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I need help choosing a 6 string bass! Yamaha, Dingwall, Ibanez?

Which one?

  • Yamaha TRB1006j.

  • Dingwall NG3 Adam Nolly.

  • Ibanez BTB806 multiscale.

  • Ibanez EHB1506 multiscale.

  • Eat your carrots and go play the 4 strings you already have.


Results are only viewable after voting.

J_Bass

Supporting Member
Feb 7, 2008
4,857
19,542
Porto, Portugal
Hello fellow TB’ers.


It’s time for it. I want a 6-string bass.





I have narrowed it down to a few realistic options, but I just can’t decide. Unfortunately, I can’t try any of these basses in person; I’d have to import them all except for one.





What I’m looking for in a bass:

- Quality: I don’t want to buy another one after this.
- Versatility: I play all genres (I use a Line 6 HX Stomp XL).
- Good note clarity: I want to be able to play two full octaves vertically in the middle of the neck without a muddy B or a thin C.
- Chords that sound good: Without having to go super high on the fretboard.
- Solid intonation: I need to play in tune across the whole neck.
- A well-defined sound: I want to hear every note clearly.
- Good ergonomics: An upper horn that reaches the 12th fret.
- A strong low B: At least a 35” scale length B.



What is less important to me:

- Weight: Though under 4.5 kg would be nice.
- Electronics: As long as they’re good quality, I’m fine.
- Aesthetics: Not a priority, but blue and green are off-limits.
- Country of manufacture: Doesn’t really matter to me.



What I am unsure about:

- Standard vs. multiscale
- Headless vs. traditional
- String length for the B and C strings



My options:


1. Used 2011 Yamaha TRB1006J

- Pros:
Mint condition
Easiest to get (1h30m drive)
Cheapest option
I can trade one of my basses for it
Plenty of string options available

- Cons:
Looks are a bit boring
35” scale for the C string
Heaviest of the bunch



2. Used Dingwall NG3 Adam Nolly

- Pros:
Mint condition, barely played
37” scale B string
I can trade two of my basses for it

- Cons:
Most expensive option
Wider string spacing
I have to buy it from outside the EU (but still in Europe)
Limited string availability
I would have to ship my basses (and cover the cost)



3. New Ibanez BTB806 Multiscale

- Pros:
Readily available from Thomann
37” scale B string

Cons:
Big body, unusual shape
Hit-or-miss quality control
Limited string availability
34.5” scale C string
I can’t do the “one in, one out” thing



4. New Ibanez EHB1506 Multiscale

Pros:
Lightweight, ergonomic, well-balanced
Available from Thomann

Cons:
35” scale B string
Not sure how I feel about headless basses
I can’t do the “one in, one out” thing



I think that’s everything! I would really appreciate any thoughts, experiences with these basses, or advice you can offer.

Thanks in advance!
 
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in this case I really recommend try before you buy as the result may be different than it seems on paper.

I think you can use a 4/5/6 for anything. Les Claypool played a 6str fretless in primus he had no business playing and sold lots of records. Rock and roll!

The answer is always yes to buying a bass thr question is always which.

That Ibanez is 1500 on sweetwater so for that much cash I would not go in blind. Not all 6 are made the same. Skinny necks annoy me but too thick feels like an aircraft carrier to me.

YMMV imo and post pics when you can!
 
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Have you played any other 6 strings before? Are you just making the jump from 4 to 6? Have you played any multiscales before?

If no and you're jumping in blind chances are it won't be the last bass you buy either way.

I'd go Dingwall but lots of folks dont like chords with fan frets so I'd probably suggest the cheapest / easiest until you you're looking for.

Although, I'm sure Thomann has a decent return policy if you went that route and discovered you dont gel with it.
 
Such a personal choice.

I don’t feel the need for multiscale necks as my MTD has a great B string (35”) as does my Yamaha BB (34”).

Ibanezes don’t do it for me, so I’d be looking at the other two. I’ve owned the Yamaha, and whilst it was my first 6 string, the neck was somewhat chunky for my taste. Good instrument though. Get it in the right colour (red or black) and they’re nice basses.
 
The Ibanez EHB1506 has a lot of pluses, but unfortunately the electronics are not among them in my opinion. That's too bad, because It has an incredible fat sounding low B, with the truest fundamental of any 5 or 6 I've played, and it's light and well balanced. The fanned fret design is not daunting, especially if you don't look at the fingerboard while you're playing :). I thought about getting one and replacing the electronics, as there were some used ones available pretty cheap in my area, but that was a little too much of gamble for me.

I had Dingwall 6 for a short time and I found it a little hard to navigate the upper frets - it sounded great, though.

I tried a Roscoe 6, and I thought it played great but the sound was very lacking in personality.

Another good choice might be a used MTD K6, if you can find one - they're not that expensive, maybe in the $1400-1500 range by now.

The Yamaha TRB1006 might actually be the safest bet among the choices you mentioned - I'd say give it a try if you're willing to make the drive.
 
