If you are like me, my old eyes really appreciate good lighting for anything I do that requires close observation or measuring! enjoy the good light!…as the book says “let there be light”
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Inside The Secret Underground Laboratory
- Thread starter Bruce Johnson
- Start date
Making up the twin LED shop fixtures:
The LED lamps I use:
I've tried a few different brands and types of these new-fangled LED strip light fixtures, and these are my favorites. They are made by Barrina, and are available on Amazon for $53 for a pack of 8 of them. Surprisingly cheap, and they seem to be well designed and good quality. I've bought 9 packs of them so far!
I don't see a specific model number on them, but the particular features are that they are 4' length, T5 size, 20W, with the full frosted diffuser, and they are 5000K color temperature.
I highly recommend that you get LED lamps with the diffuser. Some models don't have the diffuser; you can see the long row of little rectangular LED modules. They are too bright for safe use in a shop. You get temporary stars in your eyes if you look right at them. With the diffuser, the light is softer and less concentrated. You can look right at the lights without any disruption of your vision. This is important when running machines!
The color temperature of the lamps is personal preference. Most LED lamps are available in your choice of 4000K, 5000K and 6000K. 4000K is somewhat yellow/amber, fairly close to natural sunlight through a window. Some people prefer that for a woodworking shop. 6000K is brighter, icy white. Better illumination of details in a machine shop environment, but a lot of bright glare off of shiny metal surfaces. 5000K is a nice compromise, white color without too much glare. That's my preference.
Durability/lifetime: Barrina claims that these lamps have a 5 year lifetime. Total hours run time. That is, if you leave them on continuously, they will last 5 years. If they are only on 8 hours per day, they should last 15 years. So far, that's been my experience. I've only had two burn out so far, and they were about 5 years old, on all the time. Some of the first ones I bought. They also give you some warning before they die. A few dark spots and some flickering for a month, then they shut off.
One exception: I've built one Quad fixture with four of the Barrina lamps wired together in series. Two of the four died after about 2 years of part time use. I'm not sure why. They say that you can daisy-chain up to 8 of them together.
Wiring the LED lamps:
Each box of the Barrina LED lamps comes with a whole collection of connector cables and fittings. The lamps have special 3-pin connectors on each end, one male and the other female. There are power cords, connector cords, direct connector plugs, mounting clips, etc.
This is the standard power cord. About 5' long with a little switch in the middle. Not really suitable for an industrial shop. So, I make up my own, heavier duty and made to the right length to neatly fit each lamp.......
I bought a roll of 18ga 2-conductor heavy rubber jacketed cable, in black.
I cut the cable to length, and splice on the two ends of their power cable, soldering the joints.....
and sealing them up with heat shrink tubing.....
...To make a neat, custom-fit, industrial grade power cable!
The LED lamps I use:
I've tried a few different brands and types of these new-fangled LED strip light fixtures, and these are my favorites. They are made by Barrina, and are available on Amazon for $53 for a pack of 8 of them. Surprisingly cheap, and they seem to be well designed and good quality. I've bought 9 packs of them so far!
I don't see a specific model number on them, but the particular features are that they are 4' length, T5 size, 20W, with the full frosted diffuser, and they are 5000K color temperature.
I highly recommend that you get LED lamps with the diffuser. Some models don't have the diffuser; you can see the long row of little rectangular LED modules. They are too bright for safe use in a shop. You get temporary stars in your eyes if you look right at them. With the diffuser, the light is softer and less concentrated. You can look right at the lights without any disruption of your vision. This is important when running machines!
The color temperature of the lamps is personal preference. Most LED lamps are available in your choice of 4000K, 5000K and 6000K. 4000K is somewhat yellow/amber, fairly close to natural sunlight through a window. Some people prefer that for a woodworking shop. 6000K is brighter, icy white. Better illumination of details in a machine shop environment, but a lot of bright glare off of shiny metal surfaces. 5000K is a nice compromise, white color without too much glare. That's my preference.
Durability/lifetime: Barrina claims that these lamps have a 5 year lifetime. Total hours run time. That is, if you leave them on continuously, they will last 5 years. If they are only on 8 hours per day, they should last 15 years. So far, that's been my experience. I've only had two burn out so far, and they were about 5 years old, on all the time. Some of the first ones I bought. They also give you some warning before they die. A few dark spots and some flickering for a month, then they shut off.
