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Isolating problem speakers - Yorkville 8x8 ?
- Thread starter herman munster
- Start date
Wrong guy Will!
The OP has a space between the Herman and the Munster!
Heh...you may be right. Wondering if it isn't the same guy having problems logging on or registering with the extra key stroke.
I'll take the OP's place here. I saw the troubleshooting thread about isolating a bad speaker and was reading it in hopes of helping me do the same. Not sure exactly what happend but harmony seems to have been restored. Please point me in the right direction here so hopefully I won't have to spend a metric a$$ load of cash to get this repaired.
One, possibly two of my speakers in an 8x10 cab are crackling. Not always but at least half the time. It's not always the low frequencies that do it either. As someone had mentioned earlier, I believe it is the top left. (why that one BTW?). I don't think the speakers are blown because I tried pushing the speaker in with no grinding. I also did the 9v battery test. All speakers jump in the right direction. Is it loose connections? Bad wiring? Please help oh wise ones.
One, possibly two of my speakers in an 8x10 cab are crackling. Not always but at least half the time. It's not always the low frequencies that do it either. As someone had mentioned earlier, I believe it is the top left. (why that one BTW?). I don't think the speakers are blown because I tried pushing the speaker in with no grinding. I also did the 9v battery test. All speakers jump in the right direction. Is it loose connections? Bad wiring? Please help oh wise ones.
It seems that most cabinets today are wired using push on spade terminals. These can corrode over time and lose connectivity. They will need to be gently pulled off and reseated. If you are handy you could remove them and just solder to the terminals.
I re-soldered the terminal connectors already. Guess I should've mentioned that. Is it most likely a bad wire splice?
I will go through the entire cab and resplice all connectors with butt splices and solder then....stand by...
You have the last part right! As for the first part: OH BOY do you ever have a surprise coming!!
Well, I mean it doesn't seem hostile or "divided" the way many forums are... Perhaps I'm mistaken, either way I dig it here.
Approx. 70km to your south.
These are much appreciated, as well as other ideas throughout the thread. Thank you, I will start here. I won't be at my jam space for a couple of nights, so I'll update thread with findings.
Whoops! Sorry, Mr. Munster, it was just the first thing that popped into my head, I can look into getting a new name if you/others would like, to avoid confusion?
Nah, totally different person.
Update...removed all the wire nuts inside my 8x10. I re-soldered all connections including all the sleeve/tab connections on the speakers themselves so I know all the connections are good. I still have some crackling in the top two speakers. The only thing I couldn't replace off hand was the electronics attached to the speaker jack plate with the horn attenuator knob. Now what?
Attachments
If I were testing this...I'd use my signal generator and input a signal into each speaker seperately, sweeping all the way through the audio spectrum. (Of course, it helps that I have signal generators and have done this before.)
Without a signal generator of some sort, Plan B would be to use tones downloaded on the computer, or a keyboard,or even the bass would be the last resort. But the main thing is that each driver (speaker) must be disconnected and tested separately. It doesn't take much power to test them.
Parts Express used to sell an oscillator expressly for this type of speaker testing [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] But alas it has been discontinued.
Without a signal generator of some sort, Plan B would be to use tones downloaded on the computer, or a keyboard,or even the bass would be the last resort. But the main thing is that each driver (speaker) must be disconnected and tested separately. It doesn't take much power to test them.
Parts Express used to sell an oscillator expressly for this type of speaker testing [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] But alas it has been discontinued.
Chances are good those top two are damaged then. Have you checked the mounting to make sure they are evenly tight?
I have. Everything's tight but not over tight. I wish I had a spectrum thingy to test each speaker.
Those seemed fine too. I'm fairly certain the wiring from the jack to each individual speaker is good. I think I may just have to drag it in for repairs unless something jumps out at me. Anyone know a good place to go in the Sacramento area for cab repair?
Can check this, otherwise if that doesn't pan out, it's possible you have a littke bit of coil rub or intermittent short that doesn't present itself all the time. Checking DCR of each driver independently MIGHT show you something, might not. A cheap little meter can do that, they're good to have around anyway. Bottom line, there's still a problem in there that the simple ways aren't finding, likely end up needing reconing.
