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Is there ever a situation which 10" speakers just aren't good enough?

OP, as you can see, many still believe that a certain type of sound, including a certain frequency response, can be attributed solely to driver size.

Then there are others, including me, who have listened to the real audio engineers over the years trying to debunk that myth. It is a myth. I could line up a bunch of 210 cabinets that would all sound radically different, ditto for a bunch of 115's that would all sound quit different from one another. Some (many?) of the 210s would go lower than the most, or all, of the 115's.

You have to realize that there are a slew of parameters that describe speaker performance, and they can take many values for given speaker independent of the driver diameter. The output performance of a speaker cabinet depends on these driver parameters (Thiele/Small parameters, commonly abbreviated as t/s params, Google that if you want to see how far down the rabbit hole goes...) and how the enclosure was designed to work with the drivers in it.

I personally think that all posts in this thread that talk about speaker performance in terms of driver size are pointless. It's a case where there is a common misconception that seems like it should make sense, i.e. larger drivers go lower, but in reality is just doesn't work that way.
 
CL400Peavey says I'm wrong, but advances no reasoning to support his claim. Can't say that I'm surprised. He participated in the thread in which I first coined the Decemite term and...well...let's just say he's consistent.

For one thing, your diatribe ignores low end monsters like Mesa's PH610 and PH810, SWR's Goliath Sr and Megoliath, Ampeg's SVT410-HLF, and ACME's B2 and B4 - all of which can and do handle low end as well or better than most 15" loaded cabs... I regularly slam my PH810 with a low B, and believe me when I say that I don't need any bi-amp setup to carry more than enough low end to cause problems with any FOH...


- georgestrings
 
For one thing, your diatribe ignores low end monsters like Mesa's PH610 and PH810, SWR's Goliath Sr and Megoliath, Ampeg's SVT410-HLF, and ACME's B2 and B4 - all of which can and do handle low end as well or better than most 15" loaded cabs... I regularly slam my PH810 with a low B, and believe me when I say that I don't need any bi-amp setup to carry more than enough low end to cause problems with any FOH...


- georgestrings

+1

And GRollins acts like I am all about 10's. Im not. I am supportive of driver size meaning little in reference to low end production.

There are reasons why larger drivers are used for sub woofers, but it isnt driver size inherently.
 
RS66LB,
Yeah, I'm a big proponent of biamping, but the cost and size/weight can be problematical.

JimmyM,
I often use a Hartke 115XL (older, rectangular logo) with an SWR Big Ben (older one, with Bag End driver). Good combination driven straight, excellent when biamped, which I normally do.
The Acoustic 301 cabinet never quite jelled for me. Yeah, yeah, I know Jaco, et. al. Loud? Undeniable. Tone? Not my cup of tea. Horns, particularly horns where the proper flare rate is only approximated, have incredibly high distortion and that midrange honk/blat that the 301 would do just didn't work out. The Ampeg V4B cabinet was far, far superior in tone. I don't know if such things are available, but try to find cross sections of the 301 and the V4B. Compare the flare rates. When I first got them (I had the SVT [only one cabinet], the 371, and the V4B cabinet all at the same time) I couldn't understand why the 301 and V4B sounded soooo different. It took a while before the flare rate thing dawned on me.

chadds,
I often play open strings and play harmonics or arpeggiate chords over that, so I'm filling the low end and mid/highs at the same time. If your E is doubling then the sound turns rather muddy because you're competing with yourself in the same frequency range. Someone who plays 12 bar blues, for instance, and only one note at a time, would not be faced with that problem. In a sense, I am my own B3. Having a clean, deep low is essential to separate the notes.

Ahhh, the Decemites have arrived...
HolmeBass,
Yes, cabinets sound different (gosh...ya think?). However, if you're going to start tossing out terms like Thiele-Small, then you should spend some time actually using the T-S parameters and a modelling program. You're going to find that drivers such as the Eminence BP-102 come up short when compared with, say, the Omega 18". Be sure to take into account, not only cabinet design, but the Xmax problem I mentioned above.
Big ooops, there...

BassmanPaul,
Sounds as though you, like JimmyM, have found your place. Good for you.

