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Check the string windings on the tuning pegs. Each string needs several windings to push the string low enough where it goes out to the nut. Maybe they wound the pegs upside sown?
Quick check: Press string down and 3rd fret. If string is touching frets 1 and/or 2 the slot might be to low.
Once he's fretting the nut is out of the equation. The real problem is at the first fret in almost all the strings. I'm sure a little more relief in the neck will solve the problem. Unless the second fret is too high in relation with the others....
Hopefully it wasn't shipped out with it setup because if inspected it with it setup goofy he might have heard buzz somewhere else and go "yeah that can be set up better and will go away" then sent it to you and got messed up it's been in a non temperature controlled environment and when he set it up it was different from what the salesman had to say. Or the salesman was lying to you.
Shipped from where? Anyone can say that they'll set it up before shipping it out. It doesn't mean that they're a luthier.
How long has it been since it was set up? Some new basses (dependidng on the aging of the wood) need a bit of time to "set" after a good set up. Also, as long as it is not going through your amp, the small fret buzz is no biggie.
To answer the OP's original question (Is fret buzz after a paid set up acceptable?):
No.
No.
Yeah, duh, I get it, and the "first fret too low" now, too. I blame insufficient caffeine - out of coffee this morning, relying on strong tea instead.
I like tea, don't get me wrong, but it's an inefficient caffeine delivery system.
I set up my own instruments to Fender stock specs and often I still cannot get the action as low as I'd like it without getting buzz. The tech may have set up your instrument to a common spec but it may be a problem with the bass itself like the frets are not perfectly even. I suspect that is the problem with mine seeing as Im very exact with my setup and measurements.
- Jun 6, 2012
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Paid setup is unacceptable lol. Doing your own setup is the only way to go and it's EASY!! 
I generally like to get my action as low as possible and will accept a small amount of buzz, so long as i don't hear it through the amp. You definitely have a problem though. If its only the first fret that buzzes then I would recommend loosening the truss rod 1/4 turn like others have mentioned, then let it sit overnight. I wouldn't touch the string height, it would likely need to be adjusted too high to compensate for this issue.
In all honesty I would return it if possible.
Don'y worry though, if you can't or you just really love the bass, worse case scenario your out 20 bucks to have someone level/dress that 2nd fret for you.
In all honesty I would return it if possible.
Don'y worry though, if you can't or you just really love the bass, worse case scenario your out 20 bucks to have someone level/dress that 2nd fret for you.
One thing that stood out to me: Did you actually pay for a setup?
I believe that Jackson is owned by Fender. Fender dealer agreements state that dealers are obligated to set up instruments before sale. Assuming the dealer agreement is the same, that first setup is supposed to be free.
As other are saying: learn to do your own. A setup is highly personal to your playing style and technique. The generic setup specs will be acceptable for most, but certainly not all.
I believe that Jackson is owned by Fender. Fender dealer agreements state that dealers are obligated to set up instruments before sale. Assuming the dealer agreement is the same, that first setup is supposed to be free.
As other are saying: learn to do your own. A setup is highly personal to your playing style and technique. The generic setup specs will be acceptable for most, but certainly not all.
IMHO, this is why every bassist should learn to setup their own instruments.
A bass is made out of wood and that wood changes with temperature, humidity levels, atmospheric pressure, string tension, etc.
Plus, your playing style may be very different from the guy setting it up.
A few weeks ago I got a new bass and had to adjust the truss to bring the fretboard closer to the strings. Day 1 it was great, no buzz. Day 3 however, it was buzzing and I had to loosen the rod to give it some relief.
After about 2 weeks - with minor adjustments every few days - the bass has now settled down and plays and sound great with no fret buzz.
The best way to achieve that is to have the person who is playing the bass be the same person who is maintaining the bass.
Just my $0.02
A bass is made out of wood and that wood changes with temperature, humidity levels, atmospheric pressure, string tension, etc.
Plus, your playing style may be very different from the guy setting it up.
A few weeks ago I got a new bass and had to adjust the truss to bring the fretboard closer to the strings. Day 1 it was great, no buzz. Day 3 however, it was buzzing and I had to loosen the rod to give it some relief.
After about 2 weeks - with minor adjustments every few days - the bass has now settled down and plays and sound great with no fret buzz.
The best way to achieve that is to have the person who is playing the bass be the same person who is maintaining the bass.
Just my $0.02
If you do not know how to set up the instrument I would take it to some local to you that does. First fret E string buzz sounds like the truss rod needs to be loosen a bit. But it needs to be done right a few steps after it is adjusted, will certainly need to be made once the neck has been corrected such as string height at the bridge saddle an maybe the intonation will be off a hair. As mention it could have been spot on when it left the guy's place but weather conditions can undo of all his hard work pretty quick. Good Luck RTS
Cool video. Unfortunately it provides no data on which to base an opinion or make a diagnosis. That's why the more experienced folks are recommending a trip to a tech.
For a decent crystal ball spit in the hand Kentucky windage diagnosis please measure and post:
For a decent crystal ball spit in the hand Kentucky windage diagnosis please measure and post:
- String height at the twelfth and last frets measured from the top of the fret to the bottom of the string bass and treble sides respectively (usually 64ths of an inch.
- Relief measured at the seventh or eighth fret depending on method (straight edge or capo/string) used (usually expressed in thousandths).
I agree with what everyone else said about learning to do your own set up but for your immediate problem you should go to a local tech and have them look at it. You need to determine if the bass just needs to be set up again from not being done well the first time or movement from shipping, or if there is a problem with the bass. My money would be on temperature and humidity changes or being bumped around during shipping. If the dealer made any adjustments to the truss rod or neck, especially on a new instrument, it could have settled some even without any other factors.
If it's a fret level issue, I wouldn't expect that to be fixed during a setup. On a $550 instrument they are not going to spend the time in the factory to do a full and proper level. A PLEK would also add to the cost and they're trying to hit a price point. Hopefully, I don't sound like a gear snob, just pointing out the economic realities of building to a price point. I would have someone check out the frets.
