Low-cost DIY practice/coffeehouse tweeterless 110 [long]

[BadExample]

Now after a while - HOW ARE THE 12's DOING - still works for you.

They’re still rockin. I’m up to 8 cabs now, so they don’t get a ton of play, but the speakers are an awesome bang for the buck. I have access to a really nice wood shop, so I’m tempted to make proper boxes for them. I say this because the weakest link is the mdf box. Wood boxes would make it lighter, stronger, and I could tweak the dimensions to make it more optimal for the drivers. 2 youngins and a honey do list doesn’t leave me much free time though. For random drivers in boxes, they do not suck.

Will you ever go after defurring another rat fur cab?

I was sooo anti-rat-fur until I got ahold of a Bag End. Now I respect rat fur

I read through your build thread again today. You really did a nice job on those little cabs. I dig it. Thanks for posting all the details in your thread, bro.

 

[Mr. Business]

Will you ever go after defurring another rat fur cab?

I was sooo anti-rat-fur until I got ahold of a Bag End. Now I respect rat fur

I read through your build thread again today. You really did a nice job on those little cabs. I dig it. Thanks for posting all the details in your thread, bro.

No prob and if you’ve already defurred a cab, I think you know my answer is NO. That stuff has my respect too. I now know why it is used. It’s not pretty, but it’s dang durable. I still hate it. Maybe more now than before.

 

[kraigo]

I understand that Duke made this project for every player... but if you wanted to take the best out from the Deltalite what tuning and cab dimensions would you use?
I'm working on a 2x8+tweeter but an 1x10" is always nice to have and I'd like to read what you guys think. Could this cab be made any "better" building a bigger cab?

Zombie thread, I know. I spent today revisiting this cab. I built two of them. I have one lent out with a friend along with an MB200, which is a pretty damned good match for this cab.

Anyway, the way it stands, by my calculations it's a poor five string cab. It tunes above 60 Hz. It measures to be about exactly 1 ft^3. 1.2 ft^3 works better as it gets the tuning frequency below 60 Hz. Actually, the cone excursion graphs in WinISD don't look too scary.

I'm working out a way to cut back the shelf port to something more sensible. I still think that the cab is the weak link in this design, but without the means to make sawdust its the most cost-effective and low pain way forward.

I'm looking forward to trying to make this thing a little better. I'm going to add the tweeter and possibly the notch filters, since I bought the parts all those years ago. I'm not a big fan of the tone of the s2010 flat, but I can make it sound OK with a little tweaking on the MB200. If I get the sound better I'll bolt the MB200 to it and use it as a combo. It still checks a lot of boxes for me as to fulfilling a need.

It's fun reading through this thread again!

 

[basscooker]

Dude, you're going to try to outgun The Duke.... Best wishes.

I love this thread, and all the tangents, ideas, tweaks, etc. The concept of a low cost premade box that is a good platform for new diy'ers and those without much if any woodworking tools/skills is brilliant.

I will be doing a similar build thread soon... A low cost thingie with off the shelf products that just needs assembled. Hopefully it will turn into a nice "open source" kind of thread where other members can add input that may prove less expensive and/or better in performance.

Thank you @DukeLeJeune for the inspiration. My "challenge" will be making it cost less to the diy'er... If you have looked into my business model ever you will get it... I'm all about inexpensive.

Probably based on MCM 55-2960...8" great little thumpers like $20 each. You're gonna love it. I've worked with them before... See my avatar.

 

[kraigo]

I had designed a 2x8 "briefcase" amp to go along with an MB200. It was based around a Dayton 8" which went out of production before I could follow through. The 55-2960 is interesting, but it's also hard to find (out of production, Newark Electronics has 9 of them). I'm tempted, but I think I'll pass because I have a real back log of projects right now.

KO

Dude, you're going to try to outgun The Duke.... Best wishes.

I love this thread, and all the tangents, ideas, tweaks, etc. The concept of a low cost premade box that is a good platform for new diy'ers and those without much if any woodworking tools/skills is brilliant.

