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How Do You Set EQ?

Oct 22, 2017
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This is such a ridiculously broad and stupid question that I don't know how to search for existing threads. I know, in the end, it's going to boil down to "Just use yer ears, mate," but a little head start would help.

I don't play at drum volume a lot. Never have. Now I'm jamming covers with these guys, walking cold into practice rooms, plugging in and struggling to sound good. Struggling to be audible without being too loud.

The backline gear is not the issue. Last night it was a Darkglass Microtubes of some sort (into I-don't-know-what-cab); last time it was an Aguilar Tone Hammer. I'm driving a P with a Lindy through a MarkBass Compressore, into the head. I'm moving my fingers from the neck back to the bridge, trying to find a spot where the E string isn't invisible and the D string isn't massive.

The question, I think, is figuring out what room nodes (is that the term?) are doing to the tonal balance and using EQ to counter them. (In retrospect, I think last night I was primarily standing in a horrible place, next to a wall across the room from the cab.) And also, how to find a place to live alongside the two guitar players and keyboard player.

So yeah. How do you do that? You walk into a room, you're getting set up; where do you start with the EQ?
 
I'm a big fan of the TH. Its controls are a little unique.

You can run it completely clean with the Gain all the way off if you want. (I usually leave it off)

The Drive is not an OD per say but is an adjustable HPF and LPF. Run it up to 11:00-12:00 it rolls off the very lows, run it higher and it rolls off the highs and adds a midrange punch. (I usually set it 10:00-11:00)

The bass is set very low at 40hz. Counterintuitively I tend to boost the bass a bit 1:00 while at the same time roll off the very lows with the Drive. It works, you are boosting the lows you want and not the lows that produce mud.

Usually run Treble and Mids at noon (flat). I don't think I've ever had trouble hearing myself but have been in rooms where I back off the Bass and increase the setting on my external HPF.
 
This is such a ridiculously broad and stupid question that I don't know how to search for existing threads. I know, in the end, it's going to boil down to "Just use yer ears, mate," but a little head start would help.

I don't play at drum volume a lot. Never have. Now I'm jamming covers with these guys, walking cold into practice rooms, plugging in and struggling to sound good. Struggling to be audible without being too loud.

The backline gear is not the issue. Last night it was a Darkglass Microtubes of some sort (into I-don't-know-what-cab); last time it was an Aguilar Tone Hammer. I'm driving a P with a Lindy through a MarkBass Compressore, into the head. I'm moving my fingers from the neck back to the bridge, trying to find a spot where the E string isn't invisible and the D string isn't massive.

The question, I think, is figuring out what room nodes (is that the term?) are doing to the tonal balance and using EQ to counter them. (In retrospect, I think last night I was primarily standing in a horrible place, next to a wall across the room from the cab.) And also, how to find a place to live alongside the two guitar players and keyboard player.

So yeah. How do you do that? You walk into a room, you're getting set up; where do you start with the EQ?
Is the guitar heavily overdriven? You would need to boost the treble. That's a lot easier than trying to talk the guitarist into making room for you. Talking a tree into flying would be easier.

If I'm playing through my own gear, I set the EQ like this: Put all the tone knobs to halfway. Twist the lefthand knob to 0. Twist it towards 10, whilst playing through the amp. Stop twisting when you can hear a difference. Do the same for the other knobs.The settings may be different from room to room.
 
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I start by finding the resonant frequency of the room and cutting it by 2-3 dB. (Link in my sig line to my detailed post here.)

From there, it depends on what the other instruments are doing. Sometimes the best thing is to get keys or guitars to cut their bass frequencies below, say, 200Hz in order to clear up the mix. Short of that, I'll try to find a less-occupied midrange frequency (usually between 750Hz and 1200Hz) where you can poke through the mix.
 
This comes up so often in questions that we addressed it in a fair amount of depth in our owner's manuals. These descriptions apply more to Baxandall EQ than fender Tone Stack based EQ because the tone stack method is much more interactive and heavily voiced.

From the D-350 manual, credit to @Al Kraft and the late @Chef:

BASS CONTROL: This active eq control is a shelving filter that is responsible for the amount (or volume) of low frequencies present in the signal, relative to the rest of the spectrum. Low frequencies (<80Hz) are responsible for the “depth”, “bottom”, “roundness”, and “feel” of the tone. This is an active control with boost and cut, the amount of boost proportional to the clockwise rotation to the right of “flat” (12:00 straight up) position and the amount of cut proportional to the counter-clockwise rotation to the left of “flat” (12:00 straight up) position. As with everything related to EQ, generally, a little bit goes a long way. Use enough to get the job done and no more. Note that if you have very compact cabinets and need high volumes, you will want to be aware that it is possible to overdrive speakers with excessive bass boost (350 Watts can be a lot for many cabs at extreme EQ settings). If your speaker system is not giving you enough low end, it’s possible that you do not have enough “rig for the gig”, and “more speaker” is needed (resulting in possible damage to the speakers). This is a shelving type filter.


