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HOW TO INSTALL UBUNTU STUDIO 9.10 WITHOUT HAVING THE INSTALL #%$&%# FAIL!:

Hmm... The current 13" MacBook Pro (which starts at ~ $200 more than a MacBook) has a FireWire 800 (IEEE 1394b IIRC) port.

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But then any new Mac comes with enough UNIX-derived Apple software that one doesn't need Linux for audio recording.
 
Ooh, an actual Linux thread, interesting! I swear I'm such an idiot -- for several months I saw this thread and stayed away from it because from the title I thought it was just a random "let's diss Linux because it doesn't work" thread. As a Linux software engineer by day, I've been using Ubuntu as my sole OS for both home and work machines for a few years now, but I'm only now starting to feel the urge to record myself playing bass (at which I'm still a relative newbie -- I've been playing seriously for less than 2 years).

So, since I'm here and you guys have more experience than I in that particular domain: what's a good, no-frills 96KHz/24-bit USB 2.0 audio interface with 2 XLR line inputs that works out of the box on Linux for somewhere in the 100-200€ range?
 
Ooh, an actual Linux thread, interesting! I swear I'm such an idiot -- for several months I saw this thread and stayed away from it because from the title I thought it was just a random "let's diss Linux because it doesn't work" thread. As a Linux software engineer by day, I've been using Ubuntu as my sole OS for both home and work machines for a few years now, but I'm only now starting to feel the urge to record myself playing bass (at which I'm still a relative newbie -- I've been playing seriously for less than 2 years).

So, since I'm here and you guys have more experience than I in that particular domain: what's a good, no-frills 96KHz/24-bit USB 2.0 audio interface with 2 XLR line inputs that works out of the box on Linux for somewhere in the 100-200€ range?

Hi Wild_Cat.

:eek: Wow! A real life Ubuntu Linux user who (unlike me) actually knows what they're doing! :)

Pickin's be slim for audio interfaces which work with Ubuntu (ALSA and Pulse Audio to be precise). If you check the first few pages of this thread you'll find some relevant links starting with post #6 onwards.

BTW. I'm still struggling with Ubuntu/Ubuntu Studio. If you see anything in this thread which your experience deems to be at variance with the facts, then please illuminate the particular issue(s) and their appropriate remedies.

Thank you.

Gary
 
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"This thread tries to gather the tricks to jackify some popular media players to have them working with Jack instead of resorting to alsa-jack or pulse-jack plugins, or just using another card.

I am not discovering nothing, just gathering. Thanks to you who posted here and there how to jackify your favourite one and of course and above all, to all the developers involved.

These instructions are tested in ubuntu / ubuntustudio 9.10 although the method will be similar for other versions / distributions. When the contrary is not said, all the packages are installed from the ubuntu official repos, through synaptic or similar method..."
 
Those who prefer to use Ubuntu Studio strictly for music etc may choose to run regular Ubuntu on a different hard drive as their general purpose operating system.

If so, then Ubuntu Tweak: Invalid Link Removed can allegedly automate the configuration of a regular Ubuntu install.
 
A MONEY SAVING/OPTIMIZING TIP:

Adding a device similar to this...

B0000224UB.01.LZZZZZZZ.gif


http://www.leatherman.com/products/product.asp?id=1&f=6&c=1

...to one's belt (it comes with its own holster and is smaller than a cell phone) will allow one to salvage pocket-sized components/upgrades from discarded PCs whenever and wherever one may find them.

Why pay for obsolete PC parts (DDR 400 RAM and PATA 100 & 133 hard drives now cost more than DDR2 RAM and SATA II drives! :eek:) just to upgrade (or repair) one's once formidable, but now elderly machine to optimal Ubuntu Studio performance levels, when the money can be invested in a decent audio interface instead?

The best multi-tools to get are those made of stainless steel (they don't rust).

Portable toolkits have a myriad of other uses too for music gear users and vehicle operators.

I've had one like the model pictured above (which appears to have been superseded by newer versions) for about fifteen years and never leave home without it. It has enabled an unending trickle of computer upgrades and a coincidentally ever-expanding PC hardware know-how.

Also: it's a good idea to carry a folded anti-static bag (like the kind that new RAM and hard drives etc come with) in one's back pocket, and use said bag to put salvaged electronic components in to ensure they aren't damaged by static electricity generated by rustling clothes etc.

--------

A list of things to salvage from DDR SRAM, PATA 100/133, SATA, USB 2.0 & Invalid Link Removed-era Pentium 4 (socket 478 & 775) and AMD Athlon (socket 462 & 754) machines:

- DDR RAM (all speeds).

- Hard drives (PATA 100/133 and SATA & SATA II).

- PATA optical drives (DVD drives are needed to boot into, and install from the Ubuntu Studio DVD)

- Cables (all types, spares are good to have).

- Expansion cards (AGP 3.0 aka 8x, PCI 2.2, PCI Express 16x and 1x).

- Power supplies (350 Watt or greater).

- Monitors (use a salvaged flat-faced CRT or an early LCD monitor for one's desktop, and a purchased DVI wide screen LCD to display audio & MIDI tracks as part of a budget two monitor PC rig/DAW).

- Jumpers & screws (all kinds).

- Whole computers (open the case, take an inventory of its innards, and sniff for any evidence of burnt components: overtaxed power supplies, over-clocked CPUs & graphics cards, and hard drives which cooked due to poor case ventilation/cooling).

FTR: heat - and stock CPU fan noise - are a BIG problem for home recordists re faster (2.8 GHz+) Pentium 4s (a 'silent' variety of after-market CPU chiller must be used) but not much of an issue with equivalent AMD processors (1.8 GHz+) due to their much lower clock speed and correspondingly lower heat generation. (The folks at American Micro Devices are correct in their claim that there's more to achieving good CPU performance than sheer speed. However, big numbers do sell big...)
 
