Do I have to pull all the frets, then trim the wood, then refret? Is there an easier way to do it? Is there something that would cut through the fret wire and the wood simultaneously without tearing things out? TIA.
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Narrower at the nut. I don't see how fret ends would bother thickness. I prefer Jazz spacing to P.I have to ask, why?
Thinner front to back or narrower from the nut?
I don't mean to be a stick in the mud, but, ..., well, I'm gonna propose it anyway.
Have you considered that manually narrowing the neck (and any subsequent fret work) might cost more than just buying a replacement Jazz bass neck? (It's not like they're all that hard to find, and you can probably get a MIM one for about $350, maybe even a bit less.)
Aside from the previous fret hack job you mentioned, it'd have to come out better than what you're proposing. Of course, you're kinda stuck with the previous neck (because it'll be hard to sell one that's missing 1/16" of fingerboard).
By "summary listings", do you mean the TB front page?Oh, sorry. It appeared in the “summary” listings so I didn’t notice the context.
Please ignore the old fool in the corner and rip it up at will.
Oh, sorry. It appeared in the “summary” listings so I didn’t notice the context.
Please ignore the old fool in the corner and rip it up at will.

With all due respect, and as @ArteK said, it is usually less expensive in the long run, especially if the neck has standard Fender-style dimensions, to purchase a new neck with the preferred width at the nut. Much better results; much less chance of ****-ups. This will also give you the opportunity in the order process to upgrade or change other details that you may not like about the neck now.Narrower at the nut. I don't see how fret ends would bother thickness. I prefer Jazz spacing to P.
Do I have to pull all the frets, then trim the wood, then refret? Is there an easier way to do it? Is there something that would cut through the fret wire and the wood simultaneously without tearing things out? TIA.
With all due respect, and as @ArteK said, it is usually less expensive in the long run, especially if the neck has standard Fender-style dimensions, to purchase a new neck with the preferred width at the nut. Much better results; much less chance of ****-ups. This will also give you the opportunity in the order process to upgrade or change other details that you may not like about the neck now.
I would not attempt it.
It's the metal frets embedded in the wood being cut at all at once that gives me pause. I also read the OPs profile, which suggests that he is not an experienced woodworker.Why not? I'm curious. You can't file a piece of wood down to a lower height, making it straight and flat? This isn't difficult at all.