Out of time. I'll try to get back later.

Grey
 
Grey,

You are missing the point. No one is disputing that you cant get louder or have more sensitivity with a single 15" or 18" woofer than a 10" woofer. You can. The quality of the drivers tonal response does not have anything to do with its diameter.

The reason you see large drivers implemented in sub woofers and such is not due to some inherent tone of the driver, but rather economy. It is cheaper and lighter to build a sub woofer of a particular capability with one large driver, in place of multiple small drivers.

If small drivers were incapable of producing low frequencies, then head phones would not work. Since you can go listen to a pair I am sure you have, you can prove to yourself that small drivers can indeed produce low frequencies.

Now as to be expected those head phones are not going to produce enough volume to work as a PA. If you wanted to buy enough of them, and figure out how to wire them off of an amp, I suppose you could use them as a PA.

But you are right, IMHO 10's suck. I will take my current cabs over any commercial 10's.
 
RS66LB,
Yeah, I'm a big proponent of biamping, but the cost and size/weight can be problematical.

JimmyM,
I often use a Hartke 115XL (older, rectangular logo) with an SWR Big Ben (older one, with Bag End driver). Good combination driven straight, excellent when biamped, which I normally do.
The Acoustic 301 cabinet never quite jelled for me. Yeah, yeah, I know Jaco, et. al. Loud? Undeniable. Tone? Not my cup of tea. Horns, particularly horns where the proper flare rate is only approximated, have incredibly high distortion and that midrange honk/blat that the 301 would do just didn't work out. The Ampeg V4B cabinet was far, far superior in tone. I don't know if such things are available, but try to find cross sections of the 301 and the V4B. Compare the flare rates. When I first got them (I had the SVT [only one cabinet], the 371, and the V4B cabinet all at the same time) I couldn't understand why the 301 and V4B sounded soooo different. It took a while before the flare rate thing dawned on me.

chadds,
I often play open strings and play harmonics or arpeggiate chords over that, so I'm filling the low end and mid/highs at the same time. If your E is doubling then the sound turns rather muddy because you're competing with yourself in the same frequency range. Someone who plays 12 bar blues, for instance, and only one note at a time, would not be faced with that problem. In a sense, I am my own B3. Having a clean, deep low is essential to separate the notes.

Ahhh, the Decemites have arrived...
HolmeBass,
Yes, cabinets sound different (gosh...ya think?). However, if you're going to start tossing out terms like Thiele-Small, then you should spend some time actually using the T-S parameters and a modelling program. You're going to find that drivers such as the Eminence BP-102 come up short when compared with, say, the Omega 18". Be sure to take into account, not only cabinet design, but the Xmax problem I mentioned above.
Big ooops, there...

BassmanPaul,
Sounds as though you, like JimmyM, have found your place. Good for you.

Out of time. I'll try to get back later.

Grey

G, me too. Chords, scratches, string rubs, harmonics, low deep B, fat rich mids and highs all at the same time. No mud.
The right gear brings out all the frequencies in all the strings, ala Steinway.
 
paper-cup.jpg
 
It seems (to me) that 10's typically have less upper midrange sensitivity when compared to many 12" extended range 'pa' type drivers however at the same time most bass oriented 10's seem to respond very quickly and typically exhibit a tight, smooth mid bass which (I think) can help achieve a studio like mix fairly easy. With the possibility of generalizing I think the afore mentioned is somewhat factual. Now aside from the plethora of engineering reasons regarding the 'why' it might be better to just discuss general characteristics without getting into a pissing contest (I think it's possible with enough marijuana/ tranquilizers etc.) ...plus it kind of seems that if you really wanted the best qualities from each speaker 'size' group you'd probably have to actively tri-amp your rig anyway -maybe a 4x15, 2x18 etc. to deal with the 25-75 hz range while using a 4x10 (or 8x10) to cleanly reproduce the 75-250hz range while perhaps using a guitar speaker loaded 2x12 (or 4x12) being driven by a nice tube amp, of course there are thousands of variations of what I just mentioned, all of which require financial, technical and physical expenditure which would be a huge detriment to the gigging bassist (techs and roadies don't work for free). I guess it's probably best to just go with what works for you without bitching too much about others 'different' decisions
 
