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Mesa Boogie Walkabout Mega-thread Part 10

Nah......What should I do with my walkabout now ..

There will still be a strong following for the original because it is a unique amp. In fact there may be even be a renewed interest in it.

@agedhorse Is it "safer" to run a 500 watt 4 ohm cab with the WD-800 in 2 ohm mode as I believe (maybe incorrectly... that's why I'm asking) the D-800 and D-800+ are?

That's what I would recommend.

Congratulations to Mesa and all who were involved in the development of the WD800, I love my WA but this takes it to another level. The timing of the announcement of this new amp hit me right at the very moment a D800+ arrived at my doorstep, it’s all good I’m really liking it but a WD is certainly a future thing for me!!!

Puts you in a great position to compare the two amps, right? The WD-800 is a different flavor than the D-800+, I would suggest trying it before thinking the WD-800 might be "better" for you. Possibly, but certainly not definitely.
 
There will still be a strong following for the original because it is a unique amp. In fact there may be even be a renewed interest in it.



That's what I would recommend.



Puts you in a great position to compare the two amps, right? The WD-800 is a different flavor than the D-800+, I would suggest trying it before thinking the WD-800 might be "better" for you. Possibly, but certainly not definitely.
Yes Sir!! Hopefully a different video demo will be posted soon also. .
 
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C226CA80-A2EE-4B47-83D5-132455C7F99C.jpeg
Gotta bring back the head case too! Why? Because they look so cool in one!
 
May I ask why...? My Ampeg SVT 210AV is a 600-watt 4-ohm cab, so should I do the same?
IIRC, using the 2-ohm switch setting when connected to an 8 or 4 ohm load is supposed to give something like a 20% or 25% power reduction (which should make it easier to take advantage of the power-amp overdrive feature).
So, if you are worried about thermal or mechanical damage based on the cab wattage rating, this 2-ohm setting should reduce that chance, I guess.
 
IIRC, using the 2-ohm switch setting when connected to an 8 or 4 ohm load is supposed to give something like a 20% or 25% power reduction (which should make it easier to take advantage of the power-amp overdrive feature).
So, if you are worried about thermal or mechanical damage based on the cab wattage rating, this 2-ohm setting should reduce that chance, I guess.

Okay, gotcha -- thank you. Having never owned a Class D amp with a switch like that, I'm used to mine putting out less power when plugged into a higher impedance cab, not the other way around.
 
Okay, gotcha -- thank you. Having never owned a Class D amp with a switch like that, I'm used to mine putting out less power when plugged into a higher impedance cab, not the other way around.
It still works that way.
I will probably get these numbers wrong, but if you leave it always on the 2 ohm switch setting it is supposed to output something like 300W@8, 600@4, and 800@2.
The only difference is a reduced output vs the 400@8 and 800@4 using the 4/8 switch setting.

I'm sure you got that. Just wanted to clarify since my first response might not have hit it right.
 
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It still works that way.
I will probably get these numbers wrong, but if you leave it always on the 2 ohm switch setting it is supposed to output something like 300W@8, 600@4, and 800@2.
The only difference is a reduced output vs the 400@8 and 800@4 using the 4/8 switch setting.

I'm sure you got that. Just wanted to clarify since my first response might not have hit it right.

Okay, gotcha. So if you set the switch to 4/8, it will put out the full 800 watts at either of those impedances?
 
May I ask why...? My Ampeg SVT 210AV is a 600-watt 4-ohm cab, so should I do the same?

My experience is that I haven't seen any commercial 210 cabinet (including the Subway 210) that is really safe long term driven with 800 watts RMS.

In your case, there is an added issue of your cabinet's power handling being described using different units (program or peak rather than RMS as the amp is rated). Your speaker cabinet appears to be rated at 200 watts RMS based on the manufacturer's documentation (this is for the 8 ohm version, I would not expect any difference with the 4 ohm version). I would hate to see you damage your otherwise good cabinet.

SVT 210AV TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Impedance 8 ohms Power Rating 200 W RMS
Cabinet Construction Birch plywood
Speaker Specs Eminence Speakers 2 x 10"
Inputs 2 x 1/4" parallel jacks
Size (H x W x D) 25.2 in/640 mm (including feet and handle) x 13.0 in/330 mm x 11.0 in/280 mm
Weight 26.3 lb/11.9 kg

IIRC, using the 2-ohm switch setting when connected to an 8 or 4 ohm load is supposed to give something like a 20% or 25% power reduction (which should make it easier to take advantage of the power-amp overdrive feature).
So, if you are worried about thermal or mechanical damage based on the cab wattage rating, this 2-ohm setting should reduce that chance, I guess.

