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Low Action fast Bass Guitars

I played a Fender Geddy Lee jazz bass and a Roscoe LG3005 that had the absolute lowest action I had ever played on and they were both amazing. Yamaha TRBs can get really too, come too think of it. Spectors are kind of hit and miss. My Euro 4LX has pretty low action but my Euro 6LX is crazy high by most people standards. It could more than likely go much lower but I like the action on my basses to be high. The SSD NS-5 (USA NS-5XL) that I played today had the lowest action on any Spector that I've played and it sounded amazing. Based on the basses that you were describing in your first post I'd say find a Geddy or a Yamaha TRB100x.
 
I'm not too fussed about the action really on my basses, I feel it is more crucial on guitars, not basses.

The last couple of basses I've bought have come set up by the factory with a very low action, which is fine, but if anything I prefer a slightly higher action. It doesn't (or shouldn't) affect playing speed (contrary to belief).
 
Ibanez, Spector, Music Man, and G&L all have narrow to somewhat narrow string spacing and all will take a good setup.

Find something that you like the sound and feel of and then set it up the way you like. Whenever I get a new (to me) bass I pretty much assume that it's going to need strings and a setup. It's not that I expect the setup to be 'bad' or 'wrong' when I get it, but it probably won't be set up for me.
 
I play a schecter stiletto diamond series. The action is lower than any other bass I have played so far. The neck is narrow and fast. I love it. Im looking for another bass with a different tone and possibly a 5 stringer. We play standard and alot of drop C tunings.

I went to 3 music stores yesterday, and could not find a bass with low action like my schecter. I was looking to try a specter but none of the stores had them. Anybody got any recommendations on low action fast bass guitars?

Yesterday I played MTD, Musicman, Ibanez, fender, and a bunch of other brands.

It is not the Schecter ... you have a bass with a good setup. Almost any bass can be setup to play well or play poorly. Most basses in music stores need a setup.

I had a Schecter C5. I absolutely loved the bass ... until ... until I played it with the band. The crappy 2 band preamp and emg pickups did not cut through the mix at all except for a rumbley undefined low end. Per haps with a 3 or 4 band preamp it would sound better.
 
Buy an American Vintage 57 or 62 reissue P bass. Have it setup by a good luthier. After you see how great that P works with everyrthing, go get a P-5 and have it set up also. Mission accomplished. :)_
 
Ibanez, Spector, Music Man, and G&L all have narrow to somewhat narrow string spacing and all will take a good setup.

Find something that you like the sound and feel of and then set it up the way you like. Whenever I get a new (to me) bass I pretty much assume that it's going to need strings and a setup. It's not that I expect the setup to be 'bad' or 'wrong' when I get it, but it probably won't be set up for me.

The only thing here I disagree with is a need for new strings if you are buying from a store. I demand it be restrung before I buy it at anywhere near the sticker price. It's just right and if you insist on it and aren't being a pain about haggling they will usually oblige you. I also will ask for a preliminary setup on it just to make sure the saddles all adjust, the pup screws aren't stripped etc. They owe you that much IMO.
 
My L2500 is probably the best setup job I've done so far. The only difficulty I have is the nut slot for the B. My nut file can't seem to get it any further down without wearing into the fingerboard wood for no apparent reason. But it's low enough to be comfortable at this point.

But it's the first one I've actually managed to get the action virtually the same all up and down the entire board.

Also the string spacing, neck width/thickness, PU placement are as ideal as I've ever found on any 5-holer I've tried. Has some neck dive is the only problem.

Looking forward to getting my Bunny 6 (I estimate early Sept.) which I suspect will be able to be setup with similar, if not better, action....

LS
 
Fret size shouldn't have anything to do with your action.. you are only pushing the note down to the top of the fret.. I don't see why any particular model would offer you a better action.. If the frets are level, the saddles go down far enough, and the nut is cut well, it really shouldn't matter what brand or model it is.
 
Fret size shouldn't have anything to do with your action.. you are only pushing the note down to the top of the fret.. I don't see why any particular model would offer you a better action.. If the frets are level, the saddles go down far enough, and the nut is cut well, it really shouldn't matter what brand or model it is.

all true. but if its a total POS, then it may not be doable.