I have a 4x10 Cabs, which for smaller gigs i use just of of them. However for larger gigs, or when its close and i have the extra transportation room, I bring along an extra cab for the bottom, usually its a 1x15, or a 1x18. Depending on which head I'm using, I can bi-amp them, sending the low end thump to the big flappy speaker, and the mid-high to the 10's
 
It seems (to me) that 10's typically have less upper midrange sensitivity when compared to many 12" extended range 'pa' type drivers however at the same time most bass oriented 10's seem to respond very quickly and typically exhibit a tight, smooth mid bass which (I think) can help achieve a studio like mix fairly easy. With the possibility of generalizing I think the afore mentioned is somewhat factual.
The fact that one can find many cabinets with the exact same speaker sizes and configurations that totally defy that generalization means it's not at all factual. Sorry.

Now aside from the plethora of engineering reasons regarding the 'why' it might be better to just discuss general characteristics without getting into a pissing contest
Sorry again, but it is not a pissing contest. Some folks are stating proven facts, some folks are stating opinions based entirely on their preconceptions and ignoring facts. So it's hardly a contest.

But this part is entirely true:

I guess it's probably best to just go with what works for you without bitching too much about others 'different' decisions

I agree with that. But I want to know the real facts about the gear I'm using, and I don't want anyone to just tell me what I want to hear because it's what I always believed. The one thing I will never get over is how many people go out of their way to dispute proven facts when it comes to audio, and without so much as ever having read a single word about audio science, they're going to tell you that all these decades of research by people whose livelihoods depended on that knowledge is wrong. I was quite surprised to learn that a lot of preconceptions I had were wrong, but when I'd test them for myself, sure enough, I was wrong. Allowing yourself to be wrong is just fine. Not allowing yourself to be wrong just makes you less smart.

Let's get real here.
 
+1

And GRollins acts like I am all about 10's. Im not. I am supportive of driver size meaning little in reference to low end production.

There are reasons why larger drivers are used for sub woofers, but it isnt driver size inherently.

Yeah, I know - I own and like cabs that are loaded with 10s, others with 15s, and like quite a few cabs that are loaded with 12s - I'm hardly a proponent of just 10s, either...


- georgestrings
 
My Fact: My really old bass sounds fantastic through my realy old cabs w/ 15's & 18's.
My Fact: My really old bass sounds crappy through 10's.
My Fact: I get positive comments on my sound frequently.
My Fact: When I replaced my 15's recently, I measured my cabinet, and bought speakers designed for that size cabinet.
My Fact: It worked, and all without a computer program telling me it won't work.
My Fact: I don't transport my equipment in a civic.....I'm a bass player, I have big stuff.....buy equipment transportation accordingly.
My Fact: I'm not building cabinets, so I really don't care what science has to say about it. If I like what it sounds like....well thats what there will be.

Ending Fact: I used the word "Fact" more than JimmyM
 
My Fact: My really old bass sounds fantastic through my realy old cabs w/ 15's & 18's.
My Fact: My really old bass sounds crappy through 10's.
My Fact: I get positive comments on my sound frequently.
My Fact: When I replaced my 15's recently, I measured my cabinet, and bought speakers designed for that size cabinet.
My Fact: It worked, and all without a computer program telling me it won't work.
My Fact: I don't transport my equipment in a civic.....I'm a bass player, I have big stuff.....buy equipment transportation accordingly.
My Fact: I'm not building cabinets, so I really don't care what science has to say about it. If I like what it sounds like....well thats what there will be.

Ending Fact: I used the word "Fact" more than JimmyM

The speakers worked in your cabinet because the speakers were designed for a particular size cabinet, the same size as yours... designed, using science.
 
Okay, back...we'll see how far I can go in getting caught up.
georgestrings,
"...Low end monsters..." "...I regularly slam..." "...and believe me when I say..."
Wow! The clarity of your reasoning has shown me the error of my ways.
Not.
Uh, have you got any carefully reasoned thoughts to share with us? What you've said sounds pretty subjective/emotive/emotional so far.

