Hofner-(not just Beatle Basses)-Group Part 2

[davelowell2]

I put the OEM E round on and I think I hear it.
I’m going to put the bass down for a few days and come back with fresh ears, lol. Sorry for the hijacking.

 

[SJLee]

‘58

 

[Doctor Intrepid]

58

View attachment 4956598

 

[markjazzbassist]

Are there any other straps (besides the hofner leather one) that work to fit under the neck? The hofner strap that larger section keeps sliding around and I have to continually adjust it

 

[KevinDBassist]

Just installed the German control panel in my Contemporary . It sounds so much better and lively ! I also reinstalled a new set of Labella black nylon tapewounds . The first set of Labella tapes had a few dud strings in the set and these are awesome . Labella did send me a replacement set . I personally prefer the feel , tension , and tone of these tapes over the Pyramids on this bass .

 

[DrSteve]

Do you notice an adjustment in volume balance between the two pickups using the German panel vs the HCT panel?

On my HCT, the bridge pickup is way louder than the neck pickup. Or, maybe it's the Bass Off function of my control panel. But when I use Bass Off, I turn the volume of the bridge pickup all the way down (off), and it's still way louder than the bass with my typical; Solo, Bass On, Treble Off setting. Plus it's a bit twangy. I only use it for a couple of songs, and even then I often hesitate and just leave the switches alone.

I also have an HCT Cavern. Do you, or any of our Hofner friends, know if this control-panel also fits the Cavern? Not sure if the Diamond pickups require a different panel. Also note, the pickups are not as hot as my other HCT and the Bass Off blends well when I use it. Not twangy at all.

Thanks.

 

[Doctor Intrepid]

Do you notice an adjustment in volume balance between the two pickups using the German panel vs the HCT panel?

On my HCT, the bridge pickup is way louder than the neck pickup. Or, maybe it's the Bass Off function of my control panel. But when I use Bass Off, I turn the volume of the bridge pickup all the way down (off), and it's still way louder than the bass with my typical; Solo, Bass On, Treble Off setting. Plus it's a bit twangy. I only use it for a couple of songs, and even then I often hesitate and just leave the switches alone.

I also have an HCT Cavern. Do you, or any of our Hofner friends, know if this control-panel also fits the Cavern? Not sure if the Diamond pickups require a different panel. Also note, the pickups are not as hot as my other HCT and the Bass Off blends well when I use it. Not twangy

A German control panel should fit the Cavern HCT.

 

[KLINCOLNS]

Just installed the German control panel in my Contemporary . It sounds so much better and lively ! I also reinstalled a new set of Labella black nylon tapewounds . The first set of Labella tapes had a few dud strings in the set and these are awesome . Labella did send me a replacement set . I personally prefer the feel , tension , and tone of these tapes over the Pyramids on this bass . View attachment 4957156

I agree with you on this. How do you like the string tension compared with the pyramids?

 

[SJLee]

 

[KevinDBassist]

I agree with you on this. How do you like the string tension compared with the pyramids?

I really like the tension and feel . It feels much lighter than the Pyramids . The strings tone is more even across the board to my ears also .

 

[SteveCS]

The LaBella tapes are on, and I also cut a new bone nut - 3 guitar-sized blanks from Amazon for £5.94 = less than £2.00 each. I also increased the spacing a little whilst I was at it:

The cheap plastic OEM nuts on the Ignition really are bad - they aren't even cut from a solid lump. Typically I would keep original parts 'just in case' but this one is headed straight for the recycling bin!

 

[davelowell2]

I put on a set of D’Addario tape wound, medium scale. ETB92M. Awesome. Raised the pickups, no funny sounds. I guess the Pyramid’s just aren’t for me. I also have a light LaBella set coming, just in case. Thanks, everyone.

 

[bikemusic]

I bought those Pyramids from davelowell and put the E on my Cavern Club. First impressions are it sounds very similar to the well used LaBella 760 it replaced (which broke). i.e. kind of dead. But I don't hear any warbling overtones and they say that dead sound is normal for a new Pyramid Gold. I had a D'Addario Chrome E on there for a week, and it still had much more of a metallic "zing" than either the old LaBellas or the new Pyramids. When new the Chromes sounded like roundwounds but they faded after a few days, although nowhere close to an old school "thump".

