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Hofner-(not just Beatle Basses)-Group Part 2

Does anyone use the 500/1 as their primary instrument? I own a real nice Ignition bass that I bought last year and honestly, I don't have a use for it. I mean not for my primary bass. I feel more comfortable with my Jazz or my L2k or even my Ray34. But I do love it, the ignition, and it has a place among its peers.:D
 

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Those caverns look amazing!

Does anyone use the 500/1 as their primary instrument? I own a real nice Ignition bass that I bought last year and honestly, I don't have a use for it. I mean not for my primary bass. I feel more comfortable with my Jazz or my L2k or even my Ray34. But I do love it, the ignition, and it has a place among its peers.:D

Yes, I use it as my primary bass. Infact, it's the ONLY bass I use. Just love it. I have others, but none of them compare to a hofner.
I'll occasionally go on a two day stint of playing the other basses, then return to the hofner for another month.
Definately my main bass.
 
Has anyone ever done this with their hofner electronics?



Master volume and Master tone, then using the switches to select the pickups.

Is this an easy mod? Does it expand the range of tones?





I've actually been considering just disconnecting the bridge pup and wiring a volume and tone control to the neck, the bridge pup is useless to me. (which is why I may move it up to cavern spacing and mode the controls)









If you have more, I'd absolutely love to see them.


I ment 'see more' of others. But here's some *****ImageUploadedByTalkBass1393966853.298475.jpgyImageUploadedByTalkBass1393966908.715781.jpgImageUploadedByTalkBass1393966934.148224.jpg

Oh. And livings the pickup to cavern spacing will change the sound. Be aware the pickup on the 2 models are different. And I heard the spacing on different caverns may change as well. So if u plan to install a pickguard, best to get that before u move the pickup. Good luck
 
PS. My 3 pickup club is volume and tone knobs, the three switches are for each pickup, so I guess it can be done. I rarely use the bridge pickup, and when I do the volume is almost off. There we a few songs that sound good with the treble boost, but for the most part I don't use it. With the 3 pickup, since I have the tone knob, I do use it more often, but again not much.

Plus 1ImageUploadedByTalkBass1393982944.299656.jpg

This wouldn't post with the last set.
 
PS. My 3 pickup club is volume and tone knobs, the three switches are for each pickup, so I guess it can be done. I rarely use the bridge pickup, and when I do the volume is almost off. There we a few songs that sound good with the treble boost, but for the most part I don't use it. With the 3 pickup, since I have the tone knob, I do use it more often, but again not much.

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This wouldn't post with the last set.

Thanks for the info.

After asking questions and seeing various photos, I think my best bet is to literally eye it up.
A max distance would be the width of a pickup cutout in the pickguard, if I want the tone more mellow, move it up is all.
Definately gonna cut my own pickguard, no way I'm spending 100 dollars on something I could easily make from warmoth pearl for about $40.

I think the "best" would be just a hair closer together than the width of the pickup cutouts. I've been collecting photos of McCartney's hofner, zooming in, then straightening them to get an accurate ratio, but not of them are straight on. All at an angle. So it leaves me with my previous option to just eye it up. (I really hope the pickup wire is long enough.)
 
I just returned to these forums after giving up, shortly after getting my Ignition around September 2013. I did not find this group then. I played a Greco Violin Bass in a band in the 1970's and, when I saw Hofner come up with the Icons and Ignitions I decided I had to have one again, this time with Hofner on the headstock!

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My Indonesian Ignition has been almost perfect. The bridge is the only poorly made part. I just replaced it with a German bridge. The shape of the top is slightly "fatter" on the Ignition, which requires some work, and the top portion and threaded studs must be cut down 1/8". I have the woodworking tools and experience so the work is easy. The result is a much better, ebony wood bridge. The soft wood and cut fret rests of the original are not up to par with the rest of the instrument. In fact, my Icon bridge had begun falling apart by de laminating at the G string. The German bridge cost $39.99 online. I also put LaBella Flatwounds on the bass the first week of ownership, and just put teacup knows (keeping the black ones stored I the case - no intent to deceive here) on it.
 
Thanks Steve. You knocked me off my feet with your bass pics!!

This bass I posted before is a special one I'll explain more when I I get home. Here's another pic.



incase_zps86ae6469.jpg




and a pick of my late 90s Reissue. I like the Darker one better, the pick up spacing lends to a better sound IMO.



HofnerCavern021.jpg


Peacefrog. Are u home yet? I was waiting for more details on ur caverns. Re-issue and CT both, right?
 
Sorry Steve, I nearly forgot that I didn't follow up. Yes, you are correct. The CT is on top, done in a custom shop violin finish. I had always wanted this color and pounced. The bottom is the late 90s reissue and guess what....the one on top plays just as nice, if not better. It also has rugby tuners. It's could be the best Hofner I've ever had.

The late 90s reissue is a great bass, it was ordered in custom from Germany when they weren't even doing a run of Caverns, was made with Hugh McDonald's. IT's great but the neck on the other feels a bit better and doesn't feedback as much as this one as the reissue.
 
Hey Peacefrog. Thanks, very nice basses. And I like the tweed case too. Funny thing, I do not have feedback issues with my German Basses. But you are right about the necks. The CVs (at least mine) have faster necks/lower action. My 500/1 deluxe rosewood has low action, but the chunkyst neck. So, as you would expect, they all are great, but have something special about them. All fun to play and all sound amazing.
 
Hey Peacefrog. Thanks, very nice basses. And I like the tweed case too. Funny thing, I do not have feedback issues with my German Basses. But you are right about the necks. The CVs (at least mine) have faster necks/lower action. My 500/1 deluxe rosewood has low action, but the chunkyst neck. So, as you would expect, they all are great, but have something special about them. All fun to play and all sound amazing.

Am I correct in saying, thickness goes like this (from thin to thick):
Icon
Contemporary
German
German Fatneck

After playing an icon and moving to a CT, the neck was a lot different, much fatter. (I got used to it quickly because I prefer fatter necks)
So does the german 500/1 have even more girth than the CT?
 
Thanks Willie. I've never seen one of these. Very nice.

And Ivan, my 500/1 neck if fatter than my CTs and my German 500/2. I think it may have been based on the '62, but not sure. But I don't think it's a fat-neck either. I've seen/tried fatter. Who knows. From what I've read, sometimes hofner deviates from the specs.
 
Violin bass, with factory case, and it will be here later this week. Pics when I get it.

Ordered teacup knobs and LaBella flats, also on the way.

I have always played "odd" basses-12 years in bar bands in the '60's-70's, using a '50's Danelectro Longhorn-and I think I will love the Hofner.

Well, I was right...

DSCN0318_zpsff9c7d7f.jpg


This is an Icon, older than the Ignition and a beautiful looking and playing bass...putting LaBella flats on it this week...

Got the LaBellas on it and the teacup knobs, still fine tuning the intonation, but the sound is amazing.

Can I get a Hofner Bass Club number, please?

Can I get a number? Thank you!


Mark
 
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