In any case, pay very close attention to where the "neutral" fret point is - i.e. which fret is completely perpendicular? Usually, it is at about the 7th fret. If it is at a lower fret, the fret angle will be less in the first five frets, making them easier to reach and fret accurately. If the neutral point is above the 7th fret, the frets below there will be more difficult but the ones above the 12th will be easier.

Compare that to the ordinary position of your fretting hand at various points on the neck. For most people bending the index finger back (away from the hand) in lower positions to match the angle of the frets is difficult and not reliable. Conversely, at the 12 fret and above your fingers will naturally lie at an angle (similar to the angle of the frets) because at some point your arm comes up against your body and makes it difficult or impossible to keep your arm totally perpendicular to the neck.

I swapped out a neck on a custom bass to resolve this issue for myself. I wanted less fret angle in the lower positions and found more angle above the 12th suited my fretting hand technique.
 
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The multi scale is 'better' for everything except chording on a extended bass. If chording isn't a priority, or you're willing to adapt... well this gets easier
I have 35" MTD 5-string, and I can say the G is on the edge of over-tensioned, a high C on this would definitely be over-tensioned.

I have a Dingwall, it's an amazing instrument and would be my choice for a 6-string.
 
I've mainly played sixes for many years. If you really want to explore chords on the bass I would avoid multiscale. Some voicings are significantly more difficult while others can be marginally easier. I would very much disagree that multiscale is better than standard scale for six string basses in other respects. B string clarity will vary by builder but there is no reason you can't have a great sounding B string at 34" (or shorter). By contrast, C strings start to sound/feel pretty weird at scales over 34" IMO.

You will get much more bass for your money if you buy used. I personally wouldn't buy any of those basses at new prices.
 
STR makes an excellent 6 string, and they are usually half as much used as new. But Roscoe makes a lovely bass as well. I'm not a fan of mos Carvin 6 strings but the BB76 (the Bunny Brunel model) I played was also a keeper.
 
The LTD B series 6 string has been good to me. I ended up going that way mostly due to price, it’s one of the least expensive options to get into a 6 string. I actually was in the market for a 5 string but went with the 6 because I wanted the 35” scale for the low B. Personally, I really like the feel of the B on this bass but I hardly ever use the C string. So in that regard it has been a good learning experience for me whenever I choose another extended range bass.
 
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I have an EHB-1506MS.

There are some major pros for that bass- it is ridiculously lightweight and small (lighter than most of my long-scale 4-strings and fits in a guitar gig-bag due to the lack of headstock), the Nordstrand pickups sound great (clear and punchy) but also quite inherently aggressive (a pro for me, but not for everything), the low-B has great punch and authority, to me the neck feels great, can fit most long-scale string sets without issue.

Cons (IMO)- mine needed some significant spot-leveling of frets to dial in low action (fortunately easy enough for me to do at home), the "ergonomic" body contouring on the rear isn't really that ergonomic to me and can make the bass sit at a strange angle depending on how high you wear the strap, particularly the C string and to a lesser degree G string stick out as being noticeably thinner-sounding to me than the others (to be fair I haven't played around a lot with different strings to try to fix this and part of it may be needing to adjust hand position as you move up the strings to maintain consistent tone), chording up the neck is not natural or intuitive to me with the multiscale design, the angled bridge makes it hard to cleanly palm-mute which is a big technique for me when picking or plucking, the pickups locations of both pickups are relatively closer to the bridge than the respective Jazz-bass positions so the tones are generally thinner and more aggressive than a typical Jazz or P-bass, I like the semi-parametric midrange and treble controls well enough on the stock preamp but the bass control goes from thin to dub in a very small twist of the knob ( I actually end up using the bass in passive much of the time), the strings clamps on the head end of the bass can easily cut through strings if you aren't careful (flatwounds and some round-core strings are particularly susceptible).

I actually quite like the bass despite the longer list of cons, but not sure if I'd recommend it as a main "do-it-all" bass unless I was doing lots of fly-dates where its size and weight would make it an easy choice- its tone leans heavily towards aggressive sounds with the stock parts. That said, I've seen a couple guys on Instagram use 1506s in Jazz, R&B and funk so it can be versatile if you work with it enough- the R&B guy swapped out the pickups with MECs though to be fair. I also don't think I would pay the new price for one (I picked mine up used at a great price in the TB classifieds, and the new price has gone up significantly since then).


To me the Yamaha sticks out as probably the best potential for a "do-it-all" instrument on your list, with the plus of being something you can try before you buy and being the cheapest option. At least for me, multiscale just isn't the greatest for chording though it has benefits in other ways. I also don't mind the longer-scale C strings at all.
 
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Voted Dingwall out of principle (bias).

That being said, I have the incredible privilege of living near Bass Central and was sold on Dingwall after putting my hands on one. Many (including myself) will recommend them on the spot but that’s still a lot of cash upfront for something you can’t be 100% certain about. Though I suppose that’s true for most of your other options. If you click with it, you won’t want for anything else. The bottom string is 33.25” scale on their 6-strings FYI.
 
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