• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

How do you decide on string gauge?

#84
If you're looking at 4 strings, I'd go with 45-65-85-105. That's the most in the middle. I'd say if you're using a pick or fingers to play, then heavy gauge will work, but if you want to play faster or play tapping or slap, then better to go with light gauge strings. Still, light-medium gauge is probably to best to start from.

Also, if you have 5+ strings it makes a difference. I have a 6 string bass and the gauges of the strings are 32-45-65-85-105-145. If you think the 145 B string is ridiculous, I agree. But with many basses that have a neck below 35 inches (including mine), a light gauge B string will just be too flabby unless you tune it up to E (which is actually quite nice on 5 string (EADGC tuning) but on 6 string the highest string would be too tight). I'd say a B string should be above 135 gauge, just to be safe.

Also, there are lots of websites (like Bass Strings Online, and even Amazon) where you can order individual strings. So you can mix and match them to your liking.

I hope this helps.
 
  • Like
Reactions: gregmon79
#85
I'm telling you, the only way to know is to do a Satanic sacrifice of a virgin girl. Then you smear the walls of her blood then you cut your chest with the devil sign then everything will be reveal. :D




:DOk seriously you just have to try and you'll find what is good then one day you'll decide to change and then you may like something else for a few year and change etc.
 
#86
I had to try different ones until I found ones that I liked.

I ended up going from .105-.045 and at time to .105-.050 (regular bottom, heavier top). D'Addarrio makes Pro Steels in those sets and I like them the most. But I've tried heavier gauges and I found that the tone darkens too much for my liking. So I stuck with regular gauges for the most part. However if I ever wanted to tune down to alternate tunings I would most def get a thicker gauge.

In the end, over the years, I just kept buying different ones and trying them for a while to see what I liked most and what worked for me. That is most likely what you would have to do as well. Like all of us. If you don't tune down a lot or at all, I would stick with regular gauges .105-.045. If you feel that gauge is a little too tough to play on and you find yourself not being able to get around well, try a lighter gauge. It just depends.

And honestly, any bassist should learn how to adjust the truss rod and string saddles. It just goes with the territory IMO. If you don't, you just limit yourself.
 
#88
Doug4321 said:
It's one thing to decide which brand or type of string. Base it on the sound you want, etc. But each string comes in several gauges. How do you decide which?

It's a little tough to just try them out since switching gauge can mean readjusting the bridge and truss rod. (Plus the expense). More work than just trying a different brand in the same gauge or tension.
Click to expand...
I just picked whatever gauge ti jazz flats are. But i do wish in this day and age that you could get exact custom gauges. It seems they make cookie cutter gauges for all scale lengths, which is weak.
 
#89
Wiremessiah said:
But i do wish in this day and age that you could get exact custom gauges. It seems they make cookie cutter gauges for all scale lengths, which is weak.
Click to expand...

Here's my wish for all the string companies out there regarding gauge selections...

Most brands offer 40-60-80-100, 45-65-80-100 and 45-65-85-105, but not 45-60-80-105, with only a couple of exceptions.

Would it be too much to ask for them to take what they already produce and simply re-package them for those of us who care about things like "balanced tension"?
 
#90
I've always been pretty much up the middle with 45105 sets, however I've used lighter gauge sets, but found that the thinner strings sound a tad thinner as well. Heck I've got 2 sets of 40100 Dunlop SS SBs that I'm not sure what to do with; love the sound though. Lately I've been using the newer balanced tension D'Add EPS 300 Prosteels with a tapered wound E/A (43-63-85-107) which I am really lovin', and it couples well with their 130TW for 5ers.
 
#91
To get the right fit or set of strings, it takes a long time. Over the decades of playing electric guitar, I found a variety of medium gauges that worked for me. And with Acoustic Guitar I prefer the Light gauges with auditorium bodies over the mediums used for dreadnoughts. I say gauges because, I'm not particular to any brand. And guitar string gauges don't affect tone as much bass.

However, with bass and guitar, finger attack and style of playing will require the optimal gauge and tension. And some contend that gauge effects tone. Thus, finding the right gauges for bass is much more complicated. With so many varieties to choose from, it'll take a long time.

For now, I'm liking the EB Super Slinky 2834, and D'Addario EXL170 for round wound. And the D'Addario Chromes ECB84 for my flats. These give me a good blend of tightness, low power, and soft feel so I can play for hours. And the chromes lighter D and G feel like playing rounds.
 
#93
After several years of playing super heavy flats, I decided to try TI flats again and am enjoying them on two basses.

Thinking about putting them on the rest though the cost is up there. Restringing the fleet is a big investment.

What I find interesting and strange about TI flats is that the B is the the fattest in the business at 136, the E is medium/light at 100 and the A is the lightest in the business at 70.

The D and G are average/light at around 45 and 55.

The contrast between the B and the A is massive and not seen in any other brands I’m aware of.

Also TI only come in one gauge. Apparently they got it right and don’t want us to experiment.
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back