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Hofner-(not just Beatle Basses)-Group Part 2

I think I'm getting the measure of this thing, and I'm starting to think perhaps the English labels for the switches were lost in translation!
  • With all switches 'up' (Bass 'Off', Treble 'Off', 'Solo') the volumes are essentially like a Jazz bass but without the tone control;
  • Bass 'Off', Treble 'Off', 'Rhythm' the volumes work the same but the overall output level is reduced;
  • Bass 'On' + Treble 'Off' selects just the neck pickup AND applies a filter like having the tone control backed off almost all the way - it is a very deep cut thanks to that 0.1uF cap;
  • Treble 'On' + Bass 'Off' selects the Bridge pickup AND applies a filter that blocks the bottom end. This filter interacts with the Solo/Rhythm switch to block a little more bass in Rhythm mode, hence sounding thinner;
  • Treble 'On' and Bass 'On' acts as a mute. Bridge pickup goes through the 'Bass' switch in the 'OFF' position to get to the Treble (bass cut) filter, and neck pickup goes via the 'Treble' switch in the 'OFF' position to get to the Bass (treble cut) filter! So with both switches 'OFF' there is no path to the output.
In this diagram the pickup at the top is the neck, bottom is bridge
So I think 'Treble On' actually means 'Treble Filter Engaged' (not treble pickup on), and 'Bass On' actually means 'Bass Filter Engaged'. The fact that the switches also solo one or the other of the pickups at the same as engaging the filters might even be seen as collateral damage!
View attachment 4950459

Thank you!!!!mine is wired differently then. Bass on treble off is the bridge pickup, treble on bass off is the neck pickup. The rest is the same though, volume 1 is neck pickup, volume 2 bridge. Rhythm solo switch works as it should. Again mine is a 1965 maybe someone just messed up back in the day on this one wiring wise. I’m able to get the same tonal things, just works differently.


Just did some more searching, volume 2 should be neck, volume 1 bridge, so mine needs to be wired differently. I’m going to solder it correctly now and see how it sounds. Thank u everyone!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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I got so frustrated with mine that I rewired it so it's logical. Treble switch up turns on bridge pickup and engages high-pass capacitor for only the bridge. Bass switch up turns on neck pickup and engages low-pass capacitor. Both switches down = mute. Pots and rhythm switch stay the same.

It was too hard to keep reminding myself that the Bass switch controlled the treble pickup and vice-versa.
 
Got the bass back. The mods look great and the pickup sounds great. No more feedback.

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Here’s my CT Club modded with Paul surround to cavern spacing, teacups.
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I’m REALLY disappointed in the Pyramid Gold flats, so, what does everyone use besides them?

I’m not crazy about LaBella as a company and GHS flats, my long scale fav, is too unbalanced in short scale.
So, maybe I’ll be going with D’Addario tapes?
Thanks!
 
Here’s my CT Club modded with Paul surround to cavern spacing, teacups.
View attachment 4953309

I’m REALLY disappointed in the Pyramid Gold flats, so, what does everyone use besides them?

I’m not crazy about LaBella as a company and GHS flats, my long scale fav, is too unbalanced in short scale.
So, maybe I’ll be going with D’Addario tapes?
Thanks!

looks cool where did you get the pickup surround?

I found GHS precision flats were balanced fine, I never had issues with them on another SS bass. Funny thing I’m finding the pyramids might not work for me either. On a single coil fender they help to take the brightness and sustain by giving more thump and decay. The hofner bass on is all low end and just too dark/thumpy. I’m gonna try roto trubass tapes, but am thinking if I don’t like them then the Thomastik Infeld flats might do it. They are a little more focused of a sound. The JF324H set is for the hofner, the regular short scale set I guess the e string is too big so I’ve read
 
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I got it on eBay, a dude in Argentina.
TI are too floppy for me, so they’re out, too.
The Pyramid E was not only dead as a doornail but also has a chorus-y overtone to it. I lowered my pickups all the way and installed the string about 4 times and it’s still awful. If they won’t do anything about it I’ll have to try something else.
 
