welcome back!!!
email [email protected]
with the serial number....he should be able to verify all but the pre-amp...Nitro seems odd....
we need pics!!!
please??
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welcome back!!!
email [email protected]
with the serial number....he should be able to verify all but the pre-amp...Nitro seems odd....
we need pics!!!
please??
Has anyone replaced the neck bolt ferrules on their lakland?
I was wondering if the procedure of replacing them is simple.
Also does anyone have recommendations for where to get good replacements?
This is in order to black out the hardware. Thanks!
I was wondering if the procedure of replacing them is simple.
Also does anyone have recommendations for where to get good replacements?
This is in order to black out the hardware. Thanks!
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It should be pretty simple to remove the ferrulesfrom the back of the body, you might be able to do it with the tip of the neck bolt itself or gently with a thin flat head screwdriver. Whatever you do, just be careful not to damage the paint. If you're sending the body offer refinish, it's not such a problem. I ordered a set of blacked out ferrules from Amazon but they ended up being 0.060" toolarge in diameter. I would recommend contacting Lakland or hipshot directly and see what they recommend.
Yes, I've removed them on a couple guitars. IIRC, I think they're either pressed and/or glued in. I used an 8" thin tapered punch and knocked them out from the back side. A long thin tapered punch allowed me to catch the back edge while slowly tapping them out. Be careful though, chipping of the finish could occur. If you have a steady and a sharp exacto knife, you might want to consider scoring the circumference of the ferrule to help prevent finish chipping.
One, black hardware good choice
I've done this a number of times and each time has been a different challenge. Depending on the year made, US vs Skyline, etc. there are differences in the size of the ferrules and the inner diameter especially.
If the inner diameter is smaller than the hole through the body, I've had good success using a square shaped file. Insert, give it a slight twist so the teeth on the file catch the inner edges of the ferrule and then pull straight back. You can usually test to see if they have been glued in or not by gently rocking the ferrule back and forth prior to pulling to see if there is any play. If there is, then proceed slowly and keep an ear out as the top of the ferrule reaches the lip of the counter sink for any cracking noises that may be a sign of the finish lifting.
I prefer this method over using a punch or screwdriver exclusively to knock them out from the back as you have finer control over the extraction process. That said, if the ferrules are glued in, using a punch from the neck pocket side towards the back can assist you in tapping them out a little to loosen the bond. Then use the file to pull them out the rest of the way.
If the inner diameter of the ferrules is larger than the screw hole, just leave them alone - no one is going to know they're there but you. This is exactly what I have done on my 2001 4-63. When I first removed them, prior to refinishing using some dental picks - yes, the long narrow pointy things your dentists uses to clean your teeth, I wasn't too worried about chipping paint - and I did. I had trouble sourcing the same size ferrules that are on the earlier models so I just put the old ones back in when I reassembled the bass. Later, when I tried to remove them to re-measure in my quest to black out all the hardware on this particular bass, they did not want to budge due to overspray from the refinishing process which left the counter sink narrower.
I should also mention putting them back in. Sometimes they'll just drop right back in no problem, but then there are times (more often) when they don't just slip back down and seat properly, especially after a refin.
I have found that using a large ratcheting bar clamp can assist in pressing them in. Use one that is large enough to allow for the width and length of the neck pocket. The trick here is to place the ferrule in the counter sink so that it is sitting as level as possible, then ratchet the clamp closed to press the ferrule into the hole. Even a dead blow hammer can leave marks in the finish with a miss-hit, so don't use a hammer - which you will be tempted to do when one of these things won't seat easily.
I have found that using a large ratcheting bar clamp can assist in pressing them in. Use one that is large enough to allow for the width and length of the neck pocket. The trick here is to place the ferrule in the counter sink so that it is sitting as level as possible, then ratchet the clamp closed to press the ferrule into the hole. Even a dead blow hammer can leave marks in the finish with a miss-hit, so don't use a hammer - which you will be tempted to do when one of these things won't seat easily.
Thanks guys! It sounds like it's a bit of challenge and potentially paint chipping if I'm not careful.
This is for a future skyline purchase and I don't plan on a refinish of the body.
I know that you can remove the string thru body ferrules by heating with a soldering iron.
Do you think the soldering iron trick work with the neck ferrules too?
This is for a future skyline purchase and I don't plan on a refinish of the body.
I know that you can remove the string thru body ferrules by heating with a soldering iron.
Do you think the soldering iron trick work with the neck ferrules too?
For the string through ferrules I just used a drill bit and oversized the holes. I then used a long straight brass drift punch to knock them out.
So you heat the ferrules causing them to expand, and when they cool back down they're loose-er than before?
For string ferrules I have simply used a phillips screw driver that fits the existing holes and punched them through using a dead blow. Heating is usually only required when they are set in lacquer - which I have yet to encounter on a bass, guitars, now that's a different story.
Heating is supposed to melt any lacquer that is used sometimes to set ferrules that don't have ridges to help hold them in place. I've really only come across this on string through guitars, usually Teles.
Man, I am glad I have never faced this challenge, nor plan to encounter it!!
I thought it was...
Baby, baby, ooohhh... Don't fear the Bieber
He's not really a man... Don't fear the Bieber
His monkey's in quarantine... Don't fear the Bieber
He's an autotune fan...
Baby, baby, ooohhh... Don't fear the Bieber
He's not really a man... Don't fear the Bieber
His monkey's in quarantine... Don't fear the Bieber
He's an autotune fan...
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