LOW MID/HIGH MID EQ CONTROLS: These controls are responsible for the level (or volume) of low/high midrange frequencies present in the signal, relative to the rest of the spectrum. These are active controls with boost and cut, where the amount of boost is proportional to the clockwise rotation to the right of “flat” (12:00 straight up) position, and where the amount of cut is proportional to the counter-clockwise rotation to the left of “flat” (12:00 straight up) position of. Remember that a little eq goes a long way, use just enough to get the job done and keep your tone nicely balanced. These are peak-dip (or bell) type filters.

TREBLE CONTROL: This active eq control is a shelving filter that is responsible for the amount (or volume) of high frequencies present in the signal, relative to the rest of the spectrum. High frequencies (>2.5kHz) are responsible for the “bright”, “airy”, “clarity”, “shimmery” character of the tone. This is an active control with boost and cut, the amount of boost proportional to the clockwise rotation to the right of “flat” (12:00 straight up) position and the amount of cut proportional to the counter-clockwise rotation to the left of “flat” (12:00 straight up) position. This is a shelving type filter.
 
You ask where to start. I always start with everything flat on both the bass (if it has an onboard preamp) and on the amp. Usually bumping mids gets you heard more but not always the answer. IMHO if you aren't using your own amp it is harder to get things setup to your liking. If you have your own amp, you can have it set the way you like and do tweaks for different rooms. I refuse to use other people's gear.
 
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In our rehearsal spaces(garage, bedroom, actual rehearsal 'space'), I start with amp(Rumble 100 w/upgraded speaker) eq at noon. Usually have to roll bass to around 9 or 10, lo/hi mids occasionally to 1 or 2. I could cover all the rehearsal rooms with that general setting. Basses are passive JJ, everything dimed. If I ran my Magellan 800 and GK cabs I'd have an HPF working so bass would stay around 12.
 
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My method: start with everything flat and reduce frequencies first, then try bumping some frequencies that weren't reduced. The goal would be to bump and reduce in overall equal amounts so that the pedal is eq is running at unity gain (not making the signal louder or quieter, not making noise). Your goal might be to have the eq add gain at that particular point in the signal chain, but that should be an intentional act of tone shaping.
 
Regardless of what amp I am using, I always bump the mids and highs and drop the lows some, then adjust from there to suit my hearing to find my sound. I have discovered that I prefer more mids and highs in order to cut through. Since doing this, I have found that I don't have any issues being heard in the mix.

One of the hardest things I had to come to terms with was learning that even though I am playing a bass, the lows is NOT "where its at" so to speak. Those mids are really key to what I call 'my sound' and the highs just add a bit of clarity.

This may just all be my opinion and how things sound to me, but this is where I am at after playing for over almost 33 years now. I will add that it took me a LONG time to get here!!!
 
I use an analyzer to find the flat settings of my amps, which I use as a starting point for upright bass. For electric, I'm always interested to try out the maker's voicing, so I set the knobs to noon, and really only mess with bass if the room is unfavorable, and treble if needed to mellow things out. The "backline" gigs I've played have always had PA support, so I adjust the stage amp for intelligible bass monitoring, i.e., not too much low end.
 
This is such a ridiculously broad and stupid question that I don't know how to search for existing threads. I know, in the end, it's going to boil down to "Just use yer ears, mate," but a little head start would help.

I don't play at drum volume a lot. Never have. Now I'm jamming covers with these guys, walking cold into practice rooms, plugging in and struggling to sound good. Struggling to be audible without being too loud.

The backline gear is not the issue. Last night it was a Darkglass Microtubes of some sort (into I-don't-know-what-cab); last time it was an Aguilar Tone Hammer. I'm driving a P with a Lindy through a MarkBass Compressore, into the head. I'm moving my fingers from the neck back to the bridge, trying to find a spot where the E string isn't invisible and the D string isn't massive.

The question, I think, is figuring out what room nodes (is that the term?) are doing to the tonal balance and using EQ to counter them. (In retrospect, I think last night I was primarily standing in a horrible place, next to a wall across the room from the cab.) And also, how to find a place to live alongside the two guitar players and keyboard player.

So yeah. How do you do that? You walk into a room, you're getting set up; where do you start with the EQ?
You got it. Use your ears and twiddle the knobs until it sounds good (as possible). The problem: It is difficult to know when good (as possible) has been achieved. Hint: Sometimes it's not very good.

What I do.

First thing is recognize that bedroom tone sounds great in the bedroom, but it typically gets lost and turns into an incoherent mess on stage.

I try to dial in a sound that I think will work. Once the band starts playing I frequently find it's necessary to turn the bass down a little more and turn the mids and treble up a little more.

IMHO the main problem is something called masking. If you have two sound sources producing the same frequency, you will only hear the louder sound source. So if guitar, bass, and keys are all putting out the same frequency, you will only here whichever is louder at your ear.

