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MM Stingray 2 band shared pcb design

mnats

mnats

Supporting Member
Feb 2, 2013
109
289
Australia
#1
A while ago when the [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] weren’t readily available I did my own layout for the Music Man Stingray 2 Band preamp based upon the Baja diagram. Rather than run wires over the board to various points I used the PCB to connect pads adjacent to the holes drilled in the original for strain relief. This makes it easier to wire.

I’ve shared the design with Osh Park and have created a Link Removed with suggested parts. Hurry because the original IC has been discontinued.

Ok, pics or it didn't happen:
mmsr_2-band_bare_v1.03_forum.jpg
mmsr_2-band_loaded_v1.03_forum.jpg
mmsr_2-band_wiring_v1.03_forum.jpg
 

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#3
mnats said:
A while ago when the [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] weren’t readily available I did my own layout for the Music Man Stingray 2 Band preamp based upon the Baja diagram. Rather than run wires over the board to various points I used the PCB to connect pads adjacent to the holes drilled in the original for strain relief. This makes it easier to wire.

I’ve shared the design with Osh Park and have created a Link Removed with suggested parts. Hurry because the original IC has been discontinued.
Click to expand...

Very nice implementation! On my "crossgrade" build I kind of split the difference and included strain relief "in place" rather than extending traces out to the board edges. I built for the LT1351 instead of the LM4250 while I was at it. But your board is truer to the original design and I will definitely be recommending it to the people who periodically contact me looking for boards.

PWMM2B_v1_1_stuffed.jpg
 
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#4
I love the strain-relief idea. I have a Jazz bass with a fairly new preamp and after just fiddling with the controls in the tight cavity just a few times (swapping out pots for this or that idea) and I already had to resolder a couple wires back onto the board because they broke off at the joint. If the board had the strain-relief, it would never have happened (so soon, at least).
 
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#5
mnats said:
I’ve shared the design with Osh Park and have created a Link Removed with suggested parts. Hurry because the original IC has been discontinued.
Click to expand...

Thank you for this! I just placed an order for 3 boards from Osh Park and several sets of the components from your shared cart at Mouser, along with a few switched jacks and battery button leads. I was all set to just buy the Mojotone pre completed for 100 off Reverb, but the diy route is way more me.
 
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#6
BassLife77 said:
I've built 5 of these on perfs and don't see the point of strain relief. It just makes the board bigger and harder to get into small cavities. I just solder the wires to the board from the top
Click to expand...
I'm the complete opposite, if a board doesn't have strain relief I add it or don't build it.

Boards without strain relief are a complete PITA if you need to do any rework. Turn them over a few times and the wires start breaking at the solder joints.

(IMO, YMMV of course.)
 
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#8
@BassLife77, this one's clearly not for you, and I think you've missed the point of this thread.

The board itself offers a slick solution, but what's really slick is what @mnats has provided for us: Within a few minutes of stumbling on this thread, I had orders placed with Mouser and OSH Park for all the parts required to build the preamp, including the board. Couldn't have been easier. Very slick indeed. Thanks again mnats!
 
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#10
Can anyone confirm that the 1M pot in the Mouser cart (Alpha RV16AF-10-15K-C1M-3LA) has enough thread for mounting in a rear routed bass? As many people are installing a MM style preamp in a control plate, this isn't always a requirement, but I would need that for the bass I intend to use it on. Thanks!
 
#11
Jeff Moote said:
Can anyone confirm that the 1M pot in the Mouser cart (Alpha RV16AF-10-15K-C1M-3LA) has enough thread for mounting in a rear routed bass? As many people are installing a MM style preamp in a control plate, this isn't always a requirement, but I would need that for the bass I intend to use it on. Thanks!
Click to expand...
The dimensions of the pot are on Alpha's page linked from Mouser. But without knowing the thickness of your mounting surface it isn't possible to answer your question.
 
#12
BassLife77 said:
I've been building preamps without strain relief for 10 years and never had one failure. there is nothing tugging on the wires once everything is set in place. just make stronger solder joints
Click to expand...
The main point of failure is seldom the joint itself but the area where solder has wicked up the stranded wire. Since the battery has to be occasionally replaced the positive lead that goes to the board is the one that has the most stress. By the way, it's not my idea - strain relief was used on the original boards. If you don't like them a small amount of effort can make them disappear:

IMG_6796.jpg
 
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#14
mnats said:
The main point of failure is seldom the joint itself but the area where solder has wicked up the stranded wire. Since the battery has to be occasionally replaced the positive lead that goes to the board is the one that has the most stress. By the way, it's not my idea - strain relief was used on the original boards. If you don't like them a small amount of effort can make them disappear:

View attachment 2992005
Click to expand...
Exactly this ^

BassLife77 said:
just make stronger solder joints
Click to expand...
From this remark I take it that you are self taught.
 
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#16
mnats said:
The dimensions of the pot are on Alpha's page linked from Mouser. But without knowing the thickness of your mounting surface it isn't possible to answer your question.
Click to expand...

I can confirm that these will NOT work to mount on a Warmoth rear route body w/o additional work inside the control cavity to thin the wood. The threaded mount bushings are 6.5 mm tall, and need to be at least 9 mm tall for the nut to tighten.
 
#18
After a little R & D, here is what I came up with for rear-mounted controls on a 2-band MM-style pre:

25K audio taper pot w long mount shaft:
CTS 25K Long Thread Pot | Allparts.com

25K pots w/ built-in DPDT switches are also common at all guitar/bass parts outlets - bestbassgear, allparts, etc. Most of these will have long mount shafts as well.

100K audio taper pot w long mount shaft:
Link Removed

1Meg rev audio pot w long mount shaft:
Pot - split shaft - USA models
$12.95 (!!!) - not that common a configuration, plus sold as a G&L part, so $$$

YMMV, IMHO, etc - This is not meant to be a comprehensive list, just a half hour w Google, and a little bit of TB data mining. Other folks may have better sources.

Point is, the parts are out there, just not as common as you would think, especially the 1Meg rev audio config, if you have to have a long (at least 9.5 mm) mount shaft. Onesie-twosie orders like this are always a pain at the large parts houses like Mouser, but if you wanted 2000-5000 qty, everybody would want to help you...
 
#19
9.5-10 mm bushing length is not that hard to come by. The Alpha pots in the original Mouser BOM are available in a panel mount config with 10 mm bushing:

C1M: Link Removed

I've ordered those, but continue to search for a few other things I am looking for. Namely stacked and/or dual gang configurations with C1M as the lower gang.
 
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#20
I, too, ordered those exact same part numbers from Mouser only 2 wks ago, thinking I was ordering the 9.5 mm bushing pots. Imagine my surprise when they showed up with 6.5 mm bushings...

Hence the continuation of my search - don't let the datasheet fool you - gotta pay attention to all the letters/numbers in the part number....
 

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