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How do you decide on string gauge?

It's one thing to decide which brand or type of string. Base it on the sound you want, etc. But each string comes in several gauges. How do you decide which?

It's a little tough to just try them out since switching gauge can mean readjusting the bridge and truss rod. (Plus the expense). More work than just trying a different brand in the same gauge or tension.
I don't see any better way to do it than putting them on your bass -- you wanna know what they're actually gonna feel/play/sound like. Coincidentally, my current set of strings is the first time I've used lights in years (been using mediums for quite some time now). Decided I don't like 'em, but I wouldn't have trusted that assessment if I hadn't done it on my bass through my rig.
 
It's one thing to decide which brand or type of string. Base it on the sound you want, etc. But each string comes in several gauges. How do you decide which?

It's a little tough to just try them out since switching gauge can mean readjusting the bridge and truss rod. (Plus the expense). More work than just trying a different brand in the same gauge or tension.

I know. The bass string industry, is a puzzle and a maze, and it's almost incomprehensible to sort it out in one go. Unbelievable djungle out there!

Don't get me started. I've been in to too much debate and flame wars with another TB member by now. I think basically like this: ANY MAJOR BRAND WILL DO. However, since I have nickel allergy I have to make choices, and selection that is not always available on the spot when entering any music shop (provided regular tuning EADG):

1. Gauge is important, should it be able to chose the same brand that I've used before. 045 - 105 usually, for a 34" scale bass.
2. Stainless steel, roundwound is just as important as number one really.
3. They have to be: non tapered, non open core.
4. Scale.
5. Definitely non red silk anywhere on any string. Still beats me to this day why they insists on keeping it (Hey Rotosound and others! shape up!).
6. No coated strings ever on me. Elixir, EXP, and the likes are totally out for me. If someone pointed a gun to my head, and the store just had one brand coated on the shelves, it's Cleartone I would choose. Then it wouldn't matter if they came in nickel or stainless steel.
7. Round core if I can get that, but it's not THAT important. Very few makes them today, DR and Newtone are just some. I can do well with hex cores too. On my headlesses (!?) with double ball ends, it's most definitely round cores, since they lock in both ends without you having to be wary of kinks and bends when you put them on.
8. If another UNKNOWN brand, I would make sure I got information on tension, and core/wrap ratio first. If this changes I have to readjust neck relief, and intonation, string height, even if it's the same gauge I used before.
...
10... or lower, is the actual brand. And even lower down in the list, price.

There's a couple more. I've forgot surely. The reason I can't choose the lightest gauge is that they don't hold up for long. The G-strings snaps sooner. And as I don't do any kind of funk, slap, thumb anymore I don't use 30-90 sets anymore. I can get emergeny G-string as 040 if I have to make the gig through, as a spare, but nowhere ever never buying it. The thick E on a 34" scale bass I don't - by and large - want to go under .100 and not past 110. Very rarely 110. .107 gague is probably maximum for me, as a low E string. Around 105, 103, 104 are usual gauges for me. They usually go up in gauges by an added .020 ... each string. 045-065-085-105. That's a general rule of thumb mark I base my string gagues choices around. Brands and prices do come last. I tend to avoid Elixirs, and Ernie Balls for some reason though. It has to do with longevity. EB sounds and feels the greatest when they're fresh, but after a week, they die a thousandfold more than any other string that has been on the bass for decades. I don't MIND TI, DR, D'addario, Newtone, LaBella, GHS, but frankly I couldn't care less. If you have to do a lot of downtuning, all these examples of gauge is going out the window, and your guess is as good as mine. It's only EADG tuning, and at regular scale 34".

This with tension and/or stiffness should be of some concern, but not the most important. People often mix up stiffness/tension which is totally independent of each other. Tension is a set in stone measurement that can be measured in Newtons. But stiffness is a feel thing, that is only "measured" or perceived by the player. Feeling hard to press down strings? Well, yes but so it is at the gym too. That 15 lbs dumbell doesn't feel as heavy anymore while you've been working out a couple of years, that it felt when you visitied the gym for the first time of your life. And when someone besides you goes "ohhh...it's so heavy" you yourself can NOW lift that 15 lbs dumbell with your pinky and it doesn't feel heavy or "stiff" at all. It is exactly the same with strings. The same gauge/tension strings that you once felt were way too stiff, are a breeze these days, and it can very well be felt "very stiff" by another player used to the lighest gauges, while you who're grown up with a 55-120 set will feel a 045-105 set not stiff at all. So stiffness is more or less always a player feel moreso than anything. Same with scale thing. Of course a 35" scale will "feel stiffer" than same gauge on a 34".

It's just feel. What feels stiff for you doesn't feel stiff for me and vice versa.
 