Correct, though even 600 watts RMS into this cabinet is not a good idea IMO. Too much chance for damage even being careful.
 
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My experience is that I haven't seen any commercial 210 cabinet (including the Subway 210) that is really safe long term driven with 800 watts RMS.

In your case, there is an added issue of your cabinet's power handling being described using different units (program or peak rather than RMS as the amp is rated). Your speaker cabinet appears to be rated at 200 watts RMS based on the manufacturer's documentation (this is for the 8 ohm version, I would not expect any difference with the 4 ohm version). I would hate to see you damage your otherwise good cabinet.

SVT 210AV TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Impedance 8 ohms Power Rating 200 W RMS
Cabinet Construction Birch plywood
Speaker Specs Eminence Speakers 2 x 10"
Inputs 2 x 1/4" parallel jacks
Size (H x W x D) 25.2 in/640 mm (including feet and handle) x 13.0 in/330 mm x 11.0 in/280 mm
Weight 26.3 lb/11.9 kg



Correct, though even 600 watts RMS into this cabinet is not a good idea IMO. Too much chance for damage even being careful.


Thanks for putting so much time into educating.

I was just about to reply to that too. Good effing luck putting a legit 600w of BASS into one of those little AV210 cabs.

Was shocked that Ampeg would be rating them at that ridiculous 600w figure, but it turns out the OP was confused on what units to use. Cool.

The 2 Ohm switch is essentially a throttle (fair term to use?) to prevent the amp from overheating per only a 2 Ohm load. And it's not something specific to Class D. Correct?
 
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Thanks for putting so much time into educating.

I was just about to reply to that too. Good effing luck putting a legit 600w of BASS into one of those little AV210 cabs.

Was shocked that Ampeg would be rating them at that ridiculous 600w figure, but it turns out the OP was confused on what units to use. Cool.

The 2 Ohm switch is essentially a throttle (fair term to use?) to prevent the amp from overheating per only a 2 Ohm load. And it's not something specific to Class D. Correct?

Kinda-sorta, pretty close. In engine terms, the 2 ohm switch is more like a rev limiter or restrictor plate on the intake. It's purpose is for both thermal and current management to prevent adverse skew of some critical protection threshold curves.

If so, a smaller & lighter headcase would be appreciated.

The original is quite heavy, and large. A bit too robust, as most people are really just going for a particular look. Looks terrible overhanging cabs of lesser width too.

Interesting thought, I will bring this up to the marketing guys. I understand exactly where you are coming from. Thank you.
 
My experience is that I haven't seen any commercial 210 cabinet (including the Subway 210) that is really safe long term driven with 800 watts RMS.

In your case, there is an added issue of your cabinet's power handling being described using different units (program or peak rather than RMS as the amp is rated). Your speaker cabinet appears to be rated at 200 watts RMS based on the manufacturer's documentation (this is for the 8 ohm version, I would not expect any difference with the 4 ohm version). I would hate to see you damage your otherwise good cabinet.

SVT 210AV TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Impedance 8 ohms Power Rating 200 W RMS
Cabinet Construction Birch plywood
Speaker Specs Eminence Speakers 2 x 10"
Inputs 2 x 1/4" parallel jacks
Size (H x W x D) 25.2 in/640 mm (including feet and handle) x 13.0 in/330 mm x 11.0 in/280 mm
Weight 26.3 lb/11.9 kg



Correct, though even 600 watts RMS into this cabinet is not a good idea IMO. Too much chance for damage even being careful.

I'm sorry, I was typing quickly and gave you the wrong model; this is the cabinet I have: https://ampeg.com/products/classic/svt212av/


specifications.gif

RMS Power Handling: 600 Watts
Frequency Response (-3dB): 71 Hz -18 kHz
Usable Low Frequency (-10 dB): 40 Hz
Nominal Impedance: 4 Ohms
Sensitivity: 99 dB
Maximum SPL: 127 dB
Dimensions (W x H x D inches): 24 x 25 x 16
Weight: 66 Pounds
 
Thanks for putting so much time into educating.

I was just about to reply to that too. Good effing luck putting a legit 600w of BASS into one of those little AV210 cabs.

Was shocked that Ampeg would be rating them at that ridiculous 600w figure, but it turns out the OP was confused on what units to use. Cool.

The 2 Ohm switch is essentially a throttle (fair term to use?) to prevent the amp from overheating per only a 2 Ohm load. And it's not something specific to Class D. Correct?

I have the 212 AV; I typed a "0" instead of a "2." Big difference, and my bad.