The top for my custom hula bass, based on the kala u-bass
5 strings and fretts.
Which kind of wood? Very picturesque!
How wide the neck/fretboard?
Klaus
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Kala UBass Megathread, Part 4
- Thread starter smperry
- Start date
- Status
Which kind of wood? Very picturesque!
How wide the neck/fretboard?
Klaus
This above beauty with its cut-off plus my own work with scales and transcriptions using the full range of the acoustic UBass make me ask:
How much does this moderate type of cut-off influence the sound (depth, volume)?
How much is the access to upper frets improved?
As long as my plugging is for free stuff from my Yahoo-based project, I hope it is not considered too offensive:
One main lesson of my taking a bass course some 30 years ago is about being able to play all major scales staying within just one position for each scale. I have made scale methods for other instruments, so I have tried to combine the 1 position per mode/key approach to various scale types. So far I have made all the modal scales plus the synthetic Lydian Dominant fit with my approach (inspired by jazz musicians) of scales and arpeggios to the ninth. Standard notation & tablature:
Link Removed
I am working on a transcription of Bachs Cello Suite in G Major. If transposed to B Major, it fits the range of the acoustic UBass exactly using as well the low E as the 16th fret B natural. The standard notation is not too kind on the eyes with double sharps and all, but then tablature is not affected by any cluttered key signatures.
The edition of the C Minor Cello suite has been transposed to E minor, and it doesnt include the prelude, only the 5 baroque dance types:
Link Removed
Klaus
How much does this moderate type of cut-off influence the sound (depth, volume)?
How much is the access to upper frets improved?
As long as my plugging is for free stuff from my Yahoo-based project, I hope it is not considered too offensive:
One main lesson of my taking a bass course some 30 years ago is about being able to play all major scales staying within just one position for each scale. I have made scale methods for other instruments, so I have tried to combine the 1 position per mode/key approach to various scale types. So far I have made all the modal scales plus the synthetic Lydian Dominant fit with my approach (inspired by jazz musicians) of scales and arpeggios to the ninth. Standard notation & tablature:
Link Removed
I am working on a transcription of Bachs Cello Suite in G Major. If transposed to B Major, it fits the range of the acoustic UBass exactly using as well the low E as the 16th fret B natural. The standard notation is not too kind on the eyes with double sharps and all, but then tablature is not affected by any cluttered key signatures.
The edition of the C Minor Cello suite has been transposed to E minor, and it doesnt include the prelude, only the 5 baroque dance types:
Link Removed
Klaus
The body wood was purchased off e-bay and described as Buckeye burl. Cost me more than I wanted to pay but 20 years from now, when I hope to be still playing it, I figure I wont remember the cost.
It'll be a hollowbody (semi-hollowbody) design with all other woods being mahogany - no sound hole, I forget about the fretboard - its the dark (almost black) wood (ebony?). All other design is based on the 5 string kala u-bass. So 22.5 scale and same string spacing - as far as I'm aware. Tim may have other details. Not sure about the electronics if I get the mi-si or whatever it is that Scott and Tim have cooked up which I totally don't understand.
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f57/new-unique-custom-build-u-bass-901108/
Scott at Grove Guitars has been excellent to deal with, even with the late change to the Buckeye Burl.
As far as Nigel's bass, I have been working with Scott. The specs as far as scale, radius, etc, will be the same as the 5-string Cali solids. The fingerboard will be ebony. Nigel's bass will have the mi-Si as far as I know. We are using the same hardware as Kala's Calis too. But that is where it ends. All woods, body shape, etc. is custom. The top on mine is a highly figured black walnut I believe. The only thing we limited ourselves too was that it will fit in the U-Bass gig bag. Mine will have custom electronics on board. Kind of an experiment in progress. I have started a thread on my build to not have too much conflict of interests here. Though, I must say we (Or rather Scott and Grove guitars) are certainly no threat to Kala or their business, and Mark at Kala has been very wonderful to us and has pulled a lot of strings to supply us parts.
We have been asked by a multitude of folks about a soundhole suppression solution for the Acoustic UBasses with 3" soundholes.
We are producing a simple soundhole plug that we call the FEEDBACK FREEZER, and it will be availble in a few weeks for $9.99.
More info here:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=330908613672052&set=a.294932863936294.63400.293818370714410&type=1&theater
You are now welcome to turn it up to 11
We are producing a simple soundhole plug that we call the FEEDBACK FREEZER, and it will be availble in a few weeks for $9.99.
