Hofner-(not just Beatle Basses)-Group Part 2

[SteveCS]

So here we are with a 'new to me' Ignition Club in Sunburst and I am very impressed.
First-off, it came with what looks like a pretty decent 'Hofner' branded gig bag:

For the most part the finish is excellent. The gloss is really deep and the dark outline of the burst is far more cherry than the dark black/brown in the vendor pictures, so I am a happy bunny:

The flame on the back is also a lot more prominent than it appears in the vendor pictures, so again pleased with this:

The tuning machines have been upgraded to super-smooth Grover 18:1 Sta-Tite with nickel pegs and long posts. Originals were not included but I don't think that matters:

The fretwork is very impressive - no sharp ends, no high or low spots and all beautifully polished, with slot ends filled and finished over. Hofner have really knocked it out of the park here:

Finally, the protective liner between bridge and top is still in place, so it is obvious this bass hasn't really seen much action:

I guess at the price point there are bound to be a few 'things', and so it is:
There is a nasty ripple in the finish around the neck joint. Not really bad and only visible under certain conditions, but it stands out against what is an otherwise flawless finish:

The cut of the pickguard is a little wonky , again around the neck joint. It is minor, totally forgivable and probably an easy fix with a sanding block:

And finally the curse of pretty much all 'budget' instruments but another easy fix - the nut is cut far too high:

As for the sounds, well I don't konw. First up I was hoping the installed strings would be flats but they are zingy rounds. Then I found this in the case:

Nothing in the LaBella wrapper, but I opened up the Hofner pack and sure enough the black tapes are in there. Then I have to suss out how the controls work -

 

[steve_rolfeca]

So here we are with a 'new to me' Ignition Club in Sunburst and I am very impressed.
First-off, it came with what looks like a pretty decent 'Hofner' branded gig bag:
View attachment 4946357
For the most part the finish is excellent. The gloss is really deep and the dark outline of the burst is far more cherry than the dark black/brown in the vendor pictures, so I am a happy bunny:
View attachment 4946358
The flame on the back is also a lot more prominent than it appears in the vendor pictures, so again pleased with this:
View attachment 4946376
The tuning machines have been upgraded to super-smooth Grover 18:1 Sta-Tite with nickel pegs and long posts. Originals were not included but I don't think that matters:
View attachment 4946360The fretwork is very impressive - no sharp ends, no high or low spots and all beautifully polished, with slot ends filled and finished over. Hofner have really knocked it out of the park here:
View attachment 4946398Finally, the protective liner between bridge and top is still in place, so it is obvious this bass hasn't really seen much action:
View attachment 4946375

I guess at the price point there are bound to be a few 'things', and so it is:
There is a nasty ripple in the finish around the neck joint. Not really bad and only visible under certain conditions, but it stands out against what is an otherwise flawless finish:
View attachment 4946397
The cut of the pickguard is a little wonky , again around the neck joint. It is minor, totally forgivable and probably an easy fix with a sanding block:
View attachment 4946368 And finally the curse of pretty much all 'budget' instruments but another easy fix - the nut is cut far too high:
View attachment 4946372

As for the sounds, well I don't konw. First up I was hoping the installed strings would be flats but they are zingy rounds. Then I found this in the case:
View attachment 4946404Nothing in the LaBella wrapper, but I opened up the Hofner pack and sure enough the black tapes are in there. Then I have to suss out how the controls work -

I’d be curious to know more about the fretwork on other people’s Ignitions.

My local dealer had bought a bunch of B-stock Ignitions and Ignition Pros’s. Without exception, they all had nasty fret sprout, and the fret tops were unpolished and poorly shaped.

Dollars to donuts, the upgraded tuners and the fretwork on yours were done by a tech for the previous owner…

It’s not an absolute necessity, but I think you’ll be pleased if you install a Zero Glide bone nut with the included zero fret.

I did expect it to make much of a difference, but it did. Particularly the open E string, which now has more authority, and matches the other strings.

 

[mongo2]

Please show us the new control panel. What values and types of pots did you use?

