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Dunlop Super Bright nickel are my faves, but I always string through the bridge so no comment on through body with these. I think a lot od DR will do through body. Sunbeams are always nice but any DR nickel string will likely not disappoint.
I’ve got dunlops on my 5594 at the moment and enjoy them. Top loaded as the B string is too short for thru body. Mine are 125 gauge and the B string is a tad light . You might try a 130
Very nice. One thing to watch for. If you do to the 40-120 Super Brights, as you may already know, you'll likely need a truss rod adjustment as they're probably a lighter overall tension. Pre 2015ish per Lakland "the Skylines used to be single action, but for the last 7 or 8 years, they're all been dual.". It's an important thing to note necause teh lighter gauge may not pull the neck into enough relief and a single action rod won't help. I have had some that were hard to get to cooperate. If you have a dual action you are all set and can force the required relief. Just a thought.
Got it. Mine is a 2022. Which size hex keys do I need for the truss and saddles? I didn’t get any tools with the bass but have metric and imperial sets at home.
That info came directly from Brian at Lakland in November 2023.
Nice score, congrats! I almost pulled the trigger on it, but I already have a DJ5.
I don’t think they advertise that anywhere on their site. That’s something that they should probably have listed there. I personally prefer single action. You don’t have a dead spot in the adjustment range, you can remove the nut if needed to add a washer for additional adjustment. And if the nut were to ever strip, you can remove it and change it. It’s highly unlikely you’d need to add additional forward bow. I guess super light strings could require it but most sets would have enough tension. Maybe it’s just me and my experience with them, but I’ve had dual action truss rod basses (some pretty expensive ones) that didn’t seem to have enough range and couldn’t get straight enough with standard .045-.105 or .45-.100s, or where the optimal spot for relief was in that dead area with no tension on the rod and you could hear it rattle in the neck. I’m not saying I’m 100% opposed to one, I’d just like to adjust it myself before buying it to get a feel for its range and how it sets up.
I wonder if Hipshot would sell just the tuning keys and not the whole tuner. I’ve thought about doing that on my JO4, but I don’t want to drop the money on 3 HB1s and 1 BT1… changing the keys out is pretty easy as the tuners are reversible for LH or RH use.Just replaced the original clover tuners on my JO5 with lollipops. They're so pretty
I don't think so. Hipshot's customer service is great but they probably won't sell you separate keys. Oh by the way: it depends on the tuners if they're reversible. I asked Hipshot about the BT1s on my JO4 and they're an older generation, so not reversible or exchangable with lollipop keys.
Yeah, I’ve reached out to them for other stuff in the past. They have pretty good customer service. I’m pretty sure I’ve dealt with Oscar there. My HB1s are the current ones they make that came on my bass. I know I could take mine apart. I actually like the older ones more from an athletic standpoint with the longer keys. Are yours also reverse gears?
Lakland got back to me. They say the bridge pickup is probably bad. I confirmed it's a phase issue by reversing the wiring which made the issue move to the B, E, and A strings. I ordered a new bridge pickup.
