Medium scale middle of the road flats?

[Sir Toby]

I figured the Dunlops would be perfect. Turns out they are 30% more expensive than TI's!!! They might be worth it though

 

[michael_t]

I figured the Dunlops would be perfect. Turns out they are 30% more expensive than TI's!!! They might be worth it though

I take it you're on the European side of the Pond?

 

[bassdude51]

TIs (or Chromes)

(Probably already mentioned.)

 

[overit]

I need a woody organic sound that is warm but not boomy or dull.

If the bass sounds anything like my Epi EB-0 with the neck pickup soloed, you may wanna reconsider going with flats. I've been tempted to put flats on it cause it just seems right but it sounds great with whatever rounds are on there right now. I play reggae and all my basses have flats for the genre but the bass is already warm and wooly. This thread also helped me save me from spending for no reason: EB-0 suggestions. YMMV

 

[Boneless]

Anyway, I think that Pyramids with a lighter E (and maybe a slightly lighter A as well) could be very good indeed, but you'll have to make your own set. Like, say, .45, .65, .80, .95. I don't think it would give tension issues anyway. I think there are places (at least in Europe) that sell the individual strings.

 

[michael_t]

Anyway, I think that Pyramids with a lighter E (and maybe a slightly lighter A as well) could be very good indeed, but you'll have to make your own set. Like, say, .45, .65, .80, .95...

This is why GHS Precision Flats may be a viable option for the OP as the factory "medium scale" set is 45-60-75-95.

I've tried the same gauges in long scale on my P bass in the past, and while they may not be the best balanced set in terms of tension numbers, they did sound nicely balanced in terms of tone.

 

[Sir Toby]

I take it you're on the European side of the Pond?

Yes indeed. Sweden. So Thomann is the first place I look but I think I went through most of the online places and the medium chromes, TI jf324 and Pyramid Gold are available. GHS and roto 77 one place. Dunlop and Optima nowhere.

 

[michael_t]

Yes indeed. Sweden. So Thomann is the first place I look...

What you might want to do is to fill in the box for "location" as part of your personal details on your profile page. That way people will know where you're located and be able to make recommendations accordingly.

 

[Sir Toby]

If the bass sounds anything like my Epi EB-0 with the neck pickup soloed, you may wanna reconsider going with flats. I've been tempted to put flats on it cause it just seems right but it sounds great with whatever rounds are on there right now. I play reggae and all my basses have flats for the genre but the bass is already warm and wooly. This thread also helped me save me from spending for no reason: EB-0 suggestions. YMMV

Wise words! I just love the feel and sound of flats but just wanted a little more brightness, clarity and midrange than the darkest of the flats. But I don't want to try turning the bass into something it doesn't want to. The bass speaks and I try to listen and guide it. Like parenting

 

[Sir Toby]

Anyway, I think that Pyramids with a lighter E (and maybe a slightly lighter A as well) could be very good indeed, but you'll have to make your own set. Like, say, .45, .65, .80, .95. I don't think it would give tension issues anyway. I think there are places (at least in Europe) that sell the individual strings.

I also think it could be kind of great. But it is a little more hassle compared to getting a set that is balanced right away (after break in period...)

 

[leonard]

Chromes start bright but get darker eventually. That's when they get to be middle-of-the-roadish. Maybe the initial brightness gives them the reputation of being "scooped".

 

[Bassamatic]

Get the T.I.s. They are long enough to be used on short and medium scale and sound incredible with tons of definition and a solid bottom.

I have tried Chromes 2-3 x on different basses with the same result- a midrange bump that makes them sound "honky".

 

[C130AVN]

I need a woody organic sound that is warm but not boomy or dull.

Any recommendations or input as to wether I am way off in my thinking are welcome.

Thank you!

Why not try a set of Tape wounds... I use them on a fretless Warmoth build with a MM J config. Top end very mellow BUT the midrange is alive and vibrant; the bottom end is tight and punchy. Light under the fingers and super slick

 

[coy garcia]

I have chromes mediums on my brand new 30.5 scale... I love them, they are tight even if I detune a 1/2 step. Thing about chromes is you need about 12-15 hrs of woodshed to mellow out the brightness/midrange then they are good for another 20yrs.

 

[jpbicknell]

LaBella LTF in medium scale... perfect winding length for through-body 30"ers. There is a presence, a boom, and a rubbery sound to them

 

[2F/2F]

You said you're trying to avoid "mid scoop." But classic flats are not mid scooped. They're VERY mid heavy. Modern style flats like the Dunlops are what's mid scooped.

I would go with Rotosound 77s, RS77M, to start. They are a pretty "neutral" e.q. string, being able to move from old school to middy to clangy with no trouble at all. The packaging says "warm" on it, but I disagree that that's their default tone. They're pretty neutral when flat, and plenty metallic when you want it.

 

[HaphAsSard]

Not a fan of the Rotosound Jazz 77 low E from the short- and medium-scale sets: very low-tension but very stiff at the same time; as a result, it has a very jumpy pitch upon the attack. I found its tone warmer than what I've always heard the long-scale version can do, but not bad per se (except I killed it dead in a year or so).

 

[2F/2F]

Not a fan of the Rotosound Jazz 77 low E from the short- and medium-scale sets: very low-tension but very stiff at the same time; as a result, it has a very jumpy pitch upon the attack. I found its tone warmer than what I've always heard the long-scale version can do, but not bad per se (except I killed it dead in a year or so).

FWIW, I use RS 77 50–110s, full scale, on my Musicmaster Bass (30"scale). 0.110" is about the thickest flatwound low E on the market, and the Musicmaster Bass's tuner posts are significantly narrower than standard Fender tuner posts. Point being, you need not limit yourself to the medium scale set. Under the most extreme conditions that I mentioned, the strings stay together just fine IME. Have had the same set on that bass for 10 years now. No breakage, no dead strings, no intonation issues. They sound better than ever and show no notable signs of wear.

 

[Monkey]

Why not try a set of Tape wounds... I use them on a fretless Warmoth build with a MM J config. Top end very mellow BUT the midrange is alive and vibrant; the bottom end is tight and punchy. Light under the fingers and super slick

This was my first thought, too. I used D'Addario tapes on my 32"-scale fretless and they sounded great. Good bottom end and punch while retaining definition. I recently went back to my first love, TI Jazz Flats, on that bass, but was happy with the way tapes sounded live.

 

[Sir Toby]

This was my first thought, too. I used D'Addario tapes on my 32"-scale fretless and they sounded great. Good bottom end and punch while retaining definition. I recently went back to my first love, TI Jazz Flats, on that bass, would was happy with the way tapes sounded live.

Didn't even think of tapewounds. Have never tried them. Cool suggestion!