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Looking for a bright sounding bass.

I thought that's what you were after but as your initial post was so sparse, I wasn't sure if that's what you meant. ;) Hot pu's closer to the bridge than the neck, maple neck (& body) and 'bright' flats (ones recommended) regardless of instrument brand.
Thanks. This makes sense. What do you think is more essential; maple neck (I'm assuming fret board too) or the body wood?
 
An ash Dean Sledgehammer.
If you can find one.
s-l1600.jpghililoh.jpg
 
Thanks. This makes sense. What do you think is more essential; maple neck (I'm assuming fret board too) or the body wood?

Both. Rosewood or maple finger/fretboard.
You don't want bright maple neck tones damped by a not so bright body wood or vice versa- it's continuity for the sum of the range carried.

I would tend to agree in general (ala Ric's being maple body/neck) that this is true (combined with what I mentioned) to lead to an ultimately bright bass. However, where the real animal lives with any instrument is how each part combined results in a holistically awesome sounding instrument. Think of it like a high-end (Trek) carbon road bicycle; it's how the carbon is woven, how it is shaped and where it allows flex or promotes stiffness that will result in an amazing response when riding it. Similarly, a bass can be 'tuned' by all of the parts including wood choices. Staying with the Trek analogy - I toured their factory in Wisconsin and they related a story where they set out to build the stiffest carbon bike possible. (one element in it's performance character) It conformed in appearance to their current production bike but all internals (how and where the carbon was woven) was geared to ultimate stiffness. Looked exactly like their production bike which performed amazingly, weighed the same but was unridable/dangerous. (too stiff) Skepticism over wood as being important aside - I could build 5 P-basses, each with different woods, bridges, pu's, electronics, strings and nuts - and each one would have it's own character different from the others. Point being, an all maple bass may be bright, but may not sound great. Even nuts can be made of hybrid materials (brass/bone) to promote tonal nuances.

As far as order of why a bass sounds like it does, it's pu's/electronics, neck, strings, body, everything else.
 
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I would tend to agree in general (ala Ric's being maple body/neck) that this is true (combined with what I mentioned) to lead to an ultimately bright bass. However, where the real animal lives with any instrument is how each part combined results in a holistically awesome sounding instrument. Think of it like a high-end (Trek) carbon road bicycle; it's how the carbon is woven, how it is shaped and where it allows flex or promotes stiffness that will result in an amazing response when riding it. Similarly, a bass can be 'tuned' by all of the parts including wood choices. Staying with the Trek analogy - I toured their factory in Wisconsin and they related a story where they set out to build the stiffest carbon bike possible. (one element in it's performance character) It conformed in appearance to their current production bike but all internals (how and where the carbon was woven) was geared to ultimate stiffness. Looked exactly like their production bike which performed amazingly, weighed the same but was unridable/dangerous. (too stiff) Skepticism over wood as being important aside - I could build 5 P-basses, each with different woods, bridges, pu's, electronics, strings and nuts - and each one would have it's own character different from the others. Point being, an all maple bass may be bright, but may not sound great. Even nuts can be made of hybrid materials (brass/bone) to promote tonal nuances.

As far as order of why a bass sounds like it does, it's pu's/electronics, neck, strings, body, everything else.

Love this post, but think strings are way more fundamental. ...just my experience.
 
Love this post, but think strings are way more fundamental. ...just my experience.

You're probably right Tom - I wasn't sure where to position them in terms of overall tone character. I just go by my ears and what Phil Kubicki wrote about the topic. He felt the neck/fb (wood) were after pu's/electronics as being most important, but as you say strings can make a big difference.
 
As an example of what I stated about the successful blend of all parts - one bass I created blows me away every time I play it. The P-body was very heavy ash that I drilled full of various sized holes (from the back), coupled with a wenge neck/ebony fb, a thru-body brass anchor for the brass bridge, a Novak Darkstar pu in the P position, one stacked V/T knob/500k pot, brass nut and GHS Pressurewound med gauge strings. I'm not sure if I could repeat it - but all things I did resulted in an incredible sounding bass full of depth/richness and character. It's also very unique visually! :)

IMG_0283_zpsn0ynpcvf.jpg


IMG_0284_zpsz3imdgg3.jpg
 
As an example of what I stated about the successful blend of all parts - one bass I created blows me away every time I play it. The P-body was very heavy ash that I drilled full of various sized holes (from the back), coupled with a wenge neck/ebony fb, a thru-body brass anchor for the brass bridge, a Novak Darkstar pu in the P position, one stacked V/T knob/500k pot, brass nut and GHS Pressurewound med gauge strings. I'm not sure if I could repeat it - but all things I did resulted in an incredible sounding bass full of depth/richness and character. It's also very unique visually! :)

IMG_0283_zpsn0ynpcvf.jpg


IMG_0284_zpsz3imdgg3.jpg
 
Did you drill holes to reduce the weight or were there other reasons? Sweet looking bass BTW.

:) Thanks! It was an example of a process - I bought the sparkle ash body as a closeout (good price) and when it arrives it weighed over 6lbs! I was going to return it and then thought that I could do a major chambering to lighten it - it became an experiment. I'd done this before but not to this extent and once I got going it evolved into something of an art project. Complete it still is not light (9lbs/5oz), partially due to the wenge/ebony neck - but it resulted in a great sounding bass. I believe it all added up in the end and sounds the way it does because of all these factors. (dense wood, chambering etc) You can visit the build thread here for details - black & blond P makeover (etc)
 
Ash work just as well as maple body?

Usually, ash is brighter than alder, but maple is brighter than ash. Brightness comes from a harder wood - warmth from a softer wood. There are always exceptions to the rule, but in general this is the case.
 
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Ash work just as well as maple body?

Depends how bright you like.
A '96 Ibanez SR506, Hohner B-BASS VI, Godin BG5, and Ibanez SR375 are brighter than the ash, basswood and mahogany basses I have (so all played thru the same equip for comparison). They are so bright (still plenty mids and bottom, just balanced) that I don't have s/s strings on any of them. Instead, Copper White tapes, Pressure Wounds, SB Nickels, and Fodera Nickels- each with different strings that fit that particular bass well.
All active, Hohner is neck thru, others b/on.
With all maple I feel all the frequencies are there- avail, and I can dial out what I don't need or want at any time.
The basses not of maple sound just as good but not all the frequencies are avail. It all depends what is needed for what is being played.