One exception: I've built one Quad fixture with four of the Barrina lamps wired together in series. Two of the four died after about 2 years of part time use. I'm not sure why. They say that you can daisy-chain up to 8 of them together.
Wiring the LED lamps:
Each box of the Barrina LED lamps comes with a whole collection of connector cables and fittings. The lamps have special 3-pin connectors on each end, one male and the other female. There are power cords, connector cords, direct connector plugs, mounting clips, etc.
This is the standard power cord. About 5' long with a little switch in the middle. Not really suitable for an industrial shop. So, I make up my own, heavier duty and made to the right length to neatly fit each lamp.......
I bought a roll of 18ga 2-conductor heavy rubber jacketed cable, in black.
I cut the cable to length, and splice on the two ends of their power cable, soldering the joints.....
and sealing them up with heat shrink tubing.....
...To make a neat, custom-fit, industrial grade power cable!
Last edited:
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Nice! I need a flush-mounted light for a smaller space, so these ones by Barrina look like a good option:
Barrina 8640 Panel Light
Barrina 8640 Panel Light
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I put a bunch of these in my basement and they are great. Did it after you posted these the first time.
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Yes, I considered those.
For any of you who haven't seen them, you can get LED strip lamps which are built into a package like a fluorescent tube. They mechanically plug into a standard fluorescent fixture. There are two types: The Plug-In type can be plugged right into the fixture, and operate right from the higher voltage from the fixtures' ballast. The Ballast-Free type mechanically plugs in, but you need to disassemble the fixture to remove the ballast and rewire it a bit. Not difficult to do. The Ballast-Free types are more efficient in power use, and are safer because of the lower operating voltage.
I weighed the options, and a few years ago, the Barrinas that I use were less expensive. And I really wanted to get rid of the metal fluorescent fixtures. They are a safety hazard, because of the way dust builds up on top of them over the years. I also don't like the way the metal reflectors reduce the horizontal spread of the light.
That's why I chose to go with these new Barrina strip lamps. But the LED Fluorescent Tubes are a reasonable option, if you already have fixtures that you like.
BTW, I have about 20 working used fluorescent fixtures that I'll be getting rid of this spring. I'm going to post them on CraigsList for Free! Complete with 12 years of shop dust!
Nope, LED strip lights themselves are dead silent. Their internal electronics are low voltage DC. Their power cords may emit a small amount of 60 hz, like any household electrical wires, but it's low level because of the low current.
The main RF noise that fluorescents are known for is from the higher voltage of the ballasts, which step the 110V up to 500V-800V. That 500V 60 hz signal is that loud continuous hum that you commonly hear from your amp when you are in a room with fluorescent lamps overhead. It's worse if they have old bulbs that are slightly flickering. That's the noise that humbucking pickups are designed to cut out.
The LED lamps that are designed to Plug In to flourescent fixtures will still have some of that higher voltage noise, but at a lower level. The Ballast-Free lamps will not have the noise, because the ballasts are removed.
I have been leary of LED replacements for standard fluorescent fixtures because I bought some several years ago, and they got rather hot, to the point I didn’t trust them. I’ve tried some newer ones in some fixtures, and they don’t seem to work right, sometimes not lighting up at all where a regular fluorescent bulb would. And then there’s the LED floodlights I put in the fixture on the garage that seldom work correctly. It’s an older motion-sensitive fixture, and while occasionally it will work as designed, more often than not it will actually shut off when motion is detected, or start flickering, and in some cases act like a strobe light. I’ve decided it’s best not to continue trying to retrofit modern LED bulbs into most older fixtures and to replace the whole unit outright.
Unless my house is haunted, which is a distinct possibility. It was built in the mid-1800s.
Unless my house is haunted, which is a distinct possibility. It was built in the mid-1800s.
Meanwhile, back to the installation of the new Barrinas in my machine shop:
Here's how I make up the twin 4' fixtures:
The "frame" of the fixture is 1" PVC pipe from Home Depot. Four 10' lengths sawn into (12) 40" lengths to make up (6) twin fixtures. I deburred the ends and drilled 1/4" holes through, 2" in from each end. So, the holes are 36" apart.
I cut (12) 12" lengths of 16 ga steel wire......