 

[WannaBeatle]

I bought those Pyramids from davelowell and put the E on my Cavern Club. First impressions are it sounds very similar to the well used LaBella 760 it replaced (which broke). i.e. kind of dead. But I don't hear any warbling overtones and they say that dead sound is normal for a new Pyramid Gold. I had a D'Addario Chrome E on there for a week, and it still had much more of a metallic "zing" than either the old LaBellas or the new Pyramids. When new the Chromes sounded like roundwounds but they faded after a few days, although nowhere close to an old school "thump".

the material in the LaBella is stainless steel, the D'addario is nickel-steel, and the Pyramid is pure nickel. so, you're going to get slightly different tones from all three of them.

 

[SteveCS]

I don't normally go for any kind of relicing, but I also thought the fresh white bone looked a bit stark, so it spent 15 minutes in hot tea this afternoon.
From this:

To this:

Looks like it spent 20 years down the pub (before the smoking ban).
As for the bass, two weeks in and it continues to exceed all expectations, especially with the black tapes - something I never imagined myself saying. In isolation the tones are pretty good, but put it with a band and with the right song it is capable of true magic.

 

[SteveCS]

I have a question for the group : What is the correct / best / safest way to remove the saddle frets?

TL : DR
With the default position of one saddle in each slot I have the bridge angled back to achieve accurate intonation. Not only does it look odd, it means that 1) the saddle frets are way off being perpendicular to the strings and 2) the bridge base itself is not positioned at the location intended by the design - the treble side is too far down the arch of the top. I want to get all of the saddles in one slot then position the bridge assembly back into a more conventional position at which point I intend to do through a 'fitting' procedure. What is the correct / best / safest way to remove the saddle frets?

 

[steve_rolfeca]

I have a question for the group : What is the correct / best / safest way to remove the saddle frets?

TL : DR
With the default position of one saddle in each slot I have the bridge angled back to achieve accurate intonation. Not only does it look odd, it means that 1) the saddle frets are way off being perpendicular to the strings and 2) the bridge base itself is not positioned at the location intended by the design - the treble side is too far down the arch of the top. I want to get all of the saddles in one slot then position the bridge assembly back into a more conventional position at which point I intend to do through a 'fitting' procedure. What is the correct / best / safest way to remove the saddle frets?

Generally speaking, you probably won't end up with all the saddles in the same slot- the "extra" slots are specifically there so that you can get the required stagger without having the saddle too far off perpendicular to the strings.

I use a fine jeweller's screwdriver (or the tip of my pocket knife) to gently tease up one end of the fret. They come out pretty easily once you can get a good grip on them.

Disclaimer: My experience is with setting up my Ignition, and having set up a few Epi Violas. The Contemporary and German bridges are made of Ebony, and may get a bit more "bite" on the tang of the fret wire used for the saddle.

 

[Michael Eisenman]

I have a question for the group : What is the correct / best / safest way to remove the saddle frets?

TL : DR
With the default position of one saddle in each slot I have the bridge angled back to achieve accurate intonation. Not only does it look odd, it means that 1) the saddle frets are way off being perpendicular to the strings and 2) the bridge base itself is not positioned at the location intended by the design - the treble side is too far down the arch of the top. I want to get all of the saddles in one slot then position the bridge assembly back into a more conventional position at which point I intend to do through a 'fitting' procedure. What is the correct / best / safest way to remove the saddle frets?

Here’s a suggestion for setting the saddle locations. Before you take off the strings and bridge, note the current intonation point on each string with a fine marker. It should help you estimate the relative saddle positions (slots) with the bridge in the correct orientation (not angled).

 

[shoulderpet]

Anyone compared the rotosound trubass tapes to the pyramid flats? I got the pyramids on now but they get a little clanky/thin when you hop to the D and G string. I love the pyramids on all my fenders, but I’m wondering if maybe the Roto Trubass is what I need to combat that thinness. Thoughts?

Not tried the Pyramids but Rotosound Trubass are the deepest,thumpiest tapes I have tried, they start out with a little brightness and quickly mellow, sadly I found intonation went out the window with those strings

 

[shoulderpet]

I need to get a replacement pickguard for my contemporary club bass, does anyone know if the pickguards for the contemporary Hofners and the German Hofner basses are interchangeable?