I will be doing a similar build thread soon... A low cost thingie with off the shelf products that just needs assembled. Hopefully it will turn into a nice "open source" kind of thread where other members can add input that may prove less expensive and/or better in performance.

Thank you @DukeLeJeune for the inspiration. My "challenge" will be making it cost less to the diy'er... If you have looked into my business model ever you will get it... I'm all about inexpensive.

Probably based on MCM 55-2960...8" great little thumpers like $20 each. You're gonna love it. I've worked with them before... See my avatar.

 

[kraigo]

I have a pair of PA310 speakers and a plan to use them as a pair of lower cost bass cabs. I appreciate the link to the cabs. It's very tempting, but they really don't do it for me. I'll end up doing my own.

KO

I'm think of something like this instead:

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I'll put a small sealed box behind the 6-1/2.
With a 4" dia by 8" long port the cabinet will be tuned to about 45hz

It'll come in just under 50 lbs, right about $200.00.

 

[basscooker]

The 55-2960 is interesting, but it's also hard to find (out of production, Newark Electronics has 9 of them). ...

Showing 200 units due at the end of December. Current stock is 9 though. I may go on and clean those up.

 

[kraigo]

I'm sure that you're right. Playing today, I can crank my MB200 into this cab with an obstructed port. More experimentation will be coming.

KO

I plugged the numbers for the driver and the Parts Express box into WinISD Pro. I assumed a net cabinet volume of 1622 in^3 after subtracting the speaker and port displaced volumes.

With the full width port (pic), it looks like there is a cone excursion problem at 40 Hz and full power (150 watts). X goes to 10.6 mm, which is over the mechanical excursion limit Xlim of 8mm, and way over the Xmax of 4mm. You'd have to cut the power about in half to keep from hitting Xlim and down to around 20W to stay under Xmax.

With the reduced width port, the situation is better. You still go over Xmax at 40Hz, but it doesn't hit Xlim.

I don't believe WinISD can give absolute numbers, but it seems pretty clear in this case that if you want to build this cab (great idea, btw) reducing the port width is a good idea, unless you plan to use the cab only at very low volumes.

 

[PJFlatts]

Bought one of the cabinets from Parts Express - outside dimensions are the same (16"H x 12"W x 14.25"D) but port shelf is shorter. Original spec for port (and what is still advertised on PE site) was 10.75"W x 1 15/16"H x 10.24"D. The port in the box I received is same width (10.75") and height (1 15/16") but depth is 9.5".

Can anyone tell me how this will affect the box's tuning? Should I add 3/4" to the shelf to bring it to a 10.25" depth or is the 9.5" depth OK?

I'm planning on reducing port width by 4" using the box described in the OP.

Box is advertised as approx. 1.1 cubic feet.
Cheers

 

[DukeLeJeune]

Bought one of the cabinets from Parts Express - outside dimensions are the same (16"H x 12"W x 14.25"D) but port shelf is shorter. Original spec for port (and what is still advertised on PE site) was 10.75"W x 1 15/16"H x 10.24"D. The port in the box I received is same width (10.75") and height (1 15/16") but depth is 9.5".

Can anyone tell me how this will affect the box's tuning? Should I add 3/4" to the shelf to bring it to a 10.25" depth or is the 9.5" depth OK?

I'm planning on reducing port width by 4" using the box described in the OP.

Box is advertised as approx. 1.1 cubic feet.
Cheers

I was counting the .75" thickness of the front baffle as part of the port length, so if you were not, maybe the port length hasn't changed?

It would probably be easier to reduce the port width with an insert than to increase the port depth. The port cross-sectional area is more than enough for this application, so reducing the port width doesn't really trade off anything.

 

[PJFlatts]

Thanks for the reply, Duke. The full depth of the port shelf on the cabinet I got from PE a couple of days ago is 9.5" from front outside of cab to end of shelf inside cab; on the used DIY 10 I bought here on TB, the measurement is 10.25".