And (12) 40" lengths of 16 ga Jack Chain.
The wire gets bent into a V.........
...And inserted through the holes in the pipes, bent partway around the other side, and secured with a strip of Packing Tape. And going through the last loop of the chain. That's the structure of the frame. These LED lamps are so lightweight, that's all that is necessary.
I set each pipe on top of a Lamp, with 2" overhanging, and put a single wrap of Packing Tape around the lamp and the pipe, at each end. The tape has plenty of strength to hold the lamp. Whenever I need to replace the lamp, I slice the tape with a knife and tape up a new one.
There's the fixture with the lamps attached. One of the main reasons that I chose to use the PVC pipe is that it is round on top. Dust won't tend to collect and pile up on top of these fixtures. Also, the PVC is light weight and impact resistant. These fixtures can take a serious smack with a long board, and they will bounce away with no damage. These LED lamps can take a pretty good smack. I did manage to kill one by dropping it about 6' onto the concrete floor. Nothing shattered, it just went dead.
On one end, I plug in the jumper cord, between the ends of the two lamps......
And stuff the excess length into the end of one of the tubes.
Here's one installed over my Regal 17 lathe. At the ceiling, I use wood screws with washers under the heads, and short lengths of steel wire, bent into a hook. 3' apart. I hook the chains on the hooks and adjust the chains up or down a few links to get the fixture level. Then plug in the fitted-length power cord, and tie it up to the chain and across the ceiling to the outlet. That's it, it's operational!
That's my favorite position for the lamps over top of a machine tool like that lathe. It's 7' off the floor and about 6" forward of the centerline of the lathe. That puts plenty of light on the forward side of the machine parts, without any shadow from me standing in front of it.
The light level from the twin 5000K Barrina lamps is just right for a metalworking machine like this. Bright enough to see everything well, with good contrast, but not so bright that it causes eyestrain.
Note the wide spread of the light from the Barrinas. It's a full 180 degrees, which helps to light up the walls and ceiling.
Next up: 5 more of them!
Here's how I make up the twin 4' fixtures:
The "frame" of the fixture is 1" PVC pipe from Home Depot. Four 10' lengths sawn into (12) 40" lengths to make up (6) twin fixtures. I deburred the ends and drilled 1/4" holes through, 2" in from each end. So, the holes are 36" apart.
I cut (12) 12" lengths of 16 ga steel wire......
And (12) 40" lengths of 16 ga Jack Chain.
The wire gets bent into a V.........
...And inserted through the holes in the pipes, bent partway around the other side, and secured with a strip of Packing Tape. And going through the last loop of the chain. That's the structure of the frame. These LED lamps are so lightweight, that's all that is necessary.
I set each pipe on top of a Lamp, with 2" overhanging, and put a single wrap of Packing Tape around the lamp and the pipe, at each end. The tape has plenty of strength to hold the lamp. Whenever I need to replace the lamp, I slice the tape with a knife and tape up a new one.
There's the fixture with the lamps attached. One of the main reasons that I chose to use the PVC pipe is that it is round on top. Dust won't tend to collect and pile up on top of these fixtures. Also, the PVC is light weight and impact resistant. These fixtures can take a serious smack with a long board, and they will bounce away with no damage. These LED lamps can take a pretty good smack. I did manage to kill one by dropping it about 6' onto the concrete floor. Nothing shattered, it just went dead.
On one end, I plug in the jumper cord, between the ends of the two lamps......
And stuff the excess length into the end of one of the tubes.
Here's one installed over my Regal 17 lathe. At the ceiling, I use wood screws with washers under the heads, and short lengths of steel wire, bent into a hook. 3' apart. I hook the chains on the hooks and adjust the chains up or down a few links to get the fixture level. Then plug in the fitted-length power cord, and tie it up to the chain and across the ceiling to the outlet. That's it, it's operational!
That's my favorite position for the lamps over top of a machine tool like that lathe. It's 7' off the floor and about 6" forward of the centerline of the lathe. That puts plenty of light on the forward side of the machine parts, without any shadow from me standing in front of it.
The light level from the twin 5000K Barrina lamps is just right for a metalworking machine like this. Bright enough to see everything well, with good contrast, but not so bright that it causes eyestrain.
