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Mesa Boogie Walkabout Mega-thread 8

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I've used mine with WA head & ae212, WA head-AE212 & AE112, WA Scout 12(8 ohm) & AE112.
& separate versions I.e. WA head & either AE cab.
Works well either way.
I'd grab a 4 ohm Berg 212 (or 8 ohm other make I s'pose) - that way u can use the single Scout 12", the 212 by itself, or both-at 2.67 ohms.
I found the Scout cab paired pretty well with a single AE112 too.
The pretty aggressive AE wooly Scout matched ok for me. Hope it was ok in the room:o
Most times DI'd tho:p

yeah, thanks Rodl2005, that's exactly the confirmation I was looking for. Now I just have to decide between a 1x12 or the 2x12. Used 1x12's definitely seem to be easier to find.

I only get FOH support about 1/2 the time, so solid gig volume is a bit of a tricky balancing act at times. When I do get it, the WA 12 by itself is fine, but when I don't is where I am struggling.

I also just saw that a shop (somewhat) nearby has a used NV215 for sale, so that could be an option too (but kind of a big one).

I am totally familiar with running the WA @ 2ohms. My 2 Mesa cabs are 4 ohms apiece, and I have been running them hard @ 2ohms for years. The issue there is that my ears are telling me that the Scout/WA cabs are not terribly sensitive, and that the WA, while it will run fine at 2ohms, seems to get too squishy for my taste when pushed into 2 ohms. So, I'm thinking that an 4 ohm 212 cab with higher sensitivity numbers and a tighter low end (like the Bergs) will get a bit more out of the WA.

I guess I'll find out.

Thanks for the replies
 
yeah, thanks Rodl2005, that's exactly the confirmation I was looking for. Now I just have to decide between a 1x12 or the 2x12. Used 1x12's definitely seem to be easier to find.

I only get FOH support about 1/2 the time, so solid gig volume is a bit of a tricky balancing act at times. When I do get it, the WA 12 by itself is fine, but when I don't is where I am struggling.

I also just saw that a shop (somewhat) nearby has a used NV215 for sale, so that could be an option too (but kind of a big one).

I am totally familiar with running the WA @ 2ohms. My 2 Mesa cabs are 4 ohms apiece, and I have been running them hard @ 2ohms for years. The issue there is that my ears are telling me that the Scout/WA cabs are not terribly sensitive, and that the WA, while it will run fine at 2ohms, seems to get too squishy for my taste when pushed into 2 ohms. So, I'm thinking that an 4 ohm 212 cab with higher sensitivity numbers and a tighter low end (like the Bergs) will get a bit more out of the WA.

I guess I'll find out.

Thanks for the replies

If you can grab that NV and don't mind the haul, I'd definitely go for it. I play my WA through a NV412 and it is thunderous - only thing that could make me get rid of it might be a NV215 in good condition. Can't tell you how many compliments I get on that rig from the band and sound guys. And it has proven to be plenty loud, too - even in a (classic) rock setting with a hard hitting drummer. I'll probably get the HD212 also just for times I don't feel like hauling the NV. Berg cabs rule!
 
for those who have used WA 12 + Scout 12 rigs, does a WA + AE212 rig deliver more actual or perceived volume ?
I'm thinking that the higher 103db sensitivity of the AE, plus the driver coupling effect in a single cab would make the WA + AE212 rig louder. At least a more efficient use of the WA's 300w.
 
I've used a second WA 12" cab rather than the Scout extension, but the AE212 is both louder and is more articulate in the mix.

I happen to like the sound of the Walkabout 12" cab, operated within its SPL limits. But it only took one gig where the stage volume required was not quite within those limits for me to (ahem!) scout for other cabinet options. In terms of getting volume out of a fairly compact and light cab, the AE212 is the best match I've found yet with the Walkabout head, even louder than my Schroeder 21012L.
 
I've used a second WA 12" cab rather than the Scout extension, but the AE212 is both louder and is more articulate in the mix.

I happen to like the sound of the Walkabout 12" cab, operated within its SPL limits. But it only took one gig where the stage volume required was not quite within those limits for me to (ahem!) scout for other cabinet options. In terms of getting volume out of a fairly compact and light cab, the AE212 is the best match I've found yet with the Walkabout head, even louder than my Schroeder 21012L.

Key point above. I really like the sound of the WA 12 combo too, but in the past year or so, I have got a number of gigs that do push the Mesa cabs beyond their comfort zone. In these situations, I am also pushing my WA at 2ohms, and as I have said, I feel like it adds undesirable sag to the already big/warm sounding WA amp.
 
Hello,

So I've come across a Mesa M Pulse Walkabout for sale, I believe this is the old discontinued version which has a passive and active input jack, and 300 watts version. I was told there is a grounding issue with the effects loop. Is this a common design flaw with these heads? It was suggested to keep a short 6" cable in the send and return jacks to adjust the problem. Any input? Thanks!
 
All Walkabouts are 300 watts.
Earlier models have two 1/4" inputs, one for passive, one for active, and, no fx bypass switch.
Later models have an active/passive toggle, and an fx bypass switch.
These changes were made to address 1/4" jacks that oxidized over time, and had problems passing signal.
the 6" cable to bridge the fx loop is one solution to this.

Earlier models can be brought up to later model spec by any Mesa Authorized Service Center.

I never use the "active" setting, even with my hottest active basses. It's a giant tone suck, IMO.
 
Hello,

So I've come across a Mesa M Pulse Walkabout for sale, I believe this is the old discontinued version which has a passive and active input jack, and 300 watts version. I was told there is a grounding issue with the effects loop. Is this a common design flaw with these heads? It was suggested to keep a short 6" cable in the send and return jacks to adjust the problem. Any input? Thanks!

I see Chef, who is way more knowledgable than I am, beat me to the...errr...post.

Mine has the new switch on the back to bypass the effects loop. I've read in this thread that you can keep that cable in there, or use the cable end to go in and out of each effects jack several times to clean it. Apparently, that's the real issue, sllight corrosion buildup. Others may be more knowledgable on this. The only difference other than the effects switch is the active/passive switch. Otherwise, yours is the same as all of them. Good luck with it; you'll love it.
 
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