Measurement is made by inserting a carpenter's tape measure into the port, latching onto the end of the shelf, and reading length at front, outside of cab. I do carpentry; I know to measure a board

Want I don't know is the port cross sectional area I want given the shorter shelf. The box that goes in the port to reduce area was recommended as 4" wide in original post. Stay with 4" width? Go bigger? Advice welcome! Thanks.

 

[DukeLeJeune]

Thanks for the reply, Duke. The full depth of the port shelf on the cabinet I got from PE a couple of days ago is 9.5" from front outside of cab to end of shelf inside cab; on the used DIY 10 I bought here on TB, the measurement is 10.25".

Measurement is made by inserting a carpenter's tape measure into the port, latching onto the end of the shelf, and reading length at front, outside of cab. I do carpentry; I know to measure a board

Want I don't know is the port cross sectional area I want given the shorter shelf. The box that goes in the port to reduce area was recommended as 4" wide in original post. Stay with 4" width? Go bigger? Advice welcome! Thanks.

Ha! Obviously you DO know how to measure a board! You are far more of a professional woodworker than I will ever be!!

If you increase the insert-box width to 4.5", you'll be at the same tuning as the original suggestion (to within about .5 Hz).

 

[PJFlatts]

Cheers! Exactly what I needed. Thanks very much.

 

[stonebass4ever]

Hi, I would like to build this cab for home practice, but I am based in the UK, and although I can buy the S2010 over here, it looks like my only option to get a Goldwood E-10SP cabinet is to order one from Parts Express from the US, which would cost $85 in shipping only, so $116 in total + likely custom duties on top, which kind of defeats the initial 'cheap' purpose of the whole thing. I'm considering building the cab myself in wood, and I saw that some people mentioned they did it. It was also mentioned that wood is even better than the material the E-10SP is made of, and as I am OK with wood work I would prefer that. Also because I don't like the fur, so that would avoid me the de-furring nightmare and I could just paint it straight away! I would like to do it as some of the pics posted over the thread, finished in black cabinet paint, black corner protectors and a handle on top. The only issue for me is that I am not too sure how to go about the design, especially internally. For example I can see that the E-10SP has an opening at the bottom of the front panel and I am not sure if that is just a simple external opening or if the construction of the MDF parts on the inside is more complex than that.
I have tried to read through most of the thread but it gets often very technical and I get lost in that! I also tried to run searches in the thread for specific information about building the cab but to no avail.
Can anyone please offer any help on the points I am struggling about?
- what type of wood to buy?
- internal wood construction (anything to keep in mind or is it just a straight box with one opening at the front bottom - plus the round opening for the speaker of course?). Are there any assembly diagrams available for similar boxes?
- dimensions of the wood panels? Should I just go roughly as the dimensions listed on the specs for the E-10SP?
- Glue, screw or nail the panels together?
- Anyone from the UK, do you know of any suitable alternatives to the E-10SP available over here?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Sanj]

Ha! Obviously you DO know how to measure a board! You are far more of a professional woodworker than I will ever be!!

If you increase the insert-box width to 4.5", you'll be at the same tuning as the original suggestion (to within about .5 Hz).

The cabinet I received the other day measured the same. Just out of curiosity (and because I know nothing about the subject!), with a shelf-ported box like this, what constitutes cabinet volume? Everything above the shelf plus the area behind it down to the bottom? Or ???

Thanks so much for offering this to the community!

 

[alaskaleftybass]

