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How do you decide on string gauge?

It's one thing to decide which brand or type of string. Base it on the sound you want, etc. But each string comes in several gauges. How do you decide which?

It's a little tough to just try them out since switching gauge can mean readjusting the bridge and truss rod. (Plus the expense). More work than just trying a different brand in the same gauge or tension.
It is a lot of trial and error. If I was just playing standard EADG, there really isn't that much to mess with. The standard .105 to .045 set is good for 90% of the standard tuning world. I spend more time messing with core types and winding than gauges for that tuning. the difference between a .105 and then either .110 or .100 is pretty minor and shouldn't require a complete re-setup if you are just trying them out.
It also helps if you know what kind of player you are and what sound you are after. Do you prefer attack over fundamental, are you a light touch or heavy handed, etc.
 
Agreed, trial and error is about all you can do. There are so many options and often competing goals to fulfill such as how they sound versus how they feel to play. In addition, I've found that certain string sets just work well with a particular bass. For example, I have a Franken70's J with a USACG P neck that has not been what I'd call a good player for me. I gotta wild hair a few days ago to switch out the strings with my tricked out Squier CV P with the DR Legend flats that were on the J going to the P and the D'Addario nickel rounds that were on the P going to the J. Suddenly, the Franken70's J was really happening and the P was improved as well. It often pays to experiment.
 
Medium or heavy gauges for me. I use D'Addario XLs 45-65-85-105-135 for my Sadowsky Js (one 4 and one 5- string) and my P-Basses gets Rotosound flats in 50-75-95-110. All basses are in standard tuning. My Stingray gets XLs 45-65-85-110 since I have a Hipshot on that one, so it happens that I og Drop D at times. The reason I go heavy on the Ps, are the tone, but also the feel for my right hand. I learned to play either by playing over the back pole pieces of the Stingray pickup, or over the bridge pick up on a Jazz Bass. When starting to get more into the Precision Bass and playing over the P pick up, the 45-105 strings were to sloppy to my taste, and going to the Rotos solved that problem nicely. Also, I can play faster with thicker strings, 'cause they don't move around as much, and are easier to control, so this notion that light gauges = speed, well, that depends. On electric guitar too, I feel the same. I play 11-49s in standard tuning, which is "one up" from what's the "normal" 10s. I guess my hands have decent strength, but I also hold the neck with the thumb over as much as I can, like a baseball bat, to conserve strength. This thing of holding the neck with the thumb on the back, classical guitar style, all the time, is nonsense IMO, and a recipe for injury. I only do that if the playing dictates it. One thing I've also learning now, is to try and use the muscles higher up in the arm, like the bicep, to generate the strength to move and position the left hand and fingers over the strings in dynamic motion. It's kind of strange but it works, playing Teen Town and you feel a slight burn in the bicep! :p One thing I've been told/ learned from physio therapists is that dynamic movement is good, and to avoid any static positionings and grips etc. like it's the Grim Reaper. So to do stuff that enhances strenght and flexibility, like yoga (which I don't do btw.) is highly recommended. There's this girl on youtube "Kino Yoga", who I when I watch her, I'm thinking that she could probably stand on her hands while playing the bass with her toes behind her head! :p It's crazy the skill level some people have aquired through practise and will power. I'm too lazy to do yoga now, but I hope I change my mind on that one, as the benefits are enormous. Just look at Sting, he's 65! And he's still in shape. I remember watching him belt out Roxanne at the Grammy Awards in 2007, realizing how he there sung it in the original key, and with more power and better tone in his voice (richer, fuller,fatter) than when he did it live 30 years earlier. Now, that's how to age! ;) (Hehe, went a little off topic there.... ;) )
 
After several years of playing heavier gauge strings, a friend of mine who used to play bass for Pissing Razors (Rick Valles) was at my house playing my bass when he asked if I ever tried Dean Markley Cryogenic Blue Steel Medium Lights. I hadn't so I ordered some and that was that. I have been using them ever since and that was about 17 years ago more or less. Not only do they sound great and last a very long time, but they are just so easy to play.
 
Trial & error, and yes, it does get expensive and is totally impractical unless you learn to do your own setups (which isn't very hard to do).

Especially if, like myself, you live in an area that has seasons that can change drastically, knowing how to do your own setups is mandatory.
 
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My first decent bass was a used Fender P that the previous owner had strung with medium/light guage round wounds. Played and sounded fine. Next bass was a '68 Fender P strung with black tape wound suspension bridge cables (at least that's what they felt like). Horrible. It was at that point that I fully appreciated the differences in bass strings. In the thirty seven years since, I've narrowed it down to light guage nickel round wounds. Brand isn't that important, because most are pretty well made and though I keep them on for decades (they do mellow out nicely) they rarely break. I am a cheapskate, so I don't like spending a ton of money on a name brand. Like soup or tires, most generic brands are manufactured by the same companies that sell their premium brands for top dollar.
 
I keep reading about ideal string tension and i keep reading about how string gauge comes into play. I play jazz basses and use whatever they come with as the nut is (usually) a few file strokes from ready for that particular string set. The exception to this is a jazz i bought that had been professionally set up with a heavier gauge string for drop tuning. It played just fine in standard but was a shade darker sounding than my other j's so i left it alone and bought replacement strings of the same guage it was set up for.

