Thank you for your observation - I wrote the wrong number dim "B" and "E" are the same 10.5" - just measured again and I was wrong it my first listing it is 10.5"
Sorry for the confusion
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Low-cost DIY practice/coffeehouse tweeterless 110 [long]
- Thread starter DukeLeJeune
- Start date
Thank you for your observation - I wrote the wrong number dim "B" and "E" are the same 10.5" - just measured again and I was wrong it my first listing it is 10.5"
Sorry for the confusion
Planning on going down this road. I bought a pair of Deltalite II 2510s a while back to make a pair of BFM 10.5s, got 80% done with one, and lost steam (stopped gigging, don't have a good place to use the finished cab, other reasons). I'll finish it some day, but probably won't build the second, so I've got an extra 2510 on hand. Then I realized a very compact 1x10 could fit nicely in my office/work area, and the boxes in this thread would be nearly perfect. The boxes are still easy to find on eBay for just under $30, and a grill with anchors is another $7. My performance needs are negligible -- cost and space considerations are my top concerns (I still have my schroeder if I suddenly needed a cab for a show). I was going down the path of building something, but even a simple box would be more work than I want to invest in this.
My plan is to build, use, see how it goes. Then I'm going to explore chopping 2" off the back. That's completely to accommodate my office space, and some aesthetics in the room. I've been reading around, and working with WinISD to see if I can understand how that will affect the final cab. I've checked the resulting volume against the 2510's spec sheet for a ported design, and it appears to be still well within the specified range. I tinker with the tuning in WinISD, and get different port values and the graph updates, but I don't have enough experience to know how that will all play out to my ears, so I'm just going to have to give it a go.
I'm going very low cost, so just box, grill, no handles, very simple jack (using whatever I already have lying around) -- my goal is to stay under $37, with the understanding that I already had an unused 2510. Hmmm...I got the speaker for about $74, so that means I'm going to get very close to building this 1x10 for $110...
My plan is to build, use, see how it goes. Then I'm going to explore chopping 2" off the back. That's completely to accommodate my office space, and some aesthetics in the room. I've been reading around, and working with WinISD to see if I can understand how that will affect the final cab. I've checked the resulting volume against the 2510's spec sheet for a ported design, and it appears to be still well within the specified range. I tinker with the tuning in WinISD, and get different port values and the graph updates, but I don't have enough experience to know how that will all play out to my ears, so I'm just going to have to give it a go.
I'm going very low cost, so just box, grill, no handles, very simple jack (using whatever I already have lying around) -- my goal is to stay under $37, with the understanding that I already had an unused 2510. Hmmm...I got the speaker for about $74, so that means I'm going to get very close to building this 1x10 for $110...
It models fairly well in WinISD (very quick and dirty on my part). You should be OK.
KO
KO
Thanks!
Ordered my cab, and found an even cheaper grill + anchors set for $4, so I think that's a nearly 10% reduction in costs (wrecks my 110 for 110 tagline, though! I have both polyfill (found some in speakers a neighbor was throwing out) and a mattress topper (family member was throwing out) so I can experiment with those if it sounds like some padding is needed.
Hey people - I was going to build two more cabinet but decided not to. If interested I listed what I have for sale:
For Sale - DIY 10 Cabinet Kit - all you need is a speaker
Thanks for looking.
LennyJ
For Sale - DIY 10 Cabinet Kit - all you need is a speaker
Thanks for looking.
LennyJ
All done. I'm definitely happy with the result -- it fits the space and delivers a great tone. I'm not much of a tone freak, but I think it responds quite will to the range of sounds the Hartke can produce. I really just use the Focus flat, almost as a power amp. The grill is exactly what you'd expect for $5 -- it's flimsy. Given the shape, there's enough rigidity around the rim to give good protection. But I would never trust it anywhere someone might kick it, or drop it. 75 bucks of speaker is worth a properly thick $10-15 grill. Some more elegant touches would be to recess the speaker -- the MDF is very thick, and with some nice t-nuts, I think you could get this thing 1/2" into the face. I just need a 90deg plug for the back so I can push the cab a bit further back. I will probably consider narrowing the box a bunch of times, but I'll also probably never do it.
All done. I'm definitely happy with the result -- it fits the space and delivers a great tone. I'm not much of a tone freak, but I think it responds quite will to the range of sounds the Hartke can produce. I really just use the Focus flat, almost as a power amp. The grill is exactly what you'd expect for $5 -- it's flimsy. Given the shape, there's enough rigidity around the rim to give good protection. But I would never trust it anywhere someone might kick it, or drop it. 75 bucks of speaker is worth a properly thick $10-15 grill. Some more elegant touches would be to recess the speaker -- the MDF is very thick, and with some nice t-nuts, I think you could get this thing 1/2" into the face. I just need a 90deg plug for the back so I can push the cab a bit further back. I will probably consider narrowing the box a bunch of times, but I'll also probably never do it.
Excellent job and I'm envious of your little practice space! I loved those old mini guitar combos by GK!
Congrats!
Passinwind
I know nothing.
- Dec 3, 2003
- 23,064
- 45,978
- Disclosures
- Designer/Toaster Tech @ Passinwind Electronics
lol -- yeah, man! Every time I've thought about including it in a deal or selling it, I keep coming back to all the things I like about it. Somewhat related note -- a few weeks ago I put your xover back in the 1210, too, and I'm really hooked on that! So Cheers on both counts!