More info here:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=330908613672052&set=a.294932863936294.63400.293818370714410&type=1&theater
You are now welcome to turn it up to 11
scotch
It's not rocket science!
- Nov 12, 2006
- 6,944
- 2,081
- 51
- Disclosures
- Please see Profile for Endorsement disclosures
We have been asked by a multitude of folks about a soundhole suppression solution for the Acoustic UBasses with 3" soundholes.
We are producing a simple soundhole plug that we call the FEEDBACK FREEZER, and it will be availble in a few weeks for $9.99.
More info here:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=330908613672052&set=a.294932863936294.63400.293818370714410&type=1&theater
You are now welcome to turn it up to 11
Nice! I can retire my coffee-lid now!
Does the Feedback Freezer have enough lip on the top edge to double as a thumb rest?
For $10, I think I'll be getting one for when the band wants to crank it.
For $10, I think I'll be getting one for when the band wants to crank it.
We have been asked by a multitude of folks about a soundhole suppression solution for the Acoustic UBasses with 3" soundholes.
We are producing a simple soundhole plug that we call the FEEDBACK FREEZER, and it will be availble in a few weeks for $9.99.
More info here:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=330908613672052&set=a.294932863936294.63400.293818370714410&type=1&theater
You are now welcome to turn it up to 11
Excellent. Plan on selling lots of them.
Nice! I can retire my coffee-lid now!
Justin,
The coffee lid photo made my day! When I suggested that we come up with a solution for this the guys asked, "what are people currently using?"
Boy do I wish I had this photo back then.
Mark
Pringles lids are all well and good, but for me the big news is the Silver Rumblers are now orderable. 
Well, I just got my lefty and...busted tuner. It's my D, and interestingly enough two other righties I played in stores had an A tuner that was too stiff to turn, and I didn't for fear it would break. So when mine arrived I figured, well, this D is way stiff but it's gotta get turned up a few steps to pitch so, here goes...so I verrrrry, verrrrrry carefully and slowly and delicately turned it for a bit and then it just went loose in the shaft, and now the post doesn't turn. Crappers. Won't be gigging with it soon.
Will make the calls to remedy it in the AM, but meanwhile it's a bit of a bummer. It's notable that so many of the stiff tuners that have broken are in the exact same location, like a bad box of them all went into righty A's and lefty D's.
Will make the calls to remedy it in the AM, but meanwhile it's a bit of a bummer. It's notable that so many of the stiff tuners that have broken are in the exact same location, like a bad box of them all went into righty A's and lefty D's.
That's a damn shame on a new bass, no doubt Ryan @ Kala will fix you right up.
It's not unusual for my tuners to get stiff, when they do I back out the phillips screw to adjust the tension.
I have occasional flare ups of having to experiment with Stuff.
Usually these experiments ends up in - failure, and, loss of money.
Anyway, since I need to replace the strings on my new SUB, I'm having thoughts of trying - Tapewounds.
Anyone want to offer up any opinions?
Yes, the length won't be correct. I have experimented in the past with using strings on short basses, without having the correct length strings. I have found that flats are so stiff that they will crack when you try to wind them on the post. On the other hand, I have found regular strings to work - if you just go slow and easy.
Are tapes less stiff than flats?
The thought would be to try a 5 string set, using the thicker strings.
Crazy? Definitely would be an expensive experiment.
Usually these experiments ends up in - failure, and, loss of money.
Anyway, since I need to replace the strings on my new SUB, I'm having thoughts of trying - Tapewounds.
Anyone want to offer up any opinions?
Yes, the length won't be correct. I have experimented in the past with using strings on short basses, without having the correct length strings. I have found that flats are so stiff that they will crack when you try to wind them on the post. On the other hand, I have found regular strings to work - if you just go slow and easy.
Are tapes less stiff than flats?
The thought would be to try a 5 string set, using the thicker strings.
Crazy? Definitely would be an expensive experiment.
Rotosound 88's are stiff - and will crack when wound at the post. But they won't come apart. They last FOREVER, and will not need much turning thereafter...
I have made short basses with BEAD strings before. .127" for the E!
How'd I calculate? Simple. The 5th fret of the low-B is at 25.5" on a standard bass. That's a good length for the nut-end of the same string, used for E.
You could probably go down to 23-21" like this - but the floppy, sloppy strings will be something to require higher action.
Mine were built "string-through", and I wrapped the excess inches up the back of the instrument for slack. That let me wind on the silks!
But I did this "string-through"
- Status