Note the wide spread of the light from the Barrinas. It's a full 180 degrees, which helps to light up the walls and ceiling.
Next up: 5 more of them!
My electrician changed mine to the ballast free type and removed the ballast. They had a deal on the service. I love them.
I finished installing the new twin LED fixtures in the Big Machine shop. Five of them.
There it is! Much better lighting over all the machines. Now I want to get to work on them! Most of them need various repairs and upgrades.
The poor old Leblond Regal 13 is going to get a cleanup and some work in the next few weeks. I just got a new 5C Collet Closer Chuck for it, and I need to machine up a backing plate to mount it. I've had it fitted with this big 4-jaw chuck for years, just for doing odd-shaped jobs. And long jobs, up to 4' long. Now the 4-jaw task is going over to the old 1929 Hendey in the Antique shop bay. And the Regal 13, with the Collet Chuck, will take over the heavier-duty small parts jobs. An example is the stainless tuner posts that I make up for my Scroll Basses. They are kind of a struggle on the Logan. The Regal 13 has 3X the mass and horsepower as the Logan. The new lighting will make it enjoyable to use, as it peels off that stainless.
The new lighting is also a big improvement for the big Kondia Milling Machine.
And for the Oliver HD Die Filer and the Diamond Horizontal Mill. They will both be getting more use now.
The 6th LED fixture of this batch will get mounted over the old Hendey lathe.
That's enough of the new lights for now.......I've got to get back to work on my Scroll Basses.
There it is! Much better lighting over all the machines. Now I want to get to work on them! Most of them need various repairs and upgrades.
The poor old Leblond Regal 13 is going to get a cleanup and some work in the next few weeks. I just got a new 5C Collet Closer Chuck for it, and I need to machine up a backing plate to mount it. I've had it fitted with this big 4-jaw chuck for years, just for doing odd-shaped jobs. And long jobs, up to 4' long. Now the 4-jaw task is going over to the old 1929 Hendey in the Antique shop bay. And the Regal 13, with the Collet Chuck, will take over the heavier-duty small parts jobs. An example is the stainless tuner posts that I make up for my Scroll Basses. They are kind of a struggle on the Logan. The Regal 13 has 3X the mass and horsepower as the Logan. The new lighting will make it enjoyable to use, as it peels off that stainless.
The new lighting is also a big improvement for the big Kondia Milling Machine.
And for the Oliver HD Die Filer and the Diamond Horizontal Mill. They will both be getting more use now.
The 6th LED fixture of this batch will get mounted over the old Hendey lathe.
That's enough of the new lights for now.......I've got to get back to work on my Scroll Basses.
Here's the 6th of this batch of new LED fixtures, mounted over my recently acquired 1929 Hendey lathe, in my Antique Machine Shop:
That's good lighting for it. Sometime this spring or summer, I want to get it cleaned up and running.
That's good lighting for it. Sometime this spring or summer, I want to get it cleaned up and running.
Awesome machines!!
Must be fun to get them running, but also to work with them afterwards!
Must be fun to get them running, but also to work with them afterwards!
I installed this type in my kitchen a few years ago. They work great. I didn't remove the ballast but I did cut it off the mains, and coiled and capped the wires and labelled the ballast with a brief description of how the fixture is currently wired, for whomever may have to deal with them next (might be me in a dozen years, having totally forgotten what I'd done earlier). In hindsight I could've removed the ballast but at the time I wasn't certain whether I could trust the LEDs so I wanted it around for backup.
My fluorescent replacements have been dead-quiet. Broadly speaking LED lights with poor-quality AC-DC converters can be noisy. I've got some "dimmer-compatible" LED bulbs that sometimes hum at full power, audibly scream when dimmed, and when I attempted to replace the old rheostat dimmer with the bulb manufacturer's recommended electronic dimmer they would strobe.
With the cool new lighting over it, I couldn't wait to get to work on the Regal 13 lathe!
Here's the machine. It's a 1947 LeBlond Regal 13" Engine Lathe, with a 8' bed. A 1 1/2 hp motor, weighs about 2100 lbs. A nice high quality sturdy mid-size metal lathe. Thousands of them were sold to military production plants during the war years, After the war, most of them went to trade schools. Many of them are still around today, after decades of light-duty use in High School shops and then home garage machine shops.
