There are a number of improvements that can be made. Are you capable of doing the work yourself or are you taking it somewhere for service?
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Is EDEN on the way out?
- Thread starter Dilatant
- Start date
No, I would be taking it to someone. There are some local techs that I trust and also want to be as informed as possible.
Do not attempt this modification if you arent sure you can complete safely. I have 20+ years experience in electronics and worked in an authorized Eden repair center from 2003 to 2006.
For mods on the WT series, the 'big one' to do is replace the voltage dropping resistors on the preamp board. They are the four white rectangles for the non-technical folks.
These things get hot, and they can cook the PWB and traces. Mine looked pretty good, but you can see the darker spot on the right
Cleaned up, things look pretty good. I've had some come through the shop that were almost charred. Note the unsoldered jumper wire on the left, I must have taken the photo during their installation
The one that's laying down (R85) doesnt get hot, and I believe it's for the headphone jack.
The value for R74 and R79 is two 5W 500 Ohm in series, so I opted to use a 25W 1K Ohm to simplify everything. I used a Wakefield heatsink (I dont have the part number offhand) and Bergquist thermal gap pads to dissipate the heat. You can use the white heatsink grease, but I like the pads. Resistors are made by Vishay. 25 Watt chassis mount, 1K Ohm 1% tolerance. You can get all the parts I used from Mouser or Digikey.
The heatsink is mounted to the chassis with 4-40x1/2" threaded stainless standoffs (3/16" dia) Make sure you mount it far enough from the edge it doesnt interfere with the fan and use blue thread locker so it doesnt come loose on you. I used stainless undercut flat head hardware so its flush on top and bottom. You will have to drill and tap for the resistor mounting screws. I used 4-40x1/4" stainless socket cap screws with a split washer and loctite.
Electrical connections were made with some leftover M16787/4BGE-0 wire I had from another project. 20AWG fine strand with high temp insulation (200°C PTFE) It may be overkill, but I like overkill.
I may get some comments that those electrical connections should have heatshrink over them to prevent a potential shock. Yeah, they probably should. But the factory ones didn't, and you probably shouldn't have your hands in there when it's on anyway. If I ever have to redo anything in here, I'll rerun the jumper wires and use some heatshrink.
Double check everything, the resistors should drop the +/-78V mains down to around +/-16V. The Zeners in the preamp regulate the rest for the preamp opamps.
For mods on the WT series, the 'big one' to do is replace the voltage dropping resistors on the preamp board. They are the four white rectangles for the non-technical folks.
These things get hot, and they can cook the PWB and traces. Mine looked pretty good, but you can see the darker spot on the right
Cleaned up, things look pretty good. I've had some come through the shop that were almost charred. Note the unsoldered jumper wire on the left, I must have taken the photo during their installation
The one that's laying down (R85) doesnt get hot, and I believe it's for the headphone jack.
The value for R74 and R79 is two 5W 500 Ohm in series, so I opted to use a 25W 1K Ohm to simplify everything. I used a Wakefield heatsink (I dont have the part number offhand) and Bergquist thermal gap pads to dissipate the heat. You can use the white heatsink grease, but I like the pads. Resistors are made by Vishay. 25 Watt chassis mount, 1K Ohm 1% tolerance. You can get all the parts I used from Mouser or Digikey.
The heatsink is mounted to the chassis with 4-40x1/2" threaded stainless standoffs (3/16" dia) Make sure you mount it far enough from the edge it doesnt interfere with the fan and use blue thread locker so it doesnt come loose on you. I used stainless undercut flat head hardware so its flush on top and bottom. You will have to drill and tap for the resistor mounting screws. I used 4-40x1/4" stainless socket cap screws with a split washer and loctite.
Electrical connections were made with some leftover M16787/4BGE-0 wire I had from another project. 20AWG fine strand with high temp insulation (200°C PTFE) It may be overkill, but I like overkill.
I may get some comments that those electrical connections should have heatshrink over them to prevent a potential shock. Yeah, they probably should. But the factory ones didn't, and you probably shouldn't have your hands in there when it's on anyway. If I ever have to redo anything in here, I'll rerun the jumper wires and use some heatshrink.
Double check everything, the resistors should drop the +/-78V mains down to around +/-16V. The Zeners in the preamp regulate the rest for the preamp opamps.
