ive always played light, hit medium once but mostly light. HEavy i find to thick and doesnt have as much as "Ching" brightness to it.
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Light gauge users..what's your reason?
- Thread starter Figjam
- Start date
After this summer, I found that a set with a .105 E works well for R&B and Funk gigging and recording, but doesn't work quite so well with Jazz. Especially on a P-bass.
SMASH said:
I thought you swore by heavy gauge Ernie Balls...
I've shifted from mainly playing Hi-Beams which feels very light, to playing 50-128 Blue Steels. I like the extra lows and low mids that I get from this. Don't have to dial in so much bass as I used to. Well, wrong thread (but ever since finding out Gail Ann Dorsey played Rotosound funkmasters (30-90 I think), I've been wanting to try some).
It's all physics for me. Lighter guage strings acheive their respective tuning with less string tention. So:
1) They are much easier to play. Less strength is required. You can play lighter.
2) More expressiveness via vibrato, bending, etc.
3) Less tensioon on the neck makes the bass more responsive IMO as the wood is more stiff relative to the string tention
4) They are easier on frets and necks.
I use super lights 40-95 and would say that is about optima. I can go as light as 35-95. In my late 80's Rush fan days I used Funkmasters (30-90) but for a 4 stringer, that is just silly. However, I will occaisionally sandwhich 30-90 sets between a really light high C and low B on my 6 string, where string and neck tension issues are magnified.
1) They are much easier to play. Less strength is required. You can play lighter.
2) More expressiveness via vibrato, bending, etc.
3) Less tensioon on the neck makes the bass more responsive IMO as the wood is more stiff relative to the string tention
4) They are easier on frets and necks.
I use super lights 40-95 and would say that is about optima. I can go as light as 35-95. In my late 80's Rush fan days I used Funkmasters (30-90) but for a 4 stringer, that is just silly. However, I will occaisionally sandwhich 30-90 sets between a really light high C and low B on my 6 string, where string and neck tension issues are magnified.
I like thicker gauges. I got a 125 B DR -- I wish they were 130 or 135. I have medium hands but I started on the upright so I am used to digging in. I can't play 95. But I am satisfied with the meduim 125-45 with a 105 E but not lighter than that. I do however like what Michael Manring does with his lightly strung Zon
i use 45-100 light guage and have no problem getting thick lows with pick or fingers. american jazz bass with pretty flat eq. i dont slap either.
I use a .118 B on my 6 and 7.... no floppiness at all. For stainless rounds I prefer the tone of light gauge strings.
My 5 has bridge cable sized flats
light gauge elixers = heaven
I have never played any other brand of strings that ever came anywhere near my elixers...
I have NEVER experienced a set of elixer strings dying.. i only change them when they SNAP.. and they STILL sound brand new... I love the feel of them too. They are WORTH the money because they will last 20 times longer than cheaper strings
I have never played any other brand of strings that ever came anywhere near my elixers...
I have NEVER experienced a set of elixer strings dying.. i only change them when they SNAP.. and they STILL sound brand new... I love the feel of them too. They are WORTH the money because they will last 20 times longer than cheaper strings
Maybe I'm crazy, but I feel that a lighter gauge B actually sounds clearer with the notes being more distinct.
The B string is not floppy at all.
2 basic reasons
1) the bass really shouldnt have heavy strings on them for structural reasons, vintage Rick 4001 comes to mind, and a variety of others, hollow body etc.
2) the tonality is sometimes better with a smaller gauge, on a particular instrument for example on a fretless 4 the 40-100 set on my Wals has a much better balance than a 45-105 set
(where on my fretted 4s I find the 100 is missing something and I go 105-45)
especially true on 5 strings, go 120 or 125 max for the low B and keep that tone focused.
Ultimately you need to develop your ear so you can hear the differences and have a sense for what the bass is giving you as well, then experiment until you find the set that clicks.
1) the bass really shouldnt have heavy strings on them for structural reasons, vintage Rick 4001 comes to mind, and a variety of others, hollow body etc.
2) the tonality is sometimes better with a smaller gauge, on a particular instrument for example on a fretless 4 the 40-100 set on my Wals has a much better balance than a 45-105 set
(where on my fretted 4s I find the 100 is missing something and I go 105-45)
especially true on 5 strings, go 120 or 125 max for the low B and keep that tone focused.
Ultimately you need to develop your ear so you can hear the differences and have a sense for what the bass is giving you as well, then experiment until you find the set that clicks.
- Dec 18, 2000
- 13,201
- 340
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On my fretless five I'm currently using D'Addario XL: .038 (guitar)-.050-.065-.085-.120 (on B/A Hipshot). Took a while to get used to them, but since they are balanced-tension the feel is very even; that helped. Now I don't even notice.
I have always used light gauge strings. .120-40 (5 String)
I use DR Lo-Riders. I was using Hi-Beams, but they were a little too loose (round core) and extremely bright when new. I like lights because i feel I can play a little faster/easier.
I use DR Lo-Riders. I was using Hi-Beams, but they were a little too loose (round core) and extremely bright when new. I like lights because i feel I can play a little faster/easier.
One thing I haven't heard mentioned here is the headroom you get with heavier guages.
50-110 do seem to have too much tension to me but anything less than 45-105, (and 130 low B), and you can only play them so hard. Try doing a really long buildup with a drummer in any style of music - do you find that you run out of gas before you're where you need to go?
Seems like when I dig in with lighter strings they start traveling away from the pickups and acually get lower in volume.
50-110 do seem to have too much tension to me but anything less than 45-105, (and 130 low B), and you can only play them so hard. Try doing a really long buildup with a drummer in any style of music - do you find that you run out of gas before you're where you need to go?
Seems like when I dig in with lighter strings they start traveling away from the pickups and acually get lower in volume.
I use light gauges because my '76 4001 has neck problems (Truss rods are completely immobile), so in order to get the lowest action I can I have to use light strings.
For those of you that use light gauge strings (E string is .100 or .095 or smaller) why do you use them? Just seeing what all the possible advantages of them are. I like them on my Godin because it makes double thumbing less painful
I use 'em because they don't require quite as much force to play, so I can use a lighter touch - which in turn allows me to play with a little more nuance and precision. Lighter gauge strings are also a little more supple and flexible, for string bending, playing harmonics, and the like. Plus they allow for slightly lower action...
MM