I actually lifted the control plate of my Epiphone Allen Woody Sig Rumblekat bass and wired it into the Hofner Ignition Club bass. The Epiphone control plate is a bit larger than the Hofner plate so I had to drill some new holes for it to fit. The potentiometer values are whatever the Epiphone used, IIRC they were something unusual like 320K. I replaced the gold tophat knobs with small black chickenhead knobs.

I don't have a picture but it looks like a Hofner Ignition Club bass with an Epiphone control plate.

 

[SteveCS]

...
Dollars to donuts, the upgraded tuners and the fretwork on yours were done by a tech for the previous owner…

It’s not an absolute necessity, but I think you’ll be pleased if you install a Zero Glide bone nut with the included zero fret
...

Possobly right about the fretwork. I hadn't thought about it that way because tuners is something I would always do myself, and if I sent it off for fretwork I would also expect the nut slots to be made good as part of the setup process.

On the Zero Glide nut, I can see the attraction of a zero fret on these instruments, but can't see the point of bone as that part is only a string guide...

 

[steve_rolfeca]

...On the Zero Glide nut, I can see the attraction of a zero fret on these instruments, but can't see the point of bone as that part is only a string guide...

Take a peek at the installation video, here:
ZS-18 Slotted Replacement Nut for Basses

The plan drawing in the opening shot of the video is worth a thousand words- the zero fret sits half on the end of the fingerboard, and half on a little shelf that's machined into the bone nut blank.

That's how they're able to place the zero fret correctly for good intonation. It's also how the nut material gets to indirectly contribute to the sound of the open string...

FYI, the ZS-18 also happens to be the model that fits the Ignition.

 

[SteveCS]

Take a peek at the installation video, here:
ZS-18 Slotted Replacement Nut for Basses

The plan drawing in the opening shot of the video is worth a thousand words- the zero fret sits half on the end of the fingerboard, and half on a little shelf that's machined into the bone nut blank.

That's how they're able to place the zero fret correctly for good intonation. It's also how the nut material gets to indirectly contribute to the sound of the open string...

FYI, the ZS-18 also happens to be the model that fits the Ignition.

Thanks Steve, I'll take a look later.

 

[54 RPM]

So here we are with a 'new to me' Ignition Club in Sunburst and I am very impressed.

Nice one, congrats !

Still waiting for the Verythin to be back in Thomann’s stock to join the club... 10/13 weeks they say...

 

[Doctor Intrepid]

Not sure if I posted this pic of my HCT.

 

[SteveCS]

Not sure if I posted this pic of my HCT.

View attachment 4946561

That's one heck of a bridge tilt for intonation compensation!! Since putting the LaBella tapes on this morning and doing a setup my bridge ended up running back the other way (the saddle frets still follow the conventional path):

 

[Doctor Intrepid]

That's one heck of a bridge tilt for intonation compensation!! Since putting the LaBella tapes on this morning and doing a setup my bridge ended up running back the other way (the saddle frets still follow the conventional path):
View attachment 4948612

Yeah, I've having some problems getting it to intonate properly. I played out on Saturday and left the G string alone most of the night above the 7th fret.

 

[SteveCS]

Yeah, I've having some problems getting it to intonate properly. I played out on Saturday and left the G string alone most of the night above the 7th fret.

Yes, it looks very 'crook'. Something I noticed doing mine, and after cutting the nut down, is that as the bridge moves back it also starts to move down the arch of the top which in turn lowers the action. In my case, because I had been 'ambitious' with the nut, the open string actually contacted the 1st fret. I could not intonate without raising the action just a little first (treble side only).

This is all new to me as I've never had to intonate a fretted instrument with a floating bridge, arched top and 'fixed' saddles before! But I got there and is it pretty good. I worked hard on the E and G strings - the A and D just about (almost) fell into place.

 

[markjazzbassist]

Anyone compared the rotosound trubass tapes to the pyramid flats? I got the pyramids on now but they get a little clanky/thin when you hop to the D and G string. I love the pyramids on all my fenders, but I’m wondering if maybe the Roto Trubass is what I need to combat that thinness. Thoughts?

