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Double Bass Homebuilt EUB build thread

#221
DoubleMIDI said:
If you clamp wet wood between plastic, it cannot dry there or it takes a very long time to do so.
It might work to shape it, but it will try to get back a bit if it is still wet when you remove the pipe.
Click to expand...

I think that's ok, because 6" is tighter than I need, so if it springs back a bit, the piece won't be under as much tension. I could drill small holes in the pvc, but I would be concerned about having dimples from them.

I am mostly just trying to avoid making a huge bending jig for 4 relatively small parts.
 
#222
Started working on the fret markings. Pretty happy with how this looks. Now to repeat 31 more times.

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#226
It makes noise! It's alive!!! (Sort of)

As I started working on the neck shape, I realized that I need to know how this is going to feel with strings on. Bridge is done, tuners are quick, I have a set of strings....

So I decided to string it up (these are some $5 strings I've probably had for 20 years or so. And yes, they're round wound. No, I don't have a B string...yet)

Temporary nut needs some work, but it did the trick for tonight. Weird lump on the fingerboard is a Snark.

Carving the neck should proceed pretty quickly now that I can feel the strings. I don't think it's too far off.
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#227
A lot of exciting, but not particularly photogenic work done today. The neck is probably about 90% ready. Lots of time with straight edges, draw knives, rasps, sanders, and other tools. I discovered a problem at the heel that will be a bit of a PITA to fix, but not a deal breaker. (There's a knot or something that broke out, and I need to fill and patch it.)

Thinking about the to do list.
Finish shaping the neck (including fixing the problem area.)
Bend the top and side pieces that need bent.
Build the body.
Sanding... Sanding and more sanding...
Figure out the final electronics.
Finish the guitar.
Learn how to play it. (Yes I am looking into local lessons)

That sounds reasonable...
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#231
DoubleMIDI said:
You might to go slower, bend less and do it several times. You might also try a larger diameter (less curvature) tube (or something else) for the first bends.
And as you have already seen, grain structure is important.
Click to expand...

I knew I was pushing it with the dampness of the board, and it broke at the spot the the strap joined the steel. So I think it broke because there was a sharp bend where the strap joined. I have re-done the strap so that it now wraps all the way along the bending area. I am also soaking the next piece for several days.

A bit of trial and error. Worst case I have to bookmatch another piece of mahogany that I have to make more side material.
 
#234
How I learned to love the epoxy. (It's the bomb!)

I've never really used epoxy very much before, but between this repair and the side dots I am becoming a fan.

This was the knot that I discovered, I chiseled it out, and then sanded a block to fit. Some epoxy and sawdust as peanut butter to fill the gaps, and Bob's your uncle.

I am not terribly worried, as I am thinking that this may wind up under a darker stain when I finish the bass
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#235
While waiting for the epoxy to dry, I redid the nut. Not quite perfect, and it will continue to be a work in progress while I am finishing up the bass. But it's so much better than the first one.

I am trying out even spacing between the strings rather than between centers. We'll see what I think.
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#237
DoubleMIDI said:
I think I would prefer equal distance between string centers. Changing the string with your distances needs a different amount of move and I would not like it.
Not that you cannot get used to it.
But you can always make a new nut.
Click to expand...

The difference is really just a few hundredths of an inch. But it does group the A,D, and G strings a tiny bit closer together which is nice. Especially coming from an EB where the string spacing is much narrower.

That B string will always be a stretch.
 

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