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If I want to make a neck narrower...

Belt sander, maybe. Seems kinda sketchy, though. But will cut wood and metal and sanding usually doesn't involve tearout as the bites are small. Want to watch out for overheating the frets though, so probably light touch and go slowly, stopping before things get toasty.
 
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In addition to wanting the narrower string spacing, I forgot to mention that somebody previously did a very bad fret job where they ended up removing 16th of an inch in spots of the fingerboard. So narrowing it will not only give me the spacing that I like better but it will also allow me to square the fingerboard again.
 
Yes, you can cut a neck narrower, with the frets in place, using a large flat file. A standard file will cut the wood and the fretwire at the same time. Clamp the neck horizontally in a vise, fingerboard toward you, and stroke the file only in the direction pushing the frets into the wood. Don't drag the file back toward you, which might catch on the frets and pull them up. Obviously, work carefully so you don't cut dips in the edge of the neck between the frets.

Do the narrowing and shaping with a Bastard or 2nd Cut file. When you've got the width and shape where you want it, switch to a Smooth. Then go over the ends of the frets with a #2 Swiss file to get the Smooth file marks out. Then sand the edge of the neck to the level you want, probably 220 grit. And redo the ends of the frets, bevel, rounding, polish.
 
Exactly as Bruce describes above - I've done precisely this more than once to narrow a neck. Word to the wise, it obviously won't work with a bound neck, and secondly, watch the side dot on the third fret as when the neck gets narrower, you will also thin that side dot. I've not had one come out, but depending on the manufacturer, they aren't always very deep. :) Lastly, depending on how you like your string spacing you may need to cut a new nut to get better spacing back and to ensure your outer strings aren't too close to the sides.
 
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I don't mean to be a stick in the mud, but, ..., well, I'm gonna propose it anyway.

Have you considered that manually narrowing the neck (and any subsequent fret work) might cost more than just buying a replacement Jazz bass neck? (It's not like they're all that hard to find, and you can probably get a MIM one for about $350, maybe even a bit less.)

Aside from the previous fret hack job you mentioned, it'd have to come out better than what you're proposing. Of course, you're kinda stuck with the previous neck (because it'll be hard to sell one that's missing 1/16" of fingerboard).
 
I don't mean to be a stick in the mud, but, ..., well, I'm gonna propose it anyway.

Have you considered that manually narrowing the neck (and any subsequent fret work) might cost more than just buying a replacement Jazz bass neck? (It's not like they're all that hard to find, and you can probably get a MIM one for about $350, maybe even a bit less.)

Aside from the previous fret hack job you mentioned, it'd have to come out better than what you're proposing. Of course, you're kinda stuck with the previous neck (because it'll be hard to sell one that's missing 1/16" of fingerboard).

Um....This is Luthiers' Corner. We like shaping wood and metal to make our basses better. That's what we live for around here. And he asked us if and how a neck could be narrowed. And yes, it's actually a fairly simple procedure. Done correctly, it would come out at least as good quality as a factory neck. Even if you hired one of us to do it, it would be much less than $350 of work.
 
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Narrower at the nut. I don't see how fret ends would bother thickness. I prefer Jazz spacing to P.
With all due respect, and as @ArteK said, it is usually less expensive in the long run, especially if the neck has standard Fender-style dimensions, to purchase a new neck with the preferred width at the nut. Much better results; much less chance of ****-ups. This will also give you the opportunity in the order process to upgrade or change other details that you may not like about the neck now.
 
With all due respect, and as @ArteK said, it is usually less expensive in the long run, especially if the neck has standard Fender-style dimensions, to purchase a new neck with the preferred width at the nut. Much better results; much less chance of ****-ups. This will also give you the opportunity in the order process to upgrade or change other details that you may not like about the neck now.

I've got to disagree with that. Even if he were to have the whole job done by a Pro Luthier, it would be less expensive than a new neck. Here in my shop, narrowing a Fender-style neck from P to J width would be about $150 total, including touching up the finish and a new nut.

If he did the job himself, it would be a few hours' work.
 
Ive got to mention an obvious benefit to buying a new neck that somehow hasn't been mentioned yet.
At the end of the project you would have two necks instead of one.
I do believe the skilled luthiers here make a good point, and could have a great result using their expertise with great tools.
It seems as though the OP may not have the experience for what seems like a pretty complicated job. His profile states "I don't know what I'm doing"
I have a decent amount of wood shop experience. I would not attempt it.
 
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As very much a newbie, I've got to offer a little encouragement for the "try it yourself" approach with this kind of thing, if you're able. It's the only way to learn. Sure, you might mess up. Worst case scenario, you have to buy a new one AND you've learned how not to narrow neck. By my count, that's one lesson ahead just buying a new neck to start.

But you'll probably be fine. And you might learn you enjoy it, and then start thinking about the next thing you want to tweak...
 
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Why not? I'm curious. You can't file a piece of wood down to a lower height, making it straight and flat? This isn't difficult at all.
It's the metal frets embedded in the wood being cut at all at once that gives me pause. I also read the OPs profile, which suggests that he is not an experienced woodworker.
I've also had great results with a low priced necks.
I'm an experimenter with a lust for making questionable mods.
However the neck is the most critical part of a bass, where the most precision is involved. So I think another viewpoint can be considered.