All that said, i discovered that a babicz bridge would raise string tension by a noticeable amount. It did it to any j bass i string with the stock gauge and it also worked on the bass with thicker strings.

I really like the increased tension as well as the complete lack of side play from the locking saddles.
 
I used EB Regular Slinky for years as my go-to roundwound, but recently (last two years) rediscovered the Fender 7250M strings. I'd tried Fender strings in the 80s, but they were inconsistent, and broke easily (???). I've also lowered my action a bit from before. The combination works really well for me and I've been re-stringing my basses with 7250M (except for the P with Chromes), and adjusting the action accordingly.

It really changed the way I play, and sounds great. The playing consistency from one bass to the next is great. Even though there are some different neck profiles it just seems more comfortable. I guess I probably should have done this years ago. Why was I working so hard?
 
For me it's all about balanced tension, I don't care what the gauge number actually says so long as i have the tension that I actually like (mid to upper 40's for me, which is certainly on the heavier side.) Stiffness while appreciable is not a huge factor for me, how often do we do full step bends....really....c'mon.

Kalium strings has allowed me to get exactly what i want by providing a tension chart and plethora of gauges. For my 35" 6'er in standard tuning and my fairly aggressive fingers/pick I use:

.142 - 45.22lbs
.110 - 49.22lbs
.082 - 49.62lbs
.062 - 49.24lbs
.045 - 49.32lbs
.033 - 48.44lbs

Realizing there will be some differences in tension from brand to brand and from material to material, let's compare to a "Standard" 5 string set at both 34" and 35" scales. I think we can all agree that the .125, .105. .085, .065, .045 is marketed as the "standard" or "medium" string set.

So at those gauges with Kalium ROUNDWOUND strings specifically (but we can get a general idea about others.)

35" Scale
.124 - 34.81lbs (They don't sell a .125, but we can likely round up to about 35lbs)
.106 - 45.79lbs (They don't sell a .105, but we can likely round down to about 45lbs)
.086 - 54.32lbs (They don't sell a .085, but we can likely round down to about 54lbs)
.065 - 56.13lbs
.045 - 49.32lbs

34" Scale
.124 - 32.85 (round up to 33lbs for .125)
.106 - 43.21 (round down to 43lbs)
.086 - 51.26lbs (let's call it 51lbs)
.065 - 52.97lbs
.045 - 46.54lbs

And people wonder why they have floppy B strings!

I am in no way affiliated or endorsed by Kalium Strings, but I just can't wrap my head around playing strings with such wildly different tensions. With a proper setup, I don't have to adjust the way I play my B/E like compared to A, D & G like I would in a traditionally balanced set. The B has less than 2/3 the tension of the D string in both traditional cases.

Here's the link to the tension generator if you're not familiar with it.
Link Removed
 
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My main bass is my Ibanez SR1205E. I changed my strings a few months ago, here was my approach:

The brand I chose was D'Addario because they have a PDF with the string tension for every string gauge tuned to each note. I decided I wanted a high-tension, heavy gauge B string to get a stronger response. I went with the .145 B which produced around 45 lbs of tension. (If memory serves correctly.)
Taking this information I created my own "balanced tension" set. I picked EADG string gauges getting as close as I could to the 45 lb mark. They all ended up being within about +/- 3 lbs of the B string tension.
This took some getting used to, as the D and G strings ended up being a lighter gauge than I was used to.

But I'm happy with my choice and I would buy the same again. Bass Strings Online was great for ordering a custom set like this and it was only a couple dollars more than a regular 5-string set.
 
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The brand I chose was D'Addario because they have a PDF with the string tension for every string gauge tuned to each note. I decided I wanted a high-tension, heavy gauge B string to get a stronger response. I went with the .145 B which produced around 45 lbs of tension. (If memory serves correctly.)
Taking this information I created my own "balanced tension" set. I picked EADG string gauges getting as close as I could to the 45 lb mark. They all ended up being within about +/- 3 lbs of the B string tension.
This took some getting used to, as the D and G strings ended up being a lighter gauge than I was used to.

But I'm happy with my choice and I would buy the same again. Bass Strings Online was great for ordering a custom set like this and it was only a couple dollars more than a regular 5-string set.

The 145-B would balance nicely with the EXL170BT (45-60-80-107) balanced-tension set at around 40-42 lbs. each, if you're talking about nickel rounds.
 
It's one thing to decide which brand or type of string. Base it on the sound you want, etc. But each string comes in several gauges. How do you decide which?

It's a little tough to just try them out since switching gauge can mean readjusting the bridge and truss rod. (Plus the expense). More work than just trying a different brand in the same gauge or tension.
recently as last week a whim. ha ha ha
I always used 45-105 for the longest time I guess because that was the most available gauges on hand at the local music store back then.
and I just kept using them until a recent purchase :)
 
Especially if, like myself, you live in an area that has seasons that can change drastically, knowing how to do your own setups is mandatory.

Same here - humidity changes in Chicagoland mean that my truss rods need to be tweaked four to six times a year (2-3 times in both spring and fall).
 
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