I got it on eBay, a dude in Argentina.
TI are too floppy for me, so they’re out, too.
The Pyramid E was not only dead as a doornail but also has a chorus-y overtone to it. I lowered my pickups all the way and installed the string about 4 times and it’s still awful. If they won’t do anything about it I’ll have to try something else.
This might be useful:
 
I got it on eBay, a dude in Argentina.
TI are too floppy for me, so they’re out, too.
The Pyramid E was not only dead as a doornail but also has a chorus-y overtone to it. I lowered my pickups all the way and installed the string about 4 times and it’s still awful. If they won’t do anything about it I’ll have to try something else.

long scale I agree but short scale pyramids tension is 30 lbs per string and TI is 30-34 lbs per string, so could be a little more tense but won’t be less than pyramid.
 
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Yeah also make sure the string isn’t twisted, don’t put it in the tailpiece then tighten. Put it in the tuner, get it wrapped around a couple of times and just before it’s too short then put it in the tailpiece. Chorusing can be from too high of pickups, or a twisted string.


I thought that, too. I’ve taken it off and re installed many times now.

I also did the bridge sanding mod this morning. Not better. It was already making good contact but I figured I should try.

I also put my fat finger on the headstock, I don’t know why, it didn’t help.

If I don’t get a replacement E I’m going to just order another brand set and chalk it up.

Thanks for all the help! If you want my old Pyramids, PM me, lol.

Edit~~~A replacement E string is on its' way to me. I hope I can manage installation correctly this time.
 
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I got it on eBay, a dude in Argentina.
TI are too floppy for me, so they’re out, too.
The Pyramid E was not only dead as a doornail but also has a chorus-y overtone to it. I lowered my pickups all the way and installed the string about 4 times and it’s still awful. If they won’t do anything about it I’ll have to try something else.
Hey, Dave.

I've mentioned it previously on this thread, but aside from fitting the bridge base to match the curvature of the top and changing the strings, two other mods were significant when it came to getting a good, solid open E out of my Ignition:
  • Fixing a resonant buzz in the tailpiece. If the tailpiece has loose parts or a broken weld on the lyre, it can affect tone and sustain. Tightening a fastener or putting a small dab of epoxy on the back of the lyre is usually all it takes.
  • Fitting a Zero Glide nut, with the zero fret.
Odd resonances like my tailpiece issue are common on arch-top hollowbodies.

Thankfully Hofners don't have tuneomatic bridges, but it's still worth giving yours a good once-over, including inside via the body.

Something as small as a hanging splinter or a loose wire slapping against something can cause odd artifacts. There's generally no surgery needed- cut off any unnecessary junk and vacuum out dust or chunks, then use dabs of glue and/or twist ties, tie wraps, etc., to make sure that the wiring is secure if needed.

Getting a good look inside is relatively easy on Ignitions, because of the pickup cutouts. It's harder on German models and HCT's because the pickups are surface-mount, but there are lots of cheap tools kicking around these days. A dental mirror with an extending handle is perfect for peering through the control panel cutout.

If you do this sort of thing a lot, you can get a flexible fiber-optic USB inspection camera online for under $30. Overkill, but they're fun to play with, and the companion app will produce cool pics for future NBD posts...
 
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Thanks for all the help, everyone. The replacement came and I just strung it up and… it’s the same chorusing, lol.


I’m going to put the OEM E on there to see if it does it, too, but I lowered the pups as much as possible and even raised the bridge on the E side so I’m really reluctant to believe the pups are too close.

As much as I dislike LaBella customer service I think I’ll just order their Beatle bass set. I liked them on a violin I had 10+ years ago. Or D’Addario tapes.
 
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Thanks for all the help, everyone. The replacement came and I just strung it up and… it’s the same chorusing, lol.


I’m going to put the OEM E on there to see if it does it, too, but I lowered the pups as much as possible and even raised the bridge on the E side so I’m really reluctant to believe the pups are too close.

Any body want a barely used set of Pyramids plus a new A, D, G and 4 minutes used E for cheap?

As much as I dislike LaBella customer service I think I’ll just order their Beatle bass set. I liked them on a violin I had 10+ years ago. Or D’Addario tapes.
I recall a 'chorus' like sound I encountered on a bass decades ago. The fault was found to be incorrect intonation.
 
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