off the fingerboard. Did you check your string spacing?
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Hipshot KickAss bridge
- Thread starter dark_nicely
- Start date
Greatest bridge ever. Adjusts any way you need it, extra parts for shorter intonation screws and saddle height to fit any bass. Adjusts to 20mm string spacing in a traditional 5 hole mount. Easy install.
All the strings are perfectly lined up over the pickup pole pieces, it’s all in the camera angle and shadows...
String spacing is fine.
I was more referring to the neck, but I can see in the second picture that everything looks great. Awesome pictures!
Hi all, I just bought one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H7UZY7E/ref=twister_B07GY7828V?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
My only concern is that I have an Ibanez GSR200 bass which has only 4 bol instead of 5 as the Fender... reading the Amazon reviews I saw one guy who has the same bass and installed properly the bridge perhaps I have to drill new holes. Anything else to worry about? Has anyone changes this on a non-fit bridge bass?
My only concern is that I have an Ibanez GSR200 bass which has only 4 bol instead of 5 as the Fender... reading the Amazon reviews I saw one guy who has the same bass and installed properly the bridge perhaps I have to drill new holes. Anything else to worry about? Has anyone changes this on a non-fit bridge bass?
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Update:
I am attaching the images of the work I did on my bridge.
Conclusion:
The bridge is heavy, seems good quality BUT, it is not the right bridge for this kind of bass sadly. besides the new holes I did, the bridge is almost at the edge of the body I can feel the outgoing at the end (I hope this could be understandable) And the most important thing, the action of the string are too high and I can't go down more than 2.5mm in all the strings, so if you want to set the proper high, preserving the curvature of the fingerboard, you will get 2.5-3mm on the G string and 3-3.5mm on the E string which is insane for my taste..
If you left all saddles at the original position (I mean, no curvature) you'll get 2mm in all strings...
I had to back to the original bridge, anyway, I will use this new one with a future fender style bass I'm going to buying.
Oh another thing: intonation is a pain, you need to change the screw and the spring for the 4th string, it is too small...
PD: English is not my native language, I hope my conclusion is pretty clear.
I am attaching the images of the work I did on my bridge.
Conclusion:
The bridge is heavy, seems good quality BUT, it is not the right bridge for this kind of bass sadly. besides the new holes I did, the bridge is almost at the edge of the body I can feel the outgoing at the end (I hope this could be understandable) And the most important thing, the action of the string are too high and I can't go down more than 2.5mm in all the strings, so if you want to set the proper high, preserving the curvature of the fingerboard, you will get 2.5-3mm on the G string and 3-3.5mm on the E string which is insane for my taste..
If you left all saddles at the original position (I mean, no curvature) you'll get 2mm in all strings...
I had to back to the original bridge, anyway, I will use this new one with a future fender style bass I'm going to buying.
Oh another thing: intonation is a pain, you need to change the screw and the spring for the 4th string, it is too small...
PD: English is not my native language, I hope my conclusion is pretty clear.
Attachments
Last edited:
I just installed the bridge on my MiJ Jaguar. It fit right in but I have to raise the action a LOT to get it playable. Am I missing something?
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,006
- 1
- 31,700
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
Indeed I did. That's what I find strange; If the Low ones are so low to be playable, why include them?
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,006
- 1
- 31,700
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
Because different basses have different geometries.
Perhaps there’s a shim in your neck pocket?
The action is not set for anything at the factory.
Some of the saddles may even be reversed. (check the slots)
Workers just assemble and toss in the box.
NO bridge will be right...never assume otherwise...
Some bridge plates are thin, some are thick, some bridges are elevated, some are not, some necks sit high in the pocket, some don't. some boards are thick, some are not.... Not two designs are the same logistically...
Some of the saddles may even be reversed. (check the slots)
Workers just assemble and toss in the box.
NO bridge will be right...never assume otherwise...
Some bridge plates are thin, some are thick, some bridges are elevated, some are not, some necks sit high in the pocket, some don't. some boards are thick, some are not.... Not two designs are the same logistically...
It appears the KA is a bit longer front to back than the BA II.
And from what I’ve read the hipshot is even heavier than the Quan.
I’m considering replacing the very worn gold hardware (bridge,knobs,tuners) on my Peavey Palaedium with black. (Based on just replacing 2 of the knobs with some black ones i had laying around.)
In the process,I would welcome a lighter bridge than the original one. The bass is only 8 1/2 pounds,but it feels like all the weight is concentrated at the bridge end. Wish Hipshot made an aluminum version of the KA.
Aluminium would completely defeat the purpose of making a high mass bridge to improve tone and sustain.
I’ve had very good results with using aluminum hipshot bridges on 2 of my Rickenbacker basses.
I’ve compared them to a friend’s Rick that has the brass version. I found the brass version to be duller sounding,and the weight difference was significantly bad (for me.)
Since Hipshot’s KA bridge only comes in the heavy zinc form, it’s a moot point.
Hammersmith was making aluminum baii clones at one point but I don’t think they were selling them separately.
While online shopping today, I found a new black KA bridge for $44 shippped,so it’s ordered. 
Going to try it with the standard brass inserts,but have a feeling i may be going for the optional stainess steel set, if the new bridge works out.
Going to try it with the standard brass inserts,but have a feeling i may be going for the optional stainess steel set, if the new bridge works out.
Are these made in Korea now? The earlier posts in the thread sound like they originally manufactured them in the USA.
I don’t think they were ever made in USA. As it shows on their website, the Kickass is made in Korea, and I believe this is because it is molded. Hipshot does machining, not casting/molding. So the A/B style bridges are made in the NY factory, whereas the Kickass is made in Korea.
Hey everyone - some thread revival as I can't find the answer to my question.
I currently have a 3 hole LQ Badass. I see mention that the Kickass saddle can be purchased as separate items and that they are compatible with BA 1 and 2.
Are they also compatible with BA 3 does anyone know?
I currently have a 3 hole LQ Badass. I see mention that the Kickass saddle can be purchased as separate items and that they are compatible with BA 1 and 2.
Are they also compatible with BA 3 does anyone know?
