I only use two 4x10s and 1400 solid-state watts for stoner/doom/sludge. Clearly my hole is inferior.
wanna look at each others holes?
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I only use two 4x10s and 1400 solid-state watts for stoner/doom/sludge. Clearly my hole is inferior.
i mean i play 2 4x15 cabs and 2 6x12 cabs at the same time with two big tube heads.
how dark does that make my hole?
And you play quieter than someone rocking a combo amp.
Truth.
DAMN YOU AND YOUR VOLUME HATE!
you know i should have let you just turn up my rig at my moms that day and let you destroy the house, i wouldnt have had to put up with countless volume jokes over the last year.
TRUTH!
i mean i play 2 4x15 cabs and 2 6x12 cabs at the same time with two big tube heads.
how dark does that make my hole?
i mean i play 2 4x15 cabs and 2 6x12 cabs at the same time with two big tube heads.
how dark does that make my hole?
Heh, last night I had another sub gig with the party rock guys. I took 115 and 210 instead of 2x15. Guitars are direct and drums was kick only with his own subwoofer. The lead guitar player could hear me clearly, when the 2x15 had been all lows for him last time. I prefer the tone of the JBL's, dangit, dispersion rules.All my favorite sounding rigs have had mismatched cabinets (usually a 2x10 and a 1x15 or 1x18). They just always seem to have the most punch and weight behind the notes you play. Matched cabs always sound too pleasant and two-dimensional to my ear.
To summarize the above posts and hopefully clarify, there is no benefit to crossing-over similar full range cabinets. Driver size alone means nothing. All you would be doing there is forcing one cab to handle ALL the low end, and remove frequencies the other cab could easily reproduce, hence resulting in a very inefficient system.
Think about this more in a 'PA' sense... the different drivers/boxes in a large front of house system use optimally tuned cabinets and driver sizes to maximize both the efficiency of the system (i.e., larger drivers can, in most cases, more efficiently produce low end... i.e., you need less of them to obtain high SPL than smaller drivers), and (this is key) to maximize dispersion (the frequencies from the upper midrange on up tend to beam a bit when reproduced by larger cones (i.e., they come out very directionally from a larger driver). The confusion arises with a 15" driver in a bass cab. The typical 15" driver is much more similar in frequency response to the typical 10" driver designed for bass guitar backline than a true sub-woofer spec'd 15" driver with massive low end capability. Again, driver size alone makes little difference.
So, it makes quite a bit of sense to get a large, relatively efficient driver for the low end, and then the smallest driver you can get for the top end of the tone of a bass cab, hence the 12/6 or 15/6 type designs (or in Andy Lewis's Acme cabs... 10" drivers specially voiced for low end and 5" mid drivers). Of course, if you put small drivers next to one another in a horizontal configuration, they act more like large cones, again beaming the high frequencies.
Of course, there are always trade-offs. A 410 with a good tweeter can sound marvelous, and a 15/6 with a simple crossover can sound sterile and lifeless. No 'one best way' with bass backline cabs, which are often designed to be part of the tonal signal chain versus pure 'reproduction of tone'. Any speaker design is a compromise and trade-off of many, many specs and performance/tonal goals.
Is there really a need for a 410+115 cab? Didn't Mesa make one of those? I think I saw one once. There are so many great-sounding cabs out there, I just don't see what advantage a 410+115 cab would bring to the table.
You might not be 50, but might want a colonoscopy to check for doom polyps.![]()