As for the Speakon, you will need to remove the power supply board and Toriod transformer. You can probably get away with just unmounting the components and moving them aside.
I lucked out and have a friend that has a Green Lee panel punch assortment I can borrow. This 0.937 is almost perfect!
I chose to retain one of the 1/4" jacks, because you never know if you might need it. The center bolt fit right in the lower jack hole.
Note I'm punching IN so theres no sharp edges or scuffs on the out side.
Theres a poly coupling cap that's soldered to one of the jacks and is held against the chassis. Make sure you move that to the upper jack.
I'm using PTFE insulated 18AWG wire, daisy chaining off of the Speakon.
I wanted to have it rear mounted so it was nice and flush on the rear panel, but a standard Speakon was not long enough to seat fully. I could buy the longer version, but I would be in a bind if I forgot my cable.
I opted to have the front mounted. The flange also covers the Amp Out text that was cu . I know this is a little crooked, I need to loosen the bottom nut and straighten it.
I'll mention the internal connection to the power supply board in my next post.
Also note this is a 4 pole Speakon connector, I wired it as
+1 Positive
-1 Negative
+2 Positive
-2 Negative
I built my own cable so the top cabinet runs off of '1' and the lower cabinet runs off of '2'. Sure, I could use two off the shelf 3' cables and use the link on the speaker, but this way I have less wire and fewer connections sharing current.
I lucked out and have a friend that has a Green Lee panel punch assortment I can borrow. This 0.937 is almost perfect!
I chose to retain one of the 1/4" jacks, because you never know if you might need it. The center bolt fit right in the lower jack hole.
Note I'm punching IN so theres no sharp edges or scuffs on the out side.
Theres a poly coupling cap that's soldered to one of the jacks and is held against the chassis. Make sure you move that to the upper jack.
I'm using PTFE insulated 18AWG wire, daisy chaining off of the Speakon.
I wanted to have it rear mounted so it was nice and flush on the rear panel, but a standard Speakon was not long enough to seat fully. I could buy the longer version, but I would be in a bind if I forgot my cable.
I opted to have the front mounted. The flange also covers the Amp Out text that was cu . I know this is a little crooked, I need to loosen the bottom nut and straighten it.
I'll mention the internal connection to the power supply board in my next post.
Also note this is a 4 pole Speakon connector, I wired it as
+1 Positive
-1 Negative
+2 Positive
-2 Negative
I built my own cable so the top cabinet runs off of '1' and the lower cabinet runs off of '2'. Sure, I could use two off the shelf 3' cables and use the link on the speaker, but this way I have less wire and fewer connections sharing current.
@AudioTaper so appreciate the time you put into this and the detail is super helpful; thank you!
@Dilatant apologies for hijacking the initial question...if the new Eden is on the way out, the old is still on the way in!
@Dilatant apologies for hijacking the initial question...if the new Eden is on the way out, the old is still on the way in!
My memory isn’t clear, but I think I had to replace those caps because they sat up on skinny legs and were prone to breakage caused by rough roadwork. Once replaced though they lasted forever.
no way, this is awesome. any questions I had about Eden have long been answered, i am SUPER interested in this rabbit hole. thanks for sharing @AudioTaper !
I don’t know which caps, but they were similarly located to the ones you showed. Mine stood up on skinny wire legs that eventually broke. My tech was able to replace them pretty easily.
There were a number of requests for information. I'll move the awesome nerd info here
Eden WT400 repair/mod
My apologies for clogging up the thread.
- Feb 12, 2006
- 61,062
- 5
- 221,097
- Disclosures
- Development Engineer-Mesa Boogie, Development Engineer-Genzler (pedals), Product Support-Genz Benz
Sometimes threads take a small but useful (or entertaining) detour.
Since you are new here, perhaps you can't appreciate the gracefulness of the exchange of information and the more social nature of this particular forum. I suggest that as a newer member, you get a better sense of how this forum works before criticizing members who have been participating for a while.
Eden thread with general Eden talk with added benefit of cool Eden modifications = on topic. Lighten up francis.
Who was Mark Gooday, I thought he was the founder of Eden Electronics based on wikipedia... Eden Electronics - Wikipedia
I wonder if it was an older revision or a previous repair. I dont recall there being cap issues on the preamp board.
Easy fix = Awesome!
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