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Lakland Owners Group #65

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Take 2, using a real camera with natural lighting

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Keep me appraised...I didn't get to do mine due to pickguard install and oogling

I did the treatment on my Skyline 44-60 which has the bound and blocked Rosewood fretboard. I have to say that the FB looks much healthier than if just using lemon or orange oil. The wax and feed did a great job of making the grain in the wood pop.

As far as the back of the neck, its not bad, but I like a silky smooth unfinished feel. Its not tacky at all and is very smooth, just not to my standard of smooth.

I did my 55-01 and 55-02 which are maple FB's with the orange oil only and it did a nice job cleaning and highlighting the figuring.

I recommend the treatment for skylines.
 
I did the treatment on my Skyline 44-60 which has the bound and blocked Rosewood fretboard. I have to say that the FB looks much healthier than if just using lemon or orange oil. The wax and feed did a great job of making the grain in the wood pop.

As far as the back of the neck, its not bad, but I like a silky smooth unfinished feel. Its not tacky at all and is very smooth, just not to my standard of smooth.

I did my 55-01 and 55-02 which are maple FB's with the orange oil only and it did a nice job cleaning and highlighting the figuring.

I recommend the treatment for skylines.

Did you sand the back of the neck, or just use steel wool? Did you also use steel wool to take off some of the wax coating?

I've used feed and wax on my fretboard before and it's fantastic
 
Did you sand the back of the neck, or just use steel wool? Did you also use steel wool to take off some of the wax coating?

I've used feed and wax on my fretboard before and it's fantastic

I always use a 1200 grit sandpaper on the backs of my necks to lightly smooth them out. I never scuff deeply just enough to make silky smooth. After that it's always 0000 steel wool before and after I play.
 
I always use a 1200 grit sandpaper on the backs of my necks to lightly smooth them out. I never scuff deeply just enough to make silky smooth. After that it's always 0000 steel wool before and after I play.

I don't know why, but the thought of using steel wool that much makes me cringe. Just thinking about all the steel particles migrating through the air to find a home under my pickups - shudder.
 
I didn't think to mention - I'd not use steel wool.. I would use a Scotch Brite pad of comparable strength. Steel wool can leave little shards and splinters of metal that will show up on your pickups, scratch up your finish, etc. With care, you might be able to avoid it but I'd rather just preempt the possibility!

That's strange, because I watched a luthier at Lakland use steel wool on a US neck, though it was separated from the body, which is what I plan to do.
 
I didn't think to mention - I'd not use steel wool.. I would use a Scotch Brite pad of comparable strength. Steel wool can leave little shards and splinters of metal that will show up on your pickups, scratch up your finish, etc. With care, you might be able to avoid it but I'd rather just preempt the possibility!

Steel wool ONLY on the back of the neck. Never on the fretboard.

I've never had issues with fines on the pickups. If you are worried about it, a little masking tape can help.

I've tried Scotch bright pads in the past and was not really happy. Steel wool works best for me. YMMV.
 
That's strange, because I watched a luthier at Lakland use steel wool on a US neck, though it was separated from the body, which is what I plan to do.

Well see, that's a whole different ball game. You can take the neck out to the garage and have your way with it, then wipe it down with a tack cloth, etc. making sure not to leave any steel wool fibers behind that could and will migrate to live under your pickups.
 
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