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Installing a cap selector switch in a Precision Bass

Can I salvage any useful electronic components from anything nowadays? Like old tvs, radios, vcrs, etc?

Nothing that can't be had at radio shack for $1 or less...unless you feel like ripping apart an old VCR. I used what I used because:

1. I had free access to them
2. Because I could :)

I did spring for a couple of "matched" CTS pots from my guitarist that cost me a whopping $10. All of these mods can be done for less then $20, excluding soldering supplies.
 
Sorry, I am not seeing it. Can you repost? or pm me?

Here's the pic:

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If that doesn't work, try this link.
 
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Nothing that can't be had at radio shack for $1 or less...unless you feel like ripping apart an old VCR. I used what I used because:

1. I had free access to them
2. Because I could :)

I did spring for a couple of "matched" CTS pots from my guitarist that cost me a whopping $10. All of these mods can be done for less then $20, excluding soldering supplies.

Here's my predicament...
The radioshacks in my city are actually now 'The Source' and the last time I went in there to get any kind of part, they had decided to ship everything back to the head office and are now selling everything online only. Which is a major pain in the ass
 
Here's my predicament...
The radioshacks in my city are actually now 'The Source' and the last time I went in there to get any kind of part, they had decided to ship everything back to the head office and are now selling everything online only. Which is a major pain in the ass

That sucks. All types of caps and parts are widely available online but if that's not an option, maybe call a few music stores. Any place that repairs should have a supply of common guitar values on hand.
 
What is the wire called that I would use to solder these components together? Is it just basic circuit board wire or...??

I like to use the "vintage" pushback wire because it is already tinned, which makes things much easier. Most guitar shops should also have this on hand or just get the enamel coated kind. Not really sure what its called but it should be the braided type.
 
If you have an old broken PC lying around (desktop style, not the laptop), they usually have a ton of wire inside going from the power unit to the motherboard and peripherals. It is usually 20 and 22 gauge, good quality stranded wire 100% useable for guitar wiring...
 
I'm thinking of building an outboard cap tester box if anyone else has input. Thought it would be fun on what little spare time I had. Im pretty much just thinking input/pot/switch with caps/output. I'm assuming I can wire a bass with an ON/OFF/ON switch, with the OFF as the open circuit and using that selection to go into the cap box? Or could I just crank the tone pot on my bass. I'm wondering if there's any capacitance occurring with the tone on full and will it transmit to the box, effectively changing the values of the caps in it?
 
The difference between the tone pot fully clockwise and tone bypass (no tone pot at all) is very subtle. You may hear some difference in headphones with the new strings and bass soloed but I am sure it is not detectable in real life situations like mix with other instruments.
 
The difference between the tone pot fully clockwise and tone bypass (no tone pot at all) is very subtle. You may hear some difference in headphones with the new strings and bass soloed but I am sure it is not detectable in real life situations like mix with other instruments.

Thanks. That's what I was figuring but wasn't sure if the tiny bit of capacitance would affect the caps in the box. You've been very helpful, T-34. I'll be sure to keep you posted. I have my trial version about wired up, just waiting on another jack.
 
So I made an outboard version as well. I'm thinking of wiring an ON OFF ON selector to my bass so I can have the middle position completely bypassing the tone pot when I want to use the box (not likely to be very much...just a fun project). Can anyone tell me how both sets of caps (in the bass and the box) are functioning when both are engaged? Am I getting a sum total capacitance between the box and bass? I built a tone pot into the box. So when I choose, say, a .047 on the box and the .047 on my bass, am I getting the total capacitance of those two caps or is one canceling out the other somehow?

My test version comprises a .0047, .01, .022, .047, .068 and .1. I'm going to change these out and swap until I find the most natural progression of tone going upward. I also grabbed a shorting 6 position 2 pole rotary to hopefully eliminate any static pops when cycling through. It's going into a custom pedal board I'm working on. So I'll have my original .01/.047/bypass selector onboard and the rest will go to the box.

Still trying to determine if not bypassing the tone pot completely when using the box is having enough noticeable effect to making a bypass in my bass worth it.
 
I built it into an old tin container I had laying around so I had something to house the components until I finally figure out just what it is I'm trying to accomplish with all this frivolous, time sucking tinkering...
ImageUploadedByTalkBass1381682849.226895.jpg
ImageUploadedByTalkBass1381682981.094427.jpg

The rotary shaft is one of the long ones (on sale at Radio Shack for $.79 cents)
and I used some old knobs, a couple switchcraft jacks and a split shaft 250k CTS I had laying around. The tin had the perfect depth for housing the obnoxiously huge and arguably unnecessary choice of capacitors I went with.
 
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