• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

How many of you do your own electrical work?

#21
It is generally better to learn to do it yourself in a passive bass. At that level it is simple and you will usually get some kind of sound out even if something is incorrectly wired. You really don't even need to know any theory, it's just a matter of connecting things right.

+1 to having Munji do it. Watching someone do it is a good way to learn.
 
#22
I do it myself too. Another nod to the rosin core solder and a good iron, however I have been using a gun lately and I find it amazingly easier to work with. Usually I would use MG lead free solder for stuff like circuit boards etc. but for tasks like instrument wiring the 5050 works much, much better.

--Silvie
 
#23
Citizen Snips said:
Taking into account that I'm broke and that I don't know how to do electrical work, would this be a good decision? I would like to learn eventually, but I'm broke right now and I just want to get my bass fixed ASAP.
Click to expand...

Munjibunga said:
Do you have the new pot? It's a pretty simple matter to put one in, assuming the shaft size is correct. I'd be willing to put it in for you (I'm in San Diego), and you could watch and see how it goes. No charge. I think we could do it at Bass San Diego - I'll check with Chris. PM me with days you would be available to bring it in.
Click to expand...

I'd be all over that if I were you. Get it done and learning simultaneously!?!? Magnifico!
 
#26
eukatheude said:
Why?
Click to expand...

I find it easier to melt. The lead-free stuff takes more heat, so you've got the iron up against the parts longer. The rosin core melts right away and is easy to work, which helps with the relatively large quantities you use (grounding to the backs of pots, for example.)

My proof: used to have a cheap iron that wouldn't even melt the lead-free but made pools of instant molten 5050.

YMMV of course.

--Silvie
 
#27
Citizen Snips said:
Well, one of my basses needs a volume pot replacement and I was looking for a decent welding kit. Then I realized that taking it to a repair shop would be cheaper. Taking into account that I'm broke and that I don't know how to do electrical work, would this be a good decision? I would like to learn eventually, but I'm broke right now and I just want to get my bass fixed ASAP.

So, how many of you do your own electrical work (for your instruments)? Is it difficult?
Click to expand...

How much do you love this bass and do you have material to practice on?

Beginners will often touch the side of the electronics cavity with the iron, leaving a burn mark. Or drop the iron on the bass after hooking the cable into the desk light or something.

Most basses and guitars solder ground to the back of the pot. Beginners might fry the pot. You will need pots to practice on before going to the real thing.

Do you gig? Could you deal with your soldering becoming undone in the wrong moment?
 
#28
When I got back into playing, after I quit college in the mid 70's, I loved a couple hours from the nearest repair place, so I figured I'd better learn to do this stuff myself. And I did. I was soon, rewiring my basses and guitars...putting coil taps in our guitar players' Les Pauls (I read in Guitar Player that Joe Walsh and June Milligan of Fannie, did that) and learned how to fix amps, build effects, etc. With no internet, I read books, magazines and absorbed everything I could. I built many effects pedals that didn't work, put them in a box, and then got them running a couple years later, after I learned more. It is not hard to learn to solder...then learn to read schematics, and wiring diagrams. Just do it. Everything you learn, gets you one step closer to getting good at it.
 
#31
I do my own soldering only which amounts to replacing pickups or some parts but that's the extent.
I wouldn't recommend the dirt cheap MIC soldering irons on ebay. they fall apart after a month anyway so might as well pay 5 or 10 more for something under warranty from the US and A.
 
#32
Do your own! It's a lot of fun and you will learn a lot as you go. You can't really mess up too badly, unless your soldering iron touches the instrument finish or something. I've always done my own, and got started with tips from people I knew and the internet. Youtube is a great resource to learn from, too!
 
#35
Munjibunga said:
Do you have the new pot? It's a pretty simple matter to put one in, assuming the shaft size is correct. I'd be willing to put it in for you (I'm in San Diego), and you could watch and see how it goes. No charge. I think we could do it at Bass San Diego - I'll check with Chris. PM me with days you would be available to bring it in.
Click to expand...

.. very nice, Mike
 
#36
Silver Blues said:
I find it easier to melt. The lead-free stuff takes more heat, so you've got the iron up against the parts longer. The rosin core melts right away and is easy to work, which helps with the relatively large quantities you use (grounding to the backs of pots, for example.)

My proof: used to have a cheap iron that wouldn't even melt the lead-free but made pools of instant molten 5050.

YMMV of course.

--Silvie
Click to expand...

IME it's the same, though when I'm soldering with fresh solder it's actually easier to melt, and the 50/50 i had in my garage (though it was pretty old) used to pop and crackle when i heated it. Though yes, lead free is harder to melt when it's set. Fortunately it's just a practicality issue, i thought there was some specific problem with it about conductivity and whatnot.
 
#37
Hows it cheaper to take to repair place to do pot replacement? You dont use a welder. you use a soldering iron and some solder. Costs less then $10 for both. Add cost of pot.

Done my own electronics upgrades and repairs on basses on guitars since the latter 1970's.
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back