Hi, I would like to build this cab for home practice, but I am based in the UK, and although I can buy the S2010 over here, it looks like my only option to get a Goldwood E-10SP cabinet is to order one from Parts Express from the US, which would cost $85 in shipping only, so $116 in total + likely custom duties on top, which kind of defeats the initial 'cheap' purpose of the whole thing. I'm considering building the cab myself in wood, and I saw that some people mentioned they did it. It was also mentioned that wood is even better than the material the E-10SP is made of, and as I am OK with wood work I would prefer that. Also because I don't like the fur, so that would avoid me the de-furring nightmare and I could just paint it straight away! I would like to do it as some of the pics posted over the thread, finished in black cabinet paint, black corner protectors and a handle on top. The only issue for me is that I am not too sure how to go about the design, especially internally. For example I can see that the E-10SP has an opening at the bottom of the front panel and I am not sure if that is just a simple external opening or if the construction of the MDF parts on the inside is more complex than that.
I have tried to read through most of the thread but it gets often very technical and I get lost in that! I also tried to run searches in the thread for specific information about building the cab but to no avail.
Can anyone please offer any help on the points I am struggling about?
- what type of wood to buy?
- internal wood construction (anything to keep in mind or is it just a straight box with one opening at the front bottom - plus the round opening for the speaker of course?). Are there any assembly diagrams available for similar boxes?
- dimensions of the wood panels? Should I just go roughly as the dimensions listed on the specs for the E-10SP?
- Glue, screw or nail the panels together?
- Anyone from the UK, do you know of any suitable alternatives to the E-10SP available over here?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

I thought the same thing a while back when I was looking for a small cab. And using a 5/8" lightweight ply instead of 3/4."

Maybe some kind soul will post the cabinet dimensions for you. Good luck!

 

[old spice]

Hi, I would like to build this cab for home practice, but I am based in the UK, and although I can buy the S2010 over here, it looks like my only option to get a Goldwood E-10SP cabinet is to order one from Parts Express from the US, which would cost $85 in shipping only, so $116 in total + likely custom duties on top, which kind of defeats the initial 'cheap' purpose of the whole thing. I'm considering building the cab myself in wood, and I saw that some people mentioned they did it. It was also mentioned that wood is even better than the material the E-10SP is made of, and as I am OK with wood work I would prefer that. Also because I don't like the fur, so that would avoid me the de-furring nightmare and I could just paint it straight away! I would like to do it as some of the pics posted over the thread, finished in black cabinet paint, black corner protectors and a handle on top. The only issue for me is that I am not too sure how to go about the design, especially internally. For example I can see that the E-10SP has an opening at the bottom of the front panel and I am not sure if that is just a simple external opening or if the construction of the MDF parts on the inside is more complex than that.
I have tried to read through most of the thread but it gets often very technical and I get lost in that! I also tried to run searches in the thread for specific information about building the cab but to no avail.
Can anyone please offer any help on the points I am struggling about?
- what type of wood to buy?
- internal wood construction (anything to keep in mind or is it just a straight box with one opening at the front bottom - plus the round opening for the speaker of course?). Are there any assembly diagrams available for similar boxes?
- dimensions of the wood panels? Should I just go roughly as the dimensions listed on the specs for the E-10SP?
- Glue, screw or nail the panels together?
- Anyone from the UK, do you know of any suitable alternatives to the E-10SP available over here?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Here are the dimensions of an old one I have:
all parts 1/2 inch MDF
(and they’re glued together)
16 1/2 inches tall
12 1/4 inches wide
14 1/2 inches deep
circular hole 9 1/4 inches diameter
the circle’s edge is 2 1/2 inches from the top
the port (that opening at the bottom you noticed) is 2 inches high
and a ledge extends 10 inches inside the box from the port opening to make the “horn.”
I’m sorry that I have no advice on making it out of plywood, but I know it would be lighter than this one.
Good luck.

 

[alaskaleftybass]

Here are the dimensions of an old one I have:
all parts 1/2 inch MDFBless your kind soul!
(and they’re glued together)
16 1/2 inches tall
12 1/4 inches wide
14 1/2 inches deep
circular hole 9 1/4 inches diameter
the circle’s edge is 2 1/2 inches from the top
the port (that opening at the bottom you noticed) is 2 inches high
and a ledge extends 10 inches into the box from the port opening to make the “horn.”
I’m sorry that I have no advice on making it out of plywood, but I know it would be lighter than this one.
Good luck.

Bless your kind soul!

 

[LennyJ]

I Posted the Dims that I built on post #875 a few pages back.

 

[alaskaleftybass]

I Posted the Dims that I built on post #875 a few pages back.

Thank you kind sir. As I get older my memory gets shorter!