If by "treat" you mean use orange oil or fingerboard oil, you won't hurt the strings by removing them. It will make it easier to clean the neck.
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If by "treat" you mean use orange oil or fingerboard oil, you won't hurt the strings by removing them. It will make it easier to clean the neck.
Check out the figured walnut bridge I just finished for the 5501. Very sexy if I do say so myself...
Quick run at Lowe's only had Murphy Pure Vegetable Oil Soap (with Natural Orange Extract) Clean and Shine Multi-Use wood cleaner. Ok for use on the fingerboard?
Check out the figured walnut bridge I just finished for the 5501. Very sexy if I do say so myself...
awesome!!!
Feed-N-Wax is what you want for sure. I picked some up from Ace Hardware. You can probably find some at your equivalent local store.
I did get the Feed-N-Wax too - should I just use that on the fingerboard and skip the Murphy?
Sweet, thanks for the help Texan and overbybr . . . final question (for now) - how often do you recommend this treatment? I gig this bass at least once a week and I'm here in south Louisiana humidity, etc.
I'm in Houston, so same climate. It depends on how much sweat you get on the board, your pH, and how the particular wood that you have holds the wax and oil. I watch my boards and if they start to look dry, take the strings off and give it a coat. Do the neck and the board at the same time just because its easier. Let sit 20 or so minutes and buff out.
I have two basses with rosewood fretboards and one maple. One of the rosewood seems to look dry every 2-3 gigs. The other rarely looks dry. The maple rarley looks dry as well. Just depends on the piece of wood.
I have two basses with rosewood fretboards and one maple. One of the rosewood seems to look dry every 2-3 gigs. The other rarely looks dry. The maple rarley looks dry as well. Just depends on the piece of wood.
I recently bought a bass on TB classifieds that was described as having some unusual details, does anybody know if there is a way to verify this stuff? I *d the specs that are unusual. I'm figuring the preamp is aftermarket, not sure on the rest.
USA JO5 - *Built by Dan Lakin
Alder Body (some nice flame and figure in some places)
Maple Neck
*Madagascar Rosewood board
*NITROCELLULOSE FINISH
Sunburst
35"
*CUSTOM Aero Alnico 2 passive pickups
*Audere 3 band preamp with ZMode 6 way rotary switch
Its an amazing bass either way, and I will say the fingerboard is smoother and darker than other laklands I've had, and it does seem like it could be a nitro finish body.
Serial number dates it to approx 2009.
I also snagged a USA BG from bass central on their clearance sale -- so I'm back in club lakland with a vengeance.
USA JO5 - *Built by Dan Lakin
Alder Body (some nice flame and figure in some places)
Maple Neck
*Madagascar Rosewood board
*NITROCELLULOSE FINISH
Sunburst
35"
*CUSTOM Aero Alnico 2 passive pickups
*Audere 3 band preamp with ZMode 6 way rotary switch
Its an amazing bass either way, and I will say the fingerboard is smoother and darker than other laklands I've had, and it does seem like it could be a nitro finish body.
Serial number dates it to approx 2009.
I also snagged a USA BG from bass central on their clearance sale -- so I'm back in club lakland with a vengeance.
Nice, congrats! I would check with Lakland, they should be able to match up the serial number and the details.
FWIW, I very much doubt Dan himself built the bass, if that's what they were implying. '09 would be before he sold the company, however.
Lakland probably won't be able to confirm the audere preamp specs, unless it was a custom build request.
Welcome back!
Welcome back!
Are any of you guys located on Long Island that may have a 34" scale hollow body I can try out? I'm in western suffolk...Pete