This one was given to me, for free, almost 25 years ago. A movie business sets & props house that I was doing some work for was closing down. This lathe was in the back room, and the owner said I could have it if I could haul it away. So I did. He was just going to send it to the scrap yard.
It's in pretty good shape mechanically. The main ways are surprisingly clean with minimal wear. The tailstock and the tailstock ways have some serious wear. This machine obviously spent part of its life doing some kind of a drilling operation. I got it operational back in my shop in Burbank around 2003, and got some use out of it for a few years. Then I found the Regal 17, which is bigger and stronger and in better condition. It took over my heavy lathe work. And the poor Regal 13 didn't get much use for about 15 years. I moved it up here to Fillmore in 2013 and parked it in a dark corner. I kept that 16" 4-jaw chuck on it and used it for odd jobs.
But now it's got a new purpose! With a new chuck and fresh lighting! I'm switching it over to a collet-closer style chuck which holds standard 5C collets. The same collets that I use in my Logan lathe, for making most of the small parts for my basses. Truss rod barrels, tuner posts, strap buttons, etc. Some of those parts are a struggle on the Logan, if they require much metal removal. The Logan is only 1/2 HP, and it has a noisy feed geartrain. Converting the Regal 13 to doing collet-size work will make peeling stainless off of tuner posts faster and more pleasant. The Regal 13 is going to become my big lathe for small work.
Here's the 5C Collet Closer Chuck, made in China, new on Ebay for $125. Amazing precision and quality for the price.
The chuck has a plain back mounting, a pattern of three 8mm bolts and a precision round recess.
To mount the chuck on this lathe, I need to make up a Backing Plate. This is the adapter which connects the chuck to the lathe's spindle. It has to be accurately machined, so that the chuck ends up centered on the spindle within less than 0.001". Years back, I bought this blank cast iron backing plate, which was already machined with the correct thread to fit on the Regal 13's spindle. I got it from a guy who also had a Regal 13, and he was machining up several new backing plates for himself, with the special custom thread. So, I paid him to make up an extra one for me. I knew I'd need it someday.
I dug it out of my piles of spare machine parts, cleaned it up, and check fitted it onto the Regal 13's spindle. A perfect fit on the threads and shoulder. I took it back off, did a careful layout, and drilled and tapped the three M8 x 1.25 threaded holes through it. Back on the spindle, cleaned and tightened up. I turned the front face flat and true, then I machined the face back leaving a 1/8" high shoulder in the center. Slightly larger in diameter than needed.
Then I took my time, took careful measurements, and turned down the diameter of the shoulder to be 0.001" smaller than the ID of the recess in the back of the chuck. Careful, patient work. But the old machine came through, and did the job accurately. It machined its own backing plate.
The chuck fit right on, the first time! A slip fit, with no slop or clearance. Bolted up and snugged down. I haven't checked it with an indicator yet, but I'm pretty sure it's centered within 0.001". That's all I need.
I cleaned up the outer edge of the backing plate, smoothing the sharp edges. And cleaned up the cast iron chips.
It looks like a successful conversion! I'll be putting it to work in another week or so, making up a batch of my custom aluminum strap buttons.
Here's the machine. It's a 1947 LeBlond Regal 13" Engine Lathe, with a 8' bed. A 1 1/2 hp motor, weighs about 2100 lbs. A nice high quality sturdy mid-size metal lathe. Thousands of them were sold to military production plants during the war years, After the war, most of them went to trade schools. Many of them are still around today, after decades of light-duty use in High School shops and then home garage machine shops.
This one was given to me, for free, almost 25 years ago. A movie business sets & props house that I was doing some work for was closing down. This lathe was in the back room, and the owner said I could have it if I could haul it away. So I did. He was just going to send it to the scrap yard.
It's in pretty good shape mechanically. The main ways are surprisingly clean with minimal wear. The tailstock and the tailstock ways have some serious wear. This machine obviously spent part of its life doing some kind of a drilling operation. I got it operational back in my shop in Burbank around 2003, and got some use out of it for a few years. Then I found the Regal 17, which is bigger and stronger and in better condition. It took over my heavy lathe work. And the poor Regal 13 didn't get much use for about 15 years. I moved it up here to Fillmore in 2013 and parked it in a dark corner. I kept that 16" 4-jaw chuck on it and used it for odd jobs.