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Having a too light gauge is impossible to keep intonated while playing. The lowest E-notes GOES MOMENTARILY up in pitch if you're leaning in and whacking it. It's because it's too thin gauge for it's a) open string set pitch E b) scale. If you play speed metal with 16ths all of the time, the note doesn't settle into the right pitch but is hears too sharp all of the time, no matter how accurately you have tuned it or intonated it. You can do this test yourself by watching the tuner needle. Most of the time, this can't be remedied with thicker gauge or increased "balanced" tension set strings, but has to be remedies with longer scale for each string as you go down in pitch. This very light gauge string forces you to baby the lowest strings all of the time, and limiting dynamics since you can't lean in too hard or heavy with your picking hand. Of course, people makes use of the resulting "pitch wavering" and use it as a deliberate TWANG/GROWL of their sound.

But I'd rather use a fanned fret bass for balancing tension out, than any "balanced tension" set. You can use drop tunings better too, on those ones. Increased gauge will only get you so far, down low. But I feel, like, here we go again... so I'd rather not want to get started in that issue. Because it's an issue. Luckily more and more manufacturers have been doing fanned frets basses, lately, as the music played, the stoner, doom metal, djent and other styles relies heavily on downtuned instruments, and more strings than 4.
 
It's one thing to decide which brand or type of string. Base it on the sound you want, etc. But each string comes in several gauges. How do you decide which?

It's a little tough to just try them out since switching gauge can mean readjusting the bridge and truss rod. (Plus the expense). More work than just trying a different brand in the same gauge or tension.

i just tried different strings here and there over many years. Wasn't like I ordered $500 in strings at once. Typically when ever I get a new bass I'll try two or three different types of strings on it. I've owned 13 basses over 20 years so it adds up over time. One thing that makes it easy for me is I nearly always play in standard tuning so other than experimenting with drastically different tunings like low f# and eadgc its nearly always been standard. Also mostly playing warwicks and not wanting to modify the bridge it's limited me to lighter gauges or tapered strings. Btw I use DR hi beams .125-.030 on my 6 string.
 
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I started with the 105 standard. A teacher of mine that was a slapper from hell used 90, so I tried them. Didn't quite like them, so I went to 95, then 100... and back to 105, the gauge I finally decided was the one I liked most. I suppose there's no other way to choose than trying them over the years. Don't get 4 sets and test them in a weekend! Put some 90-95, try them for a couple of months, try some 100, change brands and materials. I decided early on I was a "nickel man", no steel for me. Buy a different brand each time.
 
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...Strings choices are a very personal matter. The only way to find out what works for you is simply to try them out.
This is key. You can read all the comments/reviews/etc., but in the end you have to try them out for yourself to find what works for you.

I prefer low tension strings, and have settled on TI Jazz Rounds and Jazz Flats for my basses.
 
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Thinnest possible. I see no reason to use super heavy strings unless down tuning substantially.

I almost always use 0.40 to 0.100 (0.120 B) and have for years. Exceptions for me are flats/tapes which tend to be heavier gauges.

Personal preference in any case!

^^^ This. I've been playing for almost 40 years, and this long span of time has allowed me to try just about everything. I have played 0.40 to 0.100 for years because it is the best balance for me.
 
I started out with Ernie Ball Regular Slinkies, then tried the Hybrid Slinkies, the Super Slinkies, and the Power Slinkies. I've even tried the cobalt and the coated versions. I liked different things about each of them until I ultimately decided that my favorite was the Power Slinkies. I play primarily with a pick, so in standard tuning they sound so full and powerful and when played in half-step down or drop D they don't sound weak or too floppy. I've never liked the feel of thin strings on my bass so they were the ones for me. It just takes some playing around with to find what's right for you. Power Slinkies are 55-75-90-110

You mentioned that different gauges means adjusting the truss rod and bridge, with an added expense. You should be setting your bass up everytime you change strings anyways (not necessarily a full set up but every time you release and add tension due to changing strings the truss rod will move). Truss rod and bridge adjustment is also something that you really don't need to bring in to someone and pay them to do (in my mind it's a waste unless you're doing a full set up), and is something that is pretty easy to learn on your own. The only thing you may have to do that would warrant taking it in to someone if you don't have the experience is filing down the nut for larger gauge strings, which at the same time shouldn't be an issue if you're not going up too much in size.

EDIT: Forgot to add, welcome to TalkBass! Little do you know, but your addiction to all things bass has just begun ;)
 
After spending a billion dollars on strings, I prefer a 45 G string and a 95/100 E string (except for TI's which have a 105 E, but don't feel like it). A and D strings don't matter to me. As far as brands go, I've almost come to the conclusion that most are alright. I really like Ernie Ball Colbalts; D'Addarrios are great, seem to last long and feel alright; I've had TI Powerbass strings on my P bass for at least 8 - 9 months and don't plan on changing them anytime soon. I've used Fender strings and like the sound of those too. Don't think I'll ever go back to Rotosounds because, although they sound fantastic initially, they have a sticky feel and short life span.
 
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I screwed around with all kinds of different gauges and got completely confused. One day--one set sounded great to me and sucked the next day---round and round I went.

Then--I bought a new EBMM Bongo that was factory set up with the EB super slinky strings--it blew away any combination I had tried before...and they are cheap.

45, 65, 80 and 100. No reason for me to experiment any longer and I don't have to touch the bass set up.