Keep in mind that the tone a bass produces is not just the fundamental. In fact, the bass guitar does not put out a particularly strong fundamental and most bass amps are not capable of flat response down to the fundamental of the E or B string. Most of what you hear is the 1st overtone.

If you are playing an open E (41hz), you hear mainly 81hz. Various overtones over 81hz are also present and give your notes clarity, focus, and a certain tonal quality and color. The next overtones are a 5th higher B (124hz), the second octave E (165hz), and a major third above the second octave G# (206hz). If some other sound sources is putting out significant sound at these frequencies it degrades how well you can hear your bass.

In addition to competing with the sound of other instruments, you are also competing with the indirect sound from your bass. In a live performance venue, the sound tends to bounce around for awhile, rather than dying out immediately. The sound goes out into the room and bounces off various surfaces before making its way back to your ears. It takes time for this to occur, so the indirect sound can arrive well after the direct sound. You may not even be playing the same note anymore. If the decay time in the room is too long, your own sound will mask itself to some degree.

In my experience, the more I turn up the lows, the more my own sound mask itself. So I find it necessary to find a balance between how strong the lows are and how much clarity and articulation I can hear. To me the clarity and articulation are way more important than fat lows.

Something I tend to do is elevate my cab and aim it at my head. Elevating the cab reduces the lows a bit and also puts a notch in the low mids. Aiming the cab at my ears ensures I hear the full bandwidth of my sound coming directly from my rig.

Why do I do this? Bass speakers are not constant directivity devices. Typically the lows will be omni-directional. As the frequency rises, the wavelength of the sound gets shorter. When the wavelength get sufficiently short in relation to the size of the drivers, the cab will begin to exert pattern control and force more of the sound out front.

As the frequency continues higher, the sound may focus into a fairly narrow beam. If your speaker is flat on the floor, the beam will shoot out below your ears...meaning you won't hear this frequency until it has bounced around for awhile.

There may be another problem as well. If your cab has multiple drivers, the sound from the different drivers will interact and form into various lobes. This is due to destructive interference. At some angles the sound adds and at other angles the sound cancels. So you get a primary lobe that shoots out directly between the drivers, and you get secondary lobes that shoot out at various angles off-axis. The angle and number of secondary lobes is determined by wavelength and how it relates to spacing between the drivers.

Take a look at the following diagram: Distance is the center to center spacing between two drivers. The Greek letter Lambda is used to represent wavelength:
Low_Directivity-polars1.png


Here is the approximate dispersion pattern you get when driver spacing = 1 Lambda. This image assumes vertical alignment of the drivers.
upload_2022-7-30_18-46-28-png.4766968

Notice the ear is in the null between the lobes. So this guy will not hear this frequency very well. For a vertical 210 I believe this pattern occurs at approximately 1,130hz.

This is a higher frequency where driver spacing = 2 Lambda (2,260hz)
upload_2022-7-30_18-49-31-png.4766969

Notice one of the secondary lobes that is shooting up at an angle is pointing straight at the ear. So he will hear this frequency.

But if he moves here, his ear is in the null again.
upload_2022-7-30_18-59-37-png.4766972


Notice the primary lobe always shoots straight out (on axis). So if you make sure your ears are on axis to the primary lobe, you should hear the intended full-range response of the cab. You can do this by moving further from the cab, tilting the cab back to aim at your head, or elevating the cab to a suitable height.
upload_2022-7-30_18-45-50-png.4766967
 
This is such a ridiculously broad and stupid question that I don't know how to search for existing threads. I know, in the end, it's going to boil down to "Just use yer ears, mate," but a little head start would help.

I don't play at drum volume a lot. Never have. Now I'm jamming covers with these guys, walking cold into practice rooms, plugging in and struggling to sound good. Struggling to be audible without being too loud.

The backline gear is not the issue. Last night it was a Darkglass Microtubes of some sort (into I-don't-know-what-cab); last time it was an Aguilar Tone Hammer. I'm driving a P with a Lindy through a MarkBass Compressore, into the head. I'm moving my fingers from the neck back to the bridge, trying to find a spot where the E string isn't invisible and the D string isn't massive.

The question, I think, is figuring out what room nodes (is that the term?) are doing to the tonal balance and using EQ to counter them. (In retrospect, I think last night I was primarily standing in a horrible place, next to a wall across the room from the cab.) And also, how to find a place to live alongside the two guitar players and keyboard player.

So yeah. How do you do that? You walk into a room, you're getting set up; where do you start with the EQ?

I start flat & then cut 250 Hz about 3 db. I find 250 Hz is a common freq to resonate in a lot of rooms, and if it’s not, I find it a displeasing tone coming out of most cabinets. If I’m having trouble hearing my bass, I boost high mids first. Your invisible E can benefit from a boost at 80 Hz and / or 160 Hz. The massive D might be tamed by the 250 Hz cut, which is right between the 3rd & 4th harmonic of D fundamental. Cutting 300 Hz would be closer.

That’s about all I can guess from the description.