But now it's got a new purpose! With a new chuck and fresh lighting! I'm switching it over to a collet-closer style chuck which holds standard 5C collets. The same collets that I use in my Logan lathe, for making most of the small parts for my basses. Truss rod barrels, tuner posts, strap buttons, etc. Some of those parts are a struggle on the Logan, if they require much metal removal. The Logan is only 1/2 HP, and it has a noisy feed geartrain. Converting the Regal 13 to doing collet-size work will make peeling stainless off of tuner posts faster and more pleasant. The Regal 13 is going to become my big lathe for small work.
Here's the 5C Collet Closer Chuck, made in China, new on Ebay for $125. Amazing precision and quality for the price.
The chuck has a plain back mounting, a pattern of three 8mm bolts and a precision round recess.
To mount the chuck on this lathe, I need to make up a Backing Plate. This is the adapter which connects the chuck to the lathe's spindle. It has to be accurately machined, so that the chuck ends up centered on the spindle within less than 0.001". Years back, I bought this blank cast iron backing plate, which was already machined with the correct thread to fit on the Regal 13's spindle. I got it from a guy who also had a Regal 13, and he was machining up several new backing plates for himself, with the special custom thread. So, I paid him to make up an extra one for me. I knew I'd need it someday.
I dug it out of my piles of spare machine parts, cleaned it up, and check fitted it onto the Regal 13's spindle. A perfect fit on the threads and shoulder. I took it back off, did a careful layout, and drilled and tapped the three M8 x 1.25 threaded holes through it. Back on the spindle, cleaned and tightened up. I turned the front face flat and true, then I machined the face back leaving a 1/8" high shoulder in the center. Slightly larger in diameter than needed.
Then I took my time, took careful measurements, and turned down the diameter of the shoulder to be 0.001" smaller than the ID of the recess in the back of the chuck. Careful, patient work. But the old machine came through, and did the job accurately. It machined its own backing plate.
The chuck fit right on, the first time! A slip fit, with no slop or clearance. Bolted up and snugged down. I haven't checked it with an indicator yet, but I'm pretty sure it's centered within 0.001". That's all I need.
I cleaned up the outer edge of the backing plate, smoothing the sharp edges. And cleaned up the cast iron chips.
It looks like a successful conversion! I'll be putting it to work in another week or so, making up a batch of my custom aluminum strap buttons.
I did the first real job on the Regal 13 with its new collet chuck! I made up a batch of Bridge Jacking Screws for my AMB-2 model Scroll Basses. This was a good job to test out the new chuck setup.
The jacking screws are made from 1/4-20 x 1 1/2" long stainless setscrews. I clamp them in a collet in the collet chuck, and machine off the threads on the bottom end, to a smooth round section.
Then I cut a second, smaller section, and a small groove. It looks a little silly to be machining such a small part on a lathe of this size, but it works very well.
Here's what the finished jacking screw looks like. The little rubber O-ring snaps into the groove.
Here's the batch of them, all done. The job went very well. It was faster and more enjoyable to machine them on the Regal 13. I had been making them on the Logan for about 20 years. The Regal 13 is so much smoother and quieter.
The jacking screws are made from 1/4-20 x 1 1/2" long stainless setscrews. I clamp them in a collet in the collet chuck, and machine off the threads on the bottom end, to a smooth round section.
Then I cut a second, smaller section, and a small groove. It looks a little silly to be machining such a small part on a lathe of this size, but it works very well.
Here's what the finished jacking screw looks like. The little rubber O-ring snaps into the groove.
Here's the batch of them, all done. The job went very well. It was faster and more enjoyable to machine them on the Regal 13. I had been making them on the Logan for about 20 years. The Regal 13 is so much smoother and quieter.
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I love these precise little engineering details in your builds, Bruce…so much fun!
Rich-Cincy Kid
Gotta love my 5 Ampeg/Bruce J. Scroll Basses
Gold Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Bruce, is this work related to completing The AMB-2 (#19) that you’ve been relatively silent about since mid December, 2025?
Hello Rich;
Yes, it is. I've been finishing up the last of the metal hardware for #019, including the tailpiece, bridge, neck plate, etc. I needed to make up some more of the bridge jacking screws, so I took the opportunity to make up a batch on the Regal 13. Two of them are going in #019.
