• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Lakland 01 Club

Status
Not open for further replies.
#441
Supertanker;
I think I read the following trick in the Reverend mega-thread.

At any rate, there as a guy who was having problems with a noisy Rev.
Painted the cavities, taped the p/g, in general did everything that should have added up to a good job.

What fix it in the end was a lil old "L" shaped piece of tape, with one foot sitting in the control cavity touching the paint, and the other sitting on the top touching the p/g.

This provided conductivity from the cavity to the p/g, and solved all his problems.
Neato huh? I would chased that for a decade...

Fourstringbliss: using copper foil for that entire job would not have dodged that final problem. If you feel better using it, go ahead. It takes about 1000% more time to trim all that to fit really fit nicely, lay it in there, and then solder all the pieces together to make sure it really is conductive throughout...

Skip that last step, and you might as well skip the whole job.
I've seen way too many horrid, non-conductive copper jobs.
Not saying it can't be done, or you shouldn't, or it doesn't work.
Just that for *my time* and with my experience with both, I know which is the better answer for me.
 
#442
Chef said:
Supertanker;
I think I read the following trick in the Reverend mega-thread.

At any rate, there as a guy who was having problems with a noisy Rev.
Painted the cavities, taped the p/g, in general did everything that should have added up to a good job.

What fix it in the end was a lil old "L" shaped piece of tape, with one foot sitting in the control cavity touching the paint, and the other sitting on the top touching the p/g.

This provided conductivity from the cavity to the p/g, and solved all his problems.
Neato huh? I would chased that for a decade...

Fourstringbliss: using copper foil for that entire job would not have dodged that final problem. If you feel better using it, go ahead. It takes about 1000% more time to trim all that to fit really fit nicely, lay it in there, and then solder all the pieces together to make sure it really is conductive throughout...

Skip that last step, and you might as well skip the whole job.
I've seen way too many horrid, non-conductive copper jobs.
Not saying it can't be done, or you shouldn't, or it doesn't work.
Just that for *my time* and with my experience with both, I know which is the better answer for me.
Click to expand...

I'm totally with you! Whenever I use this copper foil tape to shield a bass I'm constantly using my multimeter to check connectivity.
 
#443
I now remember why I went with the copper foil.

One 1/2 pint can of the shielding paint - $32 plus shipping

One roll of 2" conductive copper foil tape - $11 plus shipping

Both will shield two or more basses.

I'm just cheap! :D

(Plus, spray tack and heavy duty aluminum foil work wonders for pickguards and control cavity plates!)
 
#446
Invalid Link Removed

Hey all, I've recently put an Audere Classic 4-band into this bass. It has the stock pups. I went with the 4-band because I wanted to keep the controls simple, I don't like to tweak too much. It made a noticable improvement in the tone. The Audere EQ frequencies are much more usable and pleasing to the ear than the stock pre. The low-mid control in particular is very useful as it has a wide band and adds a lot of volume. The treble adds clarity without the over-the-top finger noise and fretboard clanks. The bass adds thump without mud. Used it at rehearsal tonight and I'm very pleased with it. The mids really cut through and sound like a bass should.

All that said, I'm using the soloed bridge pickup almost exclusively, with occaisional neck blend if I want a more mellow sound. The bridge pickup sounds great but the neck pickup lacks clarity and punch. I noticed this with the stock preamp as well but the Audere seems to bring it out more. This is the opposite of my other basses which makes me think the pickups have a naturally dark tone that just doesn't suit them to the neck position. So a pickup upgrade is in the future, but I'm happy with it for now.

By the way the shielding job on my bass is very good, with copper foil and (brass?) grounding plates in the pickup cavities and shielding paint in the control cavity. Everything is grounded to the bridge. No problems with noise although she gives nasty feedback if I get too close to the amp! :bassist:
 
#447
PluckyThump said:
Invalid Link Removed

All that said, I'm using the soloed bridge pickup almost exclusively, with occaisional neck blend if I want a more mellow sound. The bridge pickup sounds great but the neck pickup lacks clarity and punch. I noticed this with the stock preamp as well but the Audere seems to bring it out more. This is the opposite of my other basses which makes me think the pickups have a naturally dark tone...
Click to expand...

That is correct.

The pickups do have a very dark tone.

Not a bad thing, just depends on what you like...
 
#450
Chef said:
Huh..."note to self, buy some short xlr's to play with."

Followup q: was that hum present at all times, or just with that particular bass?
Click to expand...

Just that bass.

The other seven are quiet.

And only if you turned it a certain direction or walked around it would get better or worse depending.

I'm sure a good shielding job would have accomplished the same thing...
 