Here is my recent build - a Fender rumble 500 in a case with my recent DIY 10 build. One cabinet down and the second in progress.
The grilles are stainless.
The grilles are stainless.
I never realized that the quest for the perfect little 10" home made cab is still continuing! 
@LennyJ I really like the stuff you're doing, and the Rumble cab is very cool.
I don't know why, but I don't get the WinISD stuff. I'm what i consider technically minded I do technical work for a living, but it doesn't sink in! I still would love to see a mini-Duke LeJuene style 10" cab. It would be even smaller than the H1203 and I would stack two with my GK MB200. The issue I have with the Speaker Express cab is that it's still too deep for me. I would like a cab about 12.5" deep, and 16" tall x 12" wide. Nice fat bottom port.... I'm thinking I'll steal your design you kindly posted earlier. The other difference is I would use 1/2" or 5/8" plywood instead of 3/4". My goal is a very light cab. Also I would use Duratex instead of carpet--my dog is a blonde and his hair gets on everything.
@LennyJ I really like the stuff you're doing, and the Rumble cab is very cool.
I don't know why, but I don't get the WinISD stuff. I'm what i consider technically minded I do technical work for a living, but it doesn't sink in! I still would love to see a mini-Duke LeJuene style 10" cab. It would be even smaller than the H1203 and I would stack two with my GK MB200. The issue I have with the Speaker Express cab is that it's still too deep for me. I would like a cab about 12.5" deep, and 16" tall x 12" wide. Nice fat bottom port.... I'm thinking I'll steal your design you kindly posted earlier. The other difference is I would use 1/2" or 5/8" plywood instead of 3/4". My goal is a very light cab. Also I would use Duratex instead of carpet--my dog is a blonde and his hair gets on everything.
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I think Barefaced cabs keep their weight down with thinner materials and more internal bracing, so you could explore that with your own approach. The beauty of this thread was cheap-and-simple: the box, as delivered, was a good match for the speakers, so you really didn't have to do much if anything.
WinISD is tricky at first, but I found it made more sense when I had full speaker info in front of me, and I had some existing boxes I could use as examples to work from. I think the simple gist of it is making sure you build a box with enough internal volume and the correct port(s). I didn't have tuning goals in mind, so the port part was harder for me to understand -- you pick how you tune it, but if you don't know how you would perceive the difference between a few khz here and there, it can be hard to pick a number and just go with it. Again, that's what I liked about this quick cab idea -- you could plug in the numbers and get a rough idea of how this box is tuned, and then when you do one on your own, you have a point of reference to work from.
WinISD is tricky at first, but I found it made more sense when I had full speaker info in front of me, and I had some existing boxes I could use as examples to work from. I think the simple gist of it is making sure you build a box with enough internal volume and the correct port(s). I didn't have tuning goals in mind, so the port part was harder for me to understand -- you pick how you tune it, but if you don't know how you would perceive the difference between a few khz here and there, it can be hard to pick a number and just go with it. Again, that's what I liked about this quick cab idea -- you could plug in the numbers and get a rough idea of how this box is tuned, and then when you do one on your own, you have a point of reference to work from.
Thank you @lethargytartare . Your explanation makes sense to me. Also like your saying Born of Beer and lack of adult supervision! That would be me except for the fact that my wife is the grown up and constantly supervises me!
Wes
These are the ones you and I were talking about - I finished this one and working on the second now.
Can't wait to finish the rig
Thanks all for the "likes"
You are free to trade port height and width to maintain area. You can make the box skinny and tall but less deep to maintain box volume, until the back gets too close to the port slot end.I never realized that the quest for the perfect little 10" home made cab is still continuing!
@LennyJ I really like the stuff you're doing, and the Rumble cab is very cool.
I don't know why, but I don't get the WinISD stuff. I'm what i consider technically minded I do technical work for a living, but it doesn't sink in! I still would love to see a mini-Duke LeJuene style 10" cab. It would be even smaller than the H1203 and I would stack two with my GK MB200. The issue I have with the Speaker Express cab is that it's still too deep for me. I would like a cab about 12.5" deep, and 16" tall x 12" wide. Nice fat bottom port.... I'm thinking I'll steal your design you kindly posted earlier. The other difference is I would use 1/2"it a skinny twoor 5/8" plywood instead of 3/4". My goal is a very light cab. Also I would use Duratex instead of carpet--my dog is a blonde and his hair gets on everything.
I am sure you can do about anything. But remember this started as a way to build less expensive cabinets for small to medium gigs, and this was to use off the shelf parts to keep the price below a couple hundred.
The only difference in mine are that I did not like the "off the shelf" boxes so I built mine out of real wood. I am sure if you keep the internal vol the same you would be ok.
But ask DUKE he will help you.
Good luck.
Thanks Downunderwonder. I was only thinking of shaving off an inch, say going to 12'5". And adjust the internal volume in height/or width.
Thanks LennyJ. As a matter of fact I did contact Duke about this. I've bought two cabs from him and probably will buy a few more down the road. I don't mind building a couple small 10" cabs as a side project to go with my GK MB200. We're just having fun here, right?
Port is over 11'' deep iirc. The other thing you could do if the cab depth is SO much of a problem would be run the port up the back some and stop at the baffle. For a tall cab simpler would be stop the back 3'' short of the bottom and overlap an internal ''second back'' by the amount of port length.