 

[DrSteve]

Since my first Hofner years ago, I've only used Thomastik-Infeld flats. Recommended by, and installed with setup by the tech, they've been great. I did notice a change in the D & G strings when I switched from Markbass to Genzler. So play with your amp settings and maybe you'll be happy with the results. Otherwise, I do recommend the TIs.

Note: My experience is with German and HCT, Violin and Club basses. Not sure how the Icon/Ignition would respond, but I suspect the outcome would be similar.

 

[SJLee]

Since my first Hofner years ago, I've only used Thomastik-Infeld flats. Recommended by, and installed with setup by the tech, they've been great. I did notice a change in the D & G strings when I switched from Markbass to Genzler. So play with your amp settings and maybe you'll be happy with the results. Otherwise, I do recommend the TIs.

Note: My experience is with German and HCT, Violin and Club basses. Not sure how the Icon/Ignition would respond, but I suspect the outcome would be similar.

I also use TI flats and have been completely satisfied with them. In fact, they just continue to sound better with age.

 

[Pimpernel Smith]

im confused because I thought the treble off bass on rhythm would yield the most bass least treble but it seems on my bass that’s not the case.

New-time Hofner owners are always confused with the control panel. They are counter intuitive.
As you look down from your playing position try McCartney's setting:
The left and right switches are up, and, the middle switch is down.

This puts the bass just on the neck pick up, which is what the vast majority of Hofner players do. It will give you the classic McCartney tone when your strings settle in.

 

[SJLee]

Love the four knob tone and volume controls on my 58 RI.

 

[Doctor Intrepid]

Love the four knob tone and volume controls on my 58 RI.

View attachment 4949868

That 58 RI is a beauty!

I am customizing my 68 a bit, but in a way that is completely reversible in order to maintain the vintage value. I may get it done this weekend and then post pics.

 

[SJLee]

That 58 RI is a beauty!

I am customizing my 68 a bit, but in a way that is completely reversible in order to maintain the vintage value. I may get it done this weekend and then post pics.

Would love to see photos of the work you have done.

 

[markjazzbassist]

New-time Hofner owners are always confused with the control panel. They are counter intuitive.
As you look down from your playing position try McCartney's setting:
The left and right switches are up, and, the middle switch is down.

This puts the bass just on the neck pick up, which is what the vast majority of Hofner players do. It will give you the classic McCartney tone when your strings settle in.

If you read my post that’s what I did. Except it wasn’t working the way it’s supposed to. I have just bass on, but it’s a thinner tone than Bass On Treble On but volume 2 down all the way. Which doesn’t make sense

 

[SteveCS]

New-time Hofner owners are always confused with the control panel.

If you read my post that’s what I did. Except it wasn’t working the way it’s supposed to. I have just bass on, but it’s a thinner tone than Bass On Treble On but volume 2 down all the way. Which doesn’t make sense

I think I'm getting the measure of this thing, and I'm starting to think perhaps the English labels for the switches were lost in translation!

• With all switches 'up' (Bass 'Off', Treble 'Off', 'Solo') the volumes are essentially like a Jazz bass but without the tone control;
• Bass 'Off', Treble 'Off', 'Rhythm' the volumes work the same but the overall output level is reduced;
  
• Bass 'On' + Treble 'Off' selects just the neck pickup AND applies a filter like having the tone control backed off almost all the way - it is a very deep cut thanks to that 0.1uF cap;
• Treble 'On' + Bass 'Off' selects the Bridge pickup AND applies a filter that blocks the bottom end. This filter interacts with the Solo/Rhythm switch to block a little more bass in Rhythm mode, hence sounding thinner;
  
• Treble 'On' and Bass 'On' acts as a mute. Bridge pickup goes through the 'Bass' switch in the 'OFF' position to get to the Treble (bass cut) filter, and neck pickup goes via the 'Treble' switch in the 'OFF' position to get to the Bass (treble cut) filter! So with both switches 'OFF' there is no path to the output.

In this diagram the pickup at the top is the neck, bottom is bridge
So I think 'Treble On' actually means 'Treble Filter Engaged' (not treble pickup on), and 'Bass On' actually means 'Bass Filter Engaged'. The fact that the switches also solo one or the other of the pickups at the same as engaging the filters might even be seen as collateral damage!