Yours looks great, whocaresnotme. I see you blocked the port; did you try it w/the port open first? If so, what would you say changed in the sound after blocking? I dig the grill; looks classy. I also dig your "amp stand." 
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Low-cost DIY practice/coffeehouse tweeterless 110 [long]
- Thread starter DukeLeJeune
- Start date
Yours looks great, whocaresnotme. I see you blocked the port; did you try it w/the port open first? If so, what would you say changed in the sound after blocking? I dig the grill; looks classy. I also dig your "amp stand."
I did try it without the "block". A bit "farty" off the B string but not much and it seemed to get more focused after I "blocked" it. I'm going to build another one so I can have a "micro/mini me stack".
I kind of missed a tweeter at first but now I don't. Sounds great without one.
Yeah, the "amp stand" is a "custom" job. ( LOL....)
Not sure if Duke is still watching this, built my cab and no matter what I do she sounds a bit distorted and "farty". Any way to diagnose and try and see what is causing it? I've pulled the speaker to check connections, loose screws, etc and so far not coming up woth anything
- Nov 24, 2008
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You may have run up against the excursion limitations of the driver.
Blocking off some of the port area to lower the tuning frequency may help. But even then it's not really well-suited for low B.
I used my TB110 exclusively for 6 weeks for bedroom practice while my gear was in transit. It's a great little cab. If the cab is farty, you've either run up against the excursion limits (as Duke said), which is either over-powering it or trying to play below the tuning frequency or you have an air leak. Is your jack plate screwed down tightly? I silconed mine in from inside the cab. That's an extreme measure though. Assuming its' screwed down properly, the carpet on the cab serves nicely as a gasket.
It's a 4-string so it's not the B, and it sounds that way even at low volume. Wonder if the speaker is blown? Although I never used at high volumes
- Nov 24, 2008
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- Owner & designer, AudioKinesis; Auth. mfg, Big E (Home Audio only)
Hmmm, that does sound like something's wrong with the speaker. Maybe the voice coil's rest position isn't centered in the gap, so it exhibits premature fartout. That would be a manufacturing defect, but I don't think anyone other than the factory could reliably diagnose it.
I suggest describing the problem to whoever you bought it from, to see what they say (they may be more experienced than me).
Also, here's a link to Eminence's warranty page:
Genuine Eminence products are backed by an industry leading 7-year warranty | Eminence Speaker
I plugged the numbers for the driver and the Parts Express box into WinISD Pro. I assumed a net cabinet volume of 1622 in^3 after subtracting the speaker and port displaced volumes.
With the full width port (pic), it looks like there is a cone excursion problem at 40 Hz and full power (150 watts). X goes to 10.6 mm, which is over the mechanical excursion limit Xlim of 8mm, and way over the Xmax of 4mm. You'd have to cut the power about in half to keep from hitting Xlim and down to around 20W to stay under Xmax.
With the reduced width port, the situation is better. You still go over Xmax at 40Hz, but it doesn't hit Xlim.
I don't believe WinISD can give absolute numbers, but it seems pretty clear in this case that if you want to build this cab (great idea, btw) reducing the port width is a good idea, unless you plan to use the cab only at very low volumes.
With the full width port (pic), it looks like there is a cone excursion problem at 40 Hz and full power (150 watts). X goes to 10.6 mm, which is over the mechanical excursion limit Xlim of 8mm, and way over the Xmax of 4mm. You'd have to cut the power about in half to keep from hitting Xlim and down to around 20W to stay under Xmax.
With the reduced width port, the situation is better. You still go over Xmax at 40Hz, but it doesn't hit Xlim.
I don't believe WinISD can give absolute numbers, but it seems pretty clear in this case that if you want to build this cab (great idea, btw) reducing the port width is a good idea, unless you plan to use the cab only at very low volumes.
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The technical aspects of the above are way beyond my level of expertise, but what I take away from it mirrors my situation. I use a GK MB 200 head (140 watts at 8 ohms), and the problem is most noticeable on the open E string. I will try the port reduction approach and see what happens.
Thanks for the information!
Anybody buy the parts for these and not end up building it? I'm looking for some more S2010s and maybe the boxes so I can build some more TB110s.
Thanks,
MX
Thanks,
MX
I picked up a used S2010 recently and wanted to build another TB110 to pair with the first one I did. I went to Parts Express to see about getting the sub cabinet, and it has now increased in price to $31.50. Plus shipping would cost another $27. For $58.50, I figure I can build my own box.
So I measured my original box and duplicated it in 1/2" birch plywood. Finished in Duratex and has dual speakon/1/4" combo jacks. Sounds great!
Edit: forgot to mention it's all rabbit and dado construction, glued and caulked, damped with batting.
So here is the TB110-MX. Second pic is the new one with duratex/birch ply sitting on top of the original carpet/MDF version.
So I measured my original box and duplicated it in 1/2" birch plywood. Finished in Duratex and has dual speakon/1/4" combo jacks. Sounds great!
Edit: forgot to mention it's all rabbit and dado construction, glued and caulked, damped with batting.
So here is the TB110-MX. Second pic is the new one with duratex/birch ply sitting on top of the original carpet/MDF version.
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Cool. OK, I'll ask... Going from MDF to birch, I assume you lost a little weight. How much, and do you notice any other differences?
1n3 said:
I don't know. My wife threw the scale away. She claims it's broken, but maybe she just didn't like what it said.
Hard to tell if it's lighter. I added rubber feet and batting, so that may make up some of the difference. I'll have to take it into fedex or somewhere like that to weigh it.
billfitzmaurice
Commercial User
- Sep 15, 2004
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Maybe, maybe not. I haven't run the numbers myself, you'll have to do that. But what matters isn't excursion, it's maximum SPL, which is seen on the Maximum SPL chart. If in the process of reducing excursion by changing the tuning or any other factor you also change sensitivity and response you might end up worse off rather than better. Whether or not the driver can reach xmax or xlim before toasting the coil is moot, that's the case with 99% of the drivers out there anyway. What matters is getting all that the driver is capable of giving. And as for excursion and maximum SPL at 40Hz, that matters far less than than at 50 to 60Hz, where most of the power bandwidth of electric bass lies.
Now that I've got a tablesaw (finally!) I'm thinking about redoing this little cab in 1/2" birch as well. Possibly changing the port a little bit for a little more extension, too. I never got any damping in my cab. Didn't have any on hand at the time and just went with the cab empty. Being that I"ve got to open it up anyway, might as well rebuild it completely and have it about 3 pounds lighter...if not more.