#453
Guys,

sorry for the delay. I contacted the guy who'd done the chip swap for my Bartolini Mk-1 preamp. Of course he didn't remember exactly since it had been in late 2005, but he told me that

OPA 2604
OPA 2132
OPA 2134

will do it right.
Of them the 2132 is the most expensive one and the rest are cheaper.

Take care,
Denis
 
#454
denchiq said:
Guys,

sorry for the delay. I contacted the guy who'd done the chip swap for my Bartolini Mk-1 preamp. Of course he didn't remember exactly since it had been in late 2005, but he told me that

OPA 2604
OPA 2132
OPA 2134

will do it right.
Of them the 2132 is the most expensive one and the rest are cheaper.

Take care,
Denis
Click to expand...

That's good information.

These are less than five dollars each.

Super cheap swap if you're able to replace the chips or have someone do it for you...
 
#455
Supertanker said:
Super cheap swap if you're able to replace the chips or have someone do it for you...
Click to expand...

It would be a super easy swap if they were like these chips:

800px-Op-amps.gif


Which have pins that drop into slots to connect them.

The chips on the stock Bartolini MK-1 preamp are flush mounted and soldered to the circuit board. You'd have to know how to do that kind of soldering or have someone else do it - it'd probably be easier, sound better, and cost about the same to just put a Bartolini NTMB in there.
 
#456
Guys, i want some opinions on this idea ive just had.
Ive bene playing my DuckDunn for the past few months and love everything about it.
But this week ive been forced to dust off my 55-01 to practice with at home and i was surprised at how easy it was getting back in to tplaying 5 strings. Even the different neck sizes arent a problem (i still cant get to grips with a P neck though, hence the DD).
I was thinking. The reason i got a DD was because i really wanted a P tone. And i really love the fralin in mine. But, i could do with the extra string.

Would it be feasible and practical to get the neck pup taken out and have a P bass pup put in? Im guessing if i have a pick guard over the hole it wont look too bad.
I dont really want to have a pup in that isnt the real deal, i love the way the whole P bass sounds. I realise it wont be exact but it would be close. I know you can get close to it already with the Barts but its not really the same. I would also have the NTMB taken out, dont want an active P.
I would take to to a workshop, not do it myself. I realise this wont be too cheap but its cheaper than getting a 5 string P and i really like the neck and string spacing on my 55-01 so would prefer to keep this.

Like i say, its just an idea. Thoughts?
 
#457
Did you know that most soap bar pickups are actually reverse P pickups under the cover?

One thing you can try quite easily is to solo the neck pickup and run it passive.

See how you like that sound and it won't cost you anything.

Lakland is also coming out with a 5 string P (that's what I'm waiting for). It should be out in few months.

Other than that I think it would be fairly inexpensive to throw a P pickup in your 5501 and make it passive...
 
#458
Supertanker said:
Did you know that most soap bar pickups are actually reverse P pickups under the cover?

One thing you can try quite easily is to solo the neck pickup and run it passive.

See how you like that sound and it won't cost you anything.

Lakland is also coming out with a 5 string P (that's what I'm waiting for). It should be out in few months.

Other than that I think it would be fairly inexpensive to throw a P pickup in your 5501 and make it passive...
Click to expand...

Thanks, ive heard about the BG 5 string but i cant really justify getting another bass. Nor can i afford it.
Any idea what the neck dimensions would be? If it was the same as the 55-01 then maybe i could sell the Duck Dunn and 55-01 but thats not very likely just yet.
Ive tried various settings on my 55-01, even the one Brian (or Dan) suggested to get close to a P but none of them really have that P personality. As i really like the fralin P i would get one of those.
My question really is how practical it would be to modify the body to take the fralin. Im not sure if i would like a pick guard on it but thats preferable to seeing big holes i guess.
 
#459
dave_bass5 said:
Thanks, ive heard about the BG 5 string but i cant really justify getting another bass. Nor can i afford it.
Any idea what the neck dimensions would be? If it was the same as the 55-01 then maybe i could sell the Duck Dunn and 55-01 but thats not very likely just yet.
Ive tried various settings on my 55-01, even the one Brian (or Dan) suggested to get close to a P but none of them really have that P personality. As i really like the fralin P i would get one of those.
My question really is how practical it would be to modify the body to take the fralin. Im not sure if i would like a pick guard on it but thats preferable to seeing big holes i guess.
Click to expand...

You might just try a Bartolini USA split coil pickup in their P2 shape. It would just be 2 mm narrower than the MK-1 pickup you've got in there now.
 
#460
fourstringbliss said:
You might just try a Bartolini USA split coil pickup in their P2 shape. It would just be 2 mm narrower than the MK-1 pickup you've got in there now.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the suggestion.
Can you post a link to this as im not sure i can find the right one.

One thing i had forgotten about was that i do indeed need a 5 string pup so not sure the Fralin idea will work now so im open to other suggestions.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back