CL400Peavey,
I haven't said anything about sensitivity. At least not yet. I'm not sure where you're going with this.
Your example using headphones doesn't hold water. Headphones are nearfield devices. If you don't think that matters, then...well...I suggest you try an experiment. Try holding the headphones away from your head. No bass, right? Just tinkly sounds. Track that experiment through to its conclusion.
Likewise, your argument regarding large drivers vs. smaller drivers being due to economy, while true at least some of the time, ignores the fact that larger drivers generally have lower Fs. Load up a cabinet simulation program and play with the Eminence BP 102 compared to the Eminence Omega Pro 18.
Several posters have tried to say that there's nothing about larger format drivers that inherently leads to lower response. Hmmm...I live in a different reality. In my universe, we have this property called "mass." Larger drivers have larger cones, which have more mass, which, all things being equal (spider, surround, etc.), lowers Fs. Lower Fs, being the resonant frequency of the driver itself, leads to lower response.
That said, if someone has access to an alternate universe where mass doesn't exist, I propose that we set up a tweeter import business, as hi-fi designers in my universe have been dying to get their hands on massless tweeters.
Hot damn, we're gonna be rich!
Note that I'm not against 10" drivers. I currently have the Eden cabinet (any takers?) and intend to replace it with more 10s. I just don't rely on them to produce anything below 50-60Hz. Particularly at volume.

In passing, I'd like to point out that not one person has addressed the Xmax problem I raised. Once you exceed Xmax, you lose your low frequencies. Xmax figures are generally metric and that throws a lot of people here in the US, but just for the heck of it, pretend that your driver has about 1/4" linear travel, then start playing and see how long it takes your driver to bounce farther than that. Multiply driver travel by the area of the cone(s) and you'll go a long way towards understanding why large drivers can do the things they can do, relative to smaller drivers, at higher volumes. Sure 10s can do a fair job of getting down to...60Hz, easy...50Hz, doable...40Hz...uh, 40Hz? Yeah, that's a toughie. And they can only do it at low volumes, because once doubling sets in, the effective lower limit for your cabinet rises because the frequencies you're putting in aren't being reproduces faithfully. If the tone you get satisfies you...great. I spent years trying to get my tone where I wanted it. If you're there, then don't change a thing. But don't try to tell us that you're getting a low B at 120dB out of 10s. It ain't happening.

chadds,
A Steinway, eh?
Is that what they mean when they talk about "piano bass?"
(Ahem...)

RS66LB,
Funny you should mention triamping. That's something I've been itching to try, but I haven't yet gathered the hardware I want for the experiment.

ejonn,
People tend to overlook the fact (there's that word again...) that all the "classic" tones came from cabinets (Marshall, Fender [jeez, a Twin is a nightmare, speaker cabinet-wise], old Ampegs...) that were pre Thiele-Small. And, no, it's not that people just "got used" to what they were hearing. Look at all the stuff that didn't make it. Why didn't it acquire "classic" status, too? People preferred certain sounds, but it didn't have a thing to do with perfectly designed cabinets.
I'm not suggesting that we go back to the old ways. I prefer to have more control over what's going to happen if I build a cabinet. But still, it's something to think about.

I was going to skip the rest of the banter, but decided at the last minute to throw this in:
JimmyM,
Yeah, I've learned along the way. Made mistakes. I bought the 371 because it had an 18" Cerwin Vega, so I figured that it must go low. Found out otherwise. The low frequency limit of a horn is governed by the size of the mouth of the horn. Period. A cabinet the size of a 301 (or the V4B, or an SVT 810--they're all about the same frontal area) cannot ever, ever, ever even approach the fundamental of a low E, much less a low B, and anything you do to try to force it to do so (like turning up the bass), only causes the cabinet to distort. Someone may like that tone, but it's not getting any deeper, just "growlier." For me, it was a wrong turn. The V4B, as long as I accepted the low end limitation, had this thick, creamy tone that I fell in love with, but it was a booger to move. Biggest cabinet I've ever owned, though not the heaviest. The SVT took that honor.

Grey