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Modulus Mob

#8,741
this is when your high school trig comes in handy! any wire between anywhere on the bridge and ground will do. some people drill a shallow flat bottom hole first straight down, then using the aircraft drill bit, carefully connect the back cavity without putting a new hole in the back of the body! That is how many inlay jobs get started!

Also, if you're close enough to the bridge pickup rout, you could drill a hole there, and string the wire from bridge to pickup rout, and into the back cavity. Ground is ground.
 
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#8,742
renkema said:
swapped one of my '91 Q6s from EMG to full Bart setup. As it was full EMG, it did not have a factory route for the bridge ground. Other that just drilling away, can you advise on where the factory route would have been?
Click to expand...
16C11F31-55E4-404B-A882-ABD91E16E81F.jpeg

I don’t have the bass with me (at the shop getting pickups and electronics installed), but I’m 99% sure this is where it enters the cavity on this bass. It is a 2008, though, so the cavity isn’t exactly the same...
 
#8,745
im going to attempt to clean up my control cavity tonight. its like a warzone in there. 2x9volts just sorta bouncing around, getting some intermittent connection on the output jack, etc. I dont have a rout for the batteries to sit nicely on mine. Any pics of cleaner old setups would be appreciated.
 
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#8,746
GeoffGould said:
this is when your high school trig comes in handy! any wire between anywhere on the bridge and ground will do. some people drill a shallow flat bottom hole first straight down, then using the aircraft drill bit, carefully connect the back cavity without putting a new hole in the back of the body! That is how many inlay jobs get started!

Also, if you're close enough to the bridge pickup rout, you could drill a hole there, and string the wire from bridge to pickup rout, and into the back cavity. Ground is ground.
Click to expand...

Luckily, my son just got a 5 on his Calculus BC AP exam, so I have a good source for my angle of entry needs (queue proud dad handstand). definitely want to avoid an "inlay" project. Understand ground is ground but did not know if there was a hair splitting difference between going bridge to control cavity or bridge to bridge pickup cavity. going bridge to cavity (with cavity inner wall as reference) the run/rise is 30mm/15mm for entry below bridge to hit the cavity back wall midway up the wall. think that trig/tan-1 equates to a 26 degree drop angle...cut a piece of wood for a guide at that angle and I should be golden.

Also, (and apologies in advance is this is out of line for the forum) any chance to get a GG neck for my '81 G&L L2000...getting ready to send back to G&L for a new CLF neck which I'm sure will be great but not as great as one of yours. Understand if no, but if not, any suggestions on who could do the graphite neck (preemptively, Moses/Status are not options)?
 
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#8,748
renkema said:
Luckily, my son just got a 5 on his Calculus BC AP exam, so I have a good source for my angle of entry needs (queue proud dad handstand). definitely want to avoid an "inlay" project. Understand ground is ground but did not know if there was a hair splitting difference between going bridge to control cavity or bridge to bridge pickup cavity. going bridge to cavity (with cavity inner wall as reference) the run/rise is 30mm/15mm for entry below bridge to hit the cavity back wall midway up the wall. think that trig/tan-1 equates to a 26 degree drop angle...cut a piece of wood for a guide at that angle and I should be golden.

Also, (and apologies in advance is this is out of line for the forum) any chance to get a GG neck for my '81 G&L L2000...getting ready to send back to G&L for a new CLF neck which I'm sure will be great but not as great as one of yours. Understand if no, but if not, any suggestions on who could do the graphite neck (preemptively, Moses/Status are not an options)?
Click to expand...

congrats on your son's AP scores! I've also taught AP Chem, and know how hard those kids work.

We are not currently able to sell necks only. I think it's cheaper to keep your eyes peeled, and someone will come along who doesn't really get it, and will sell a used bass real cheap. GG is not a major brand, so some people won't even know what it is, or what it's worth.
 
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#8,749
GeoffGould said:
congrats on your son's AP scores! I've also taught AP Chem, and know how hard those kids work.

We are not currently able to sell necks only. I think it's cheaper to keep your eyes peeled, and someone will come along who doesn't really get it, and will sell a used bass real cheap. GG is not a major brand, so some people won't even know what it is, or what it's worth.
Click to expand...

Understood although would not agree that someone would be clueless as to GG. The internet makes for a very small world and of course most folks looking for a high quality CF neck directly associate that with your name. But flattery aside, as a Chem AP teacher, you know nature abhors a vacuum and there seems to be a large sucking sound for high quality (and probably expensive) carbon fiber replacement necks...just sayin'
 
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#8,753
renkema said:
you are spot on as I was able to find the below pic from a fellow talkbass member and that's where it angles in

View attachment 3084819
Click to expand...

Done, hardest part (not hard at all) was angle and then S L O W L Y drilling the top until the drill bit was a good 5mm into the wood and then just on through to the cavity.
 

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#8,756
GeoffGould said:
He had faith in his trig! I remember drilling a hole between the bridge area, and a long narrow control area in vintage J Bass config. I really sweated that one out because it wasn't that close to the bridge, and really had to do my calculations carefully!
Click to expand...
I didn’t even think of the calculations at first... dang. You both are certainly much braver than me.

I was just thinking of the finish at first. I know that if I tried to do that, I’d either crack the finish horribly, or the bit would dance around the top coat, causing horrible scratches. Even if I somehow got a pilot hole or mark so it didn’t do that, I’d mess the finish up in some way.
 
#8,757
bridge-ground.jpg

what you see here is a larger hole, under the bridge, then you go in with the smaller long bit, and you are not as worried about the drill dancing across the surface of your body. Of course, it's much better to do this before finishing the bass! I have all my bodies done like this, even though most basses will have EMG's. I'm somewhat agnostic about pickups, and if you want to swap something else in there, be my guest. Bridge ground hole already drilled!
 
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#8,758
Posting some pics of my control cavity.

A few things I have questions about.

Pic 1 is the EMG preamp. It’s labeled CTS but I believe it’s a BTS pre?
Pic 2 is attached straight to the stacked mid control. I know nothing about it other than dialing in mids is a pain in the butt.

Pic 3 is the whole cavity. No shielding in there. Is this really needed? Made it this far without it.

Everything look cool otherwise In there?

If y’all wanna remind me about those dip switches on the pre I wouldn’t mind.

91119561-77D0-4FCC-9835-B0906038DE99.jpeg
6D3D1F7B-F6E7-4CA9-8826-B0F6DB637439.jpeg
32786721-E985-485C-8D6F-BD4579E308F2.jpeg
 
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#8,759
loveandbass said:
Posting some pics of my control cavity.

A few things I have questions about.

Pic 1 is the EMG preamp. It’s labeled CTS but I believe it’s a BTS pre?
Pic 2 is attached straight to the stacked mid control. I know nothing about it other than dialing in mids is a pain in the butt.

Pic 3 is the whole cavity. No shielding in there. Is this really needed? Made it this far without it.

Everything look cool otherwise In there?

If y’all wanna remind me about those dip switches on the pre I wouldn’t mind.

View attachment 3087148 View attachment 3087149 View attachment 3087150
Click to expand...
I can’t answer all your questions, but BTS is a 2 band eq (Bass Treble Seperate), so if you have mids, it ain’t that...
 

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