FTR: heat - and stock CPU fan noise - are a BIG problem for home recordists re faster (2.8 GHz+) Pentium 4s (a 'silent' variety of after-market CPU chiller must be used) but not much of an issue with equivalent AMD processors (1.8 GHz+) due to their much lower clock speed and correspondingly lower heat generation. (The folks at American Micro Devices are correct in their claim that there's more to achieving good CPU performance than sheer speed. However, big numbers do sell big...)


As a general note, the Pentium IV (all incarnations of it) may very well be the worst CPU ever released by Intel. It's overpriced, oversized, sucks up a ton of power and a Pentium M (the laptop-specific CPU Intel developed at the same period) half its frequency (and a tenth its power usage) runs circles around it.

Regarding the noise, another common problem is that the stock fans on any current-gen CPU (be it Intel or AMD) are vastly undersized, and as a result have to run at max speed almost all the time (while reducing the lifespan of your CPU because it still runs too hot). If you have one, do yourself a favor and replace it. Brands like Noctua and CoolerMaster make very good, silent, aftermarket replacements that cost less than 20 bucks.

For more information about how to optimize a PC for silence, check out http://silentpcreview.com/
 
For those who've collected enough components to assemble what amounts to a powerhouse PC/DAW from yesteryear: a range of affordable (Invalid Link Removed) and quiet PC cases (please note: the Sonata III 500 does not have dual layer side and top panels for sound-deadening), three of which come with a good quality power supply:

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As a general note, the Pentium IV (all incarnations of it) may very well be the worst CPU ever released by Intel. It's overpriced, oversized, sucks up a ton of power and a Pentium M (the laptop-specific CPU Intel developed at the same period) half its frequency (and a tenth its power usage) runs circles around it.

Regarding the noise, another common problem is that the stock fans on any current-gen CPU (be it Intel or AMD) are vastly undersized, and as a result have to run at max speed almost all the time (while reducing the lifespan of your CPU because it still runs too hot). If you have one, do yourself a favor and replace it. Brands like Noctua and CoolerMaster make very good, silent, aftermarket replacements that cost less than 20 bucks.

For more information about how to optimize a PC for silence, check out http://silentpcreview.com/

+1 Keeping it cool means keeping it quiet.

And I'll add Zalman to the list of CPU cooler makers worth investigating (I've got a near-whisper quiet Zalman CNPS7000B-AlCu running in place of the P4 Prescott's near-dust buster LOUD stock cooling fan).

Here's a couple of forums for seeking help in taming PC heat & noise etc:

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http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/index.php?
 
Considering a FireWire audio interface?

"Matching Your Motherboard To Your Firewire Audio Interface

Therefore, it is a good idea to do a bit of research to determine in advance if your motherboard is compatible with your Firewire interface. The general consensus is that the Texas Instruments Firewire controller is the one to have – this is compatible with pretty much any audio interface out there. VIA Firewire controllers are supported by many audio interfaces also; but you should check the website of the sound card’s manufacturer to make sure that it will work.

It’s not simply a case of getting a TI controller and all will be well; it’s a matter of compatibility. For example, the ideal controller for the Focusrite Saffire Pro 26 is the Via VT6306 VIA Fire II chipset – but many other chipsets will work also. Generally speaking, the TI is the one to have because it is compatible with a broader range pro audio interfaces, but most people will only be using one interface (or maybe two).

Many people advise against the Ricoh Firewire controller; many people also report using them with no problems whatsoever. Again, the demands you’ll be placing on your DAW will determine how important it is to get a TI controller; if you need relatively few channels of audio (e.g. fewer than 20) and don’t use huge numbers of plugins, then the chances of encountering Firewire controller problems are quite small.

On some Dell laptop systems featuring the Ricoh controller, some users’ problems with audio glitching have been solved by replacing the original DVD drive with a Nec DVD drive. As these cases were reported in the middle of last year, I would imagine that Dell now uses the Nec drives as standard with new builds, but it’s worth checking before you buy. Other users have reported that disabling the Wi-Fi card solved their audio problems.
Some Motherboard Suggestions

Here are a few motherboards that may be worth trying if you’re building a new DAW (depending on what audio interface you plan on connecting, of course):

* Texas Instruments Firewire Controller – Gigabyte GA-P35-DS3P
* Texas Instruments Firewire Controller – Asus P5W DH Deluxe
* Texas Instruments Firewire Controller – Asus P5GD2 Deluxe
* Texas Instruments Firewire Controller – Asus A8N-SLI
* Texas Instruments Firewire Controller – Asus P5LD2 Deluxe
* Texas Instruments Firewire Controller – Asus A8N-SLI
* Texas Instruments Firewire Controller – Asus M2N32-SLI Deluxe
* Texas Instruments Firewire Controller – Asus M2N-SLI
* Texas Instruments Firewire Controller – Asus M2N32 WS
* VIA VT6308 Firewire Controller – MSI Neo Family
* VIA VT6308P Firewire Controller – Asus P5K Family"

http://www.podcomplex.com/blog/is-a-ti-firewire-controller-vital-for-your-audio-pc/

Please note: one should Google around for confirmation of Ubuntu compatibility before buying any motherbord or audio interface.
 
Recommended Laptops:

"The following is a list of laptops which are currently being manufacturered and work well with Linux. The criteria of entering this list are that the laptop is still being made, has good support for Linux and doesn't require any difficult configuration work (ie it works well out of the box). Laptops which need the proprietary NVIDIA or ATI drivers are acceptable for this list."

Updated: September 2009

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