Hmmm...I can relocate the two offending speakers with two operational speakers. If the problem moves with the speakers, I know what I'm up against.
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Isolating problem speakers - Yorkville 8x8 ?
- Thread starter herman munster
- Start date
This seems like the next obvious move. If the problem moves with the speakers, it's of to have them reconed. Either that or replace them. If you've gotten this far, you can replace them yourself. Good luck.
Believe it or not I'm an electrician during the day until this music thing starts paying off. Only been 27 years of playing music. Unfortunately, if the voltage is under 120VAC I'm lost.
A little more complete answer is Direct Current Resistance is all you can measure with a hand held meter. If is different from speaker impedance which is an AC measurement that varies with the frequency of Alternating Current applied to the speaker. DCR is usually lower in number than the rated impedance.
Go and throw it in a lake ... if it floats , it must be a witch therefore you should burn it. If it sinks it's OK, but you'll need to buy a new cab.
+1
That would be a good verification move, good thinkong OP.
And sorry, the DCR thing is internet lingo to save typing. If somebody says use your DMM, that's a Digital MultiMeter.
You're checking resistance from the speaker terminals, through the leads going through the come to the voice coil. Speakers always read a bit less than their nominal impedance, for example, an 8 ohm speaker should read something between 5 and 7. 4 ohm speaker 3.something.
In this case, you'll get continuity because the do work at least sometimes, but a reading extaordinarily high or low would indicate a problem. Swapping speakers and listening if the problem follows it might be just as easy, and more conclusive.
Mousekillaz said:
I think I'll follow this advice. An 8x10 cab is to flippin much to drag around anyway.
Approx. 70km to your south.
Doesn't that put you in lake Ontario??
If you fancy the ride up to Scarborough with your cabinet I'll take a look at it with you.
I managed to find a couple replacement 8s from Yorkville (because I was assuming it was 1 or maybe 2 that were giving the rattling), so I went down to the jamspace and took the grill off the cab.
By gently and evenly pushing on the cones, I found 2 voice coils scraping. Perfect, I thought. Replaced those 2, turned it all back on and tried again... Well it sounded marginally better but still rattling and sputtering all over the place. Brought the light down super close to the cab and sarted looking carefully, and poking very gently, lo and behold 5 of the remaining 6 speakers had visible tears all around the outer edges of the cones, some as much as halfway around the outer circumference.
Well that solves that, replace 7 speakers (at which point I might as well do all 8) or look for a new cab. I'm assuming these speakers aren't worth getting re-coned?
By gently and evenly pushing on the cones, I found 2 voice coils scraping. Perfect, I thought. Replaced those 2, turned it all back on and tried again... Well it sounded marginally better but still rattling and sputtering all over the place. Brought the light down super close to the cab and sarted looking carefully, and poking very gently, lo and behold 5 of the remaining 6 speakers had visible tears all around the outer edges of the cones, some as much as halfway around the outer circumference.
Well that solves that, replace 7 speakers (at which point I might as well do all 8) or look for a new cab. I'm assuming these speakers aren't worth getting re-coned?
It's a lot of patchwork, but you can fix the tears yourself with rubber cement and something like a rolling paper/tissue paper on the back of the cone. Stick the paper to the back, fill the tears/seams with rubber cement...or superglue if it's a part that doesn't have to flex.
I have some old speakers I've patched up that way several years ago that are still in regular use.
I have some old speakers I've patched up that way several years ago that are still in regular use.
If cone kits are available it is usually about 60% the cost of a new speaker. It will be like a new speaker when done (only the basket gets reused).
Hmm... It seems like it would be tricky to patch these up as the tears are in the section of "springy" material in the outermost edge. Is that area still repairable? It doesn't seem like it would bond very well as it's ripped right at the end of the material where it attaches to the metal.
I'll take some pictures and post them up here next time I go down.
I'll take some pictures and post them up here next time I go down.
From that description, don't bother trying. Have them repaired with new cones or replace.
Yeah, that spot it probably wouldn't work so well. OP, search speaker repair guys local to you and/or check with Traynor for available recone kits. Cheaper than new drivers.
Try layering at angles tracing paper sheets soaked in glue. I would use black and keep adding until its firm? Try small strips so the speaker can flex.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Nice idea but this will change the speaker's response and critical parameters greatly (most likely the speakers will no longer work properly in the cab designed for the un-modded speakers). YMMV
