Sorry, I can't answer your question because I was laughing that you used a lego box to mock up a 3D shape!
I am pretty sure I would be classified as an AFOL... (and this is a very small percentage of my collection)
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Double Bass Homebuilt EUB build thread
- Thread starter Videojunkie
- Start date
-
- Tags
- build a bass diy bass eub
I am pretty sure I would be classified as an AFOL... (and this is a very small percentage of my collection)
Started mocking up the sound box. I think I am going to have to pin all this together with dowels to hold it while I glue it together.
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,007
- 1
- 31,705
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
Dowels?? Why not just small brads/staples? Build it up one piece at a time, kinda like building a speaker cabinet (but without all those convenient right angles.... 
).
).
I thought about using my Brad nailer, but I have to sand a lot of it to get the skin wood to lay correctly, and I did not want to have to deal with metal fasteners.Dowels?? Why not just small brads/staples? Build it up one piece at a time, kinda like building a speaker cabinet (but without all those convenient right angles....
I suppose I could pull them once the glue sets.
I am also considering more elaborate joinery (Half laps, or finger joints) to make the frame stronger. Dowels would also meet this criteria.
Last edited:
In the DB world dowels are avoided where possible. Specially if the grain is in a different orientation. Wood shrinks perpendicular to the grain over time.
I could take the very hard way and make them all dovetail joints. That way as they shrink they bind on each other. But this is kiln dried wood, and I don't anticipate a lot of movement once it's all glued up. I will need to think about grain direction though.
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,007
- 1
- 31,705
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
This is an EUB, right? So there’s no real need to build an acoustic box?
Butt joints and Titebond or (better yet) epoxy. Done. Just avoid end grain.
Butt joints and Titebond or (better yet) epoxy. Done. Just avoid end grain.
I am planning on a mic inside the box to add some acoustic warmth to the sound.
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,007
- 1
- 31,705
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
My approach was to build the box quite simply, and glue panels front and back, with piezos wedged inside. If you like doing dovetails, then do them, but they’re not necessary for structural integrity.
I wouldn’t mind trying an internal mic. Which one will you be using?
I wouldn’t mind trying an internal mic. Which one will you be using?
Back at it after an un planned business trip and other things.
Turning big pieces into little pieces.
Also, that's much better bridge placement!
Turning big pieces into little pieces.
Also, that's much better bridge placement!
Last edited:
Made a sled for my table saw so I could work on the bridge.
Just about ready to glue the fingerboard and start finishing this thing up!
Just about ready to glue the fingerboard and start finishing this thing up!
Got some bridge work done. I think I am pretty close to ready for finishing on this piece.
If you want to be able to bow that thing, you need to risen the middle one a bit. Otherwise you won’t be able to bow the middle string alone but always catch the neighbors too. But not too high or you won’t be able to catch the second or fourth string alone.
I would say about half of the thickness that the inner three saddles have been risen.
@DoubleMIDI the current arrangement the saddles are lowered almost to their bottom most positions, and the E and D bridges are just above their respective points on the fingerboard. The A bridge is a MM or so above the fingerboard peak. Each one has almost 6MM of vertical travel above their current positions.
I am also making this piece as a detachable part, so that if I need to raise it, I can add spacers underneath.
I am also making this piece as a detachable part, so that if I need to raise it, I can add spacers underneath.
OK, if you have that much adjustment space, you might not need to rise the middle saddle, but I would do it to have more height adjustment space for the strings (like DB adjusters which raise all strings by the same amount for different types of strings or playing styles).
I thought myself that you could change it later, I just wanted to mention the potential problem.
I thought myself that you could change it later, I just wanted to mention the potential problem.
It's getting time to start thinking about how to finish the bass. While there is still quite a bit to do, I expect it to start coming together is fairly big chunks. I am at the point where lots of small pieces will start to make bigger pieces.
The two parts that I am worried about getting right, are the purpleheart and the lightly figured maple.
My Google-fu indicates that shellac topped with either spar urethane or lacquer is the way to go for the purpleheart.
The same treatment may also be my best bet for the maple.
The mahogany is less of an issue, because it will take almost any finish.
The problem is that my fingerboard is purpleheart, and I am concerned that the lacquer finish won't hold up well. I plan on only ever using flatwounds on it. So I am pondering a CA glue finish for the top.
But then I have to worry about all these different finishes being cohesive in luster and sheen.
Lastly, I am seriously considering about trying to do some purple dye for a sunburst on the maple. Mostly because I think it would be awesome. I have a bottle of rit dye that is very close in color to the purpleheart. I have watched a few hours of YouTube andthey make it look easy... I will have some scrap soon to test it out before committing to the finish.
The two parts that I am worried about getting right, are the purpleheart and the lightly figured maple.
My Google-fu indicates that shellac topped with either spar urethane or lacquer is the way to go for the purpleheart.
The same treatment may also be my best bet for the maple.
The mahogany is less of an issue, because it will take almost any finish.
The problem is that my fingerboard is purpleheart, and I am concerned that the lacquer finish won't hold up well. I plan on only ever using flatwounds on it. So I am pondering a CA glue finish for the top.
But then I have to worry about all these different finishes being cohesive in luster and sheen.
Lastly, I am seriously considering about trying to do some purple dye for a sunburst on the maple. Mostly because I think it would be awesome. I have a bottle of rit dye that is very close in color to the purpleheart. I have watched a few hours of YouTube andthey make it look easy... I will have some scrap soon to test it out before committing to the finish.
No lacquer on the played side of the fingerboard. The standard treatment for the played area of the fingerboard is unfretted instruments is boiled linseed oil.
And the back side of the neck should get no lacquer either. I think it gets oil too, but I‘m not sure. At least it should be sanded a bit so that the thumb does not stick to the lacquer (some but very few necks get lacquer at the backside of the neck).
And the back side of the neck should get no lacquer either. I think it gets oil too, but I‘m not sure. At least it should be sanded a bit so that the thumb does not stick to the lacquer (some but very few necks get lacquer at the backside of the neck).
I finished a bass with a purpleheart fretboard using pure polymerized tung oil. Turned out great. It's strung with flats and has no sign of fretboard wear, though admittedly it has had relatively little use.
One thing to be aware of is that oil based things darkens and browns the color somewhat. This was OK for my purposes where purple-brown actually suits the aesthetic, but if you want vivid purple you should lookup the various techniques to preserve vibrant color in woods. Guessing water based poly with UV blocking is your best bet in that case.
One thing to be aware of is that oil based things darkens and browns the color somewhat. This was OK for my purposes where purple-brown actually suits the aesthetic, but if you want vivid purple you should lookup the various techniques to preserve vibrant color in woods. Guessing water based poly with UV blocking is your best bet in that case.
That's a gorgeous bass! The spar urethane is UV blocking (designed for sailboats). And seems to be the preferred method I have seen. (Other less reputable sources suggest car waxes and other gimmicks.)
I was seeing if the hive-mind had more experience.
