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Kringle77 sealed 2x12 video

#24
I used 3/4" birch from a local hardware store. Lots of ply's, can remember how many. It takes about half a sheet. rough list of dimensions would be (2) 15x25, 2(13.5x25), 2(15x15), (1)13.5x12.5 So, around half a 4x8 sheet.
 
#27
Dude that does sound great! A bit of growl, nice balance and a just the right amount of low end push/punch. I see what you said about the brightness.

Maybe of all the recordings you've done, this one sounds the most like it's been engineered to fit in the mix. I love that.

Great eye on finding the Betas.

I like the Fanes, I like the Fanes... ;)
 
#28
The fanes are great and real power houses. I had the two betas in my hurtful cab with the ports plugged which added an extra cubic foot. Hadmaybe just alittle more low end, alittle less punch. Still awsome and not a huge difference. I'd rather have a smaller cab. Yeah, this one is the winner for me.
 
#30
svtb15 said:
So adding the plugs Adds cu-in? I didnt know that..
The Hurtful sounds great too...

Are you using the Eminence Beta 12a in both cabs? They seem to go up hi enough for my taste.. Which is what i do.. mmmmm
Click to expand...

Nope, the Hurtful cab is larger and uses 3012HO's. Chris tried the Betas in that cab with the ports plugs before he had the sealed cab built. Also when open, the ports do not count towards Vb, but when closed they do. So they were tested at a larger box volume in the Hurtful cab.

I'd agree about the size trade off. Smaller is better, IMO.

I've only recently really realized it, but some people talk about tuning ported cabs low to simulate sealed cabs. That is only true of huge sealed cabs with "ideal" / flat alignments. That's not what sounds best to my ears, though. A small ported box tuned a touch high tends to give similar punch to a small sealed cab. Too much that way can lead to boom, so it's a fine line. Chris nailed it, though, with the Hurtful cab and the 3015 LDS cab it sounds like.
 
#32
kringle77 said:
The fanes are great and real power houses. I had the two betas in my hurtful cab with the ports plugged which added an extra cubic foot. Hadmaybe just alittle more low end, alittle less punch. Still awsome and not a huge difference. I'd rather have a smaller cab. Yeah, this one is the winner for me.
Click to expand...

Yeah, just a little different flavor. I think they also do the "pre-engineered" tone thing really well. (Not unlike JGR's new Box-O-Tone.) The goal for me has been build a cab you can just stick a good mic on be done with it. These should make great studio cabs, too, for that reason.
 
#34
Here is all the specs for those who want to build one cab. Double materials for two.

Tools and materials:
-Jasper router circle jig. ( totally essential for me)
-router
-drill with 1/8" bit
- air brad nailer with 1 3/8" brads
-table saw for cutting long pieces of plywood
- Locktight pl premium plus glue
-1 pint of duratex with roller
-sandpaper
-wood puddy
* all the work can be done with a circular saw, jig saw, clamps and drill but, the circle jig and brad nailer make the job so much quicker and easier. Just buy the damn jasper jig already. Just get it over with!

-2 beta 12a woofers
-1 round top handle - Dayton Audio PH113 Round Plastic Handle Part Number: 262-823
- plastic corners- Dayton Audio PC123-16 Plastic Stacking Corner 16 Pcs. Part Number: 262-834
-1 Jack plate - Penn-Elcom M1503 ABS Dish One 1/4" + One Neutrik D/NL4MP Part Number: 262-346
-1 jack- Amphenol SP-2-MD Speaker Connector 2 Pole "D" Flange Panel M Part Number: 092-0160
-7 rubber feet for the grill - Penn-Elcom F1690 Rubber Cabinet Foot 1" Dia. x 1" H Part Number: 260-7714
-speaker wire
- 1 sheet of 3/4" birch plwood, many plys, not 3 or 4.
-I ordered my grills on-line
 
#35
The cut list for plywood (keep in mind that you may have to cut some pieces to fit due to wood lost from cutting, for making less than perfect cuts, etc. These are only close measurements)for one cab would be:

Front baffle/ back
(2) 13.5" wide, 25" tall

Sides
(2) 15" wide, 25" tall

top/bottom
(2) 15" wide, 15"wide

Internal brace/seperator
(1) 13.5" wide, 12.5" deep
 
#36
TIPS:
1- Cut the top/bottom pieces last so that you can measure exactly what dimensions they will need to be.
2- circles for the woofers are 11"
3- circles for the jackplate is 3"(very tight, may need to file just alittle to make it fit but, tighter is better when it comes to sealed cabs. (I chose this jack because it mounts into a circular hole)
4- circle for handle is 5 7/8"
5- draw lines on the boards ahead of time where the brace will be, where the baffle should be and where nail lines are.
6- attack brace to front baffle (do it on a flat table so that everything is square)
7- attach back to baffle ( use one of the side pieces to get everthing really squared up before nailing)
8- attach one side, then the other making sure that all the lines on the front baffle are square. You'll any slop on the back of the cab instead of the front.
9- nail top and bottom on
10- route handle circle 5 7/8"
 
#37
1) Solder wires to speakon jack, put silicone around it to stop air leaks, silicon up other 1/4" hole (it can be opened up later to be used for a secret switch, etc.)

2) Cut piece of insulation long enough to cover 1 side, the back and then the other side of each chamber. Cut two more small pieces for the top and bottom of the chamber.

TIP: cut up squares of cotton from and old T-shirt. Staple throught the cotton on top of the insulation so that the staple won't pull through.

..............oh yeah, I duratexed both cabs before the stuffing and electronic went in, of course.

Put in electronics, corners, handle, speakers and grill.

100) Pretend you are Nikki Sixx and shout at the devil!
 

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