Yes, way too large. Open the original in Paint. The click on the Resize button. the boxes will both say 100. I usually start by changing one to 50 (the other will adjust with it). Once you have the size you want, save it.
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- Thread starter Scoops
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OK,
I totally forgot what a PITA wiring in a preamp is. Whats worse, I had to assemble the circuit board. Nice thing is I got it right the first time.
The bass as shown comes in at 7.8lbs. Strings and a few ebony knobs will prolly put it just over 8lbs
I'll cut the nut and string it up tomorrow sometime.
Unfortunately, was on the phone a lot today with headhunters, and damn, I'll probably be going back to work soon. Got 2 interviews this week.
Cheers and thanks for watching
I totally forgot what a PITA wiring in a preamp is. Whats worse, I had to assemble the circuit board. Nice thing is I got it right the first time.
The bass as shown comes in at 7.8lbs. Strings and a few ebony knobs will prolly put it just over 8lbs
I'll cut the nut and string it up tomorrow sometime.
Unfortunately, was on the phone a lot today with headhunters, and damn, I'll probably be going back to work soon. Got 2 interviews this week.
Cheers and thanks for watching
Serious bummer!!!
The hex nut broke off the truss rod. Wasn't even forcing it, it just gave way.
Cheap Asian Amazon Crap
The hex nut broke off the truss rod. Wasn't even forcing it, it just gave way.
Cheap Asian Amazon Crap
Oh man, my biggest fear. did you test it before installing? I try to do that every time, but I have forgotten before and had the moment of silence before the first turn.
Yes, I tested it, but only to see that it was functional. You raise a great point, but how would I test it with a "load" before I install it?
Hopkins
Commercial User
Its heal adjust?
You can probably salvage everything. Just rout out a rectangular section of the heal that will be hidden by the neck pocket, to where you can grab it with a pair of pliers or vice grips, and you can probably pull the rod out of the channel. Then you can install a new rod and glue in a replacement block of wood. I did exactly that on a neck recently that had a busted rod.
You can probably salvage everything. Just rout out a rectangular section of the heal that will be hidden by the neck pocket, to where you can grab it with a pair of pliers or vice grips, and you can probably pull the rod out of the channel. Then you can install a new rod and glue in a replacement block of wood. I did exactly that on a neck recently that had a busted rod.
- Apr 18, 2008
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- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
Dang, rotten luck that. Were you relying on the rod to move the neck? I've always felt the better approach is to move the neck first, using clamps and blocks, then tighten the rod, then unclamp the neck.
Yes it is heal adjust. Nice suggestion. I'll have to see what I can do to save it because it turned out nice
Yes I was relying on the rod to move the neck. As for your suggestion, this will probably become my new standard practice.
This is great advice, and in all actuality, I walked away from this build. I'll return soon, but just need to regroup on this.
OK,
Now that I'm between jobs, might as well finish some of the projects that I had started
If we go back a few months, the nut broke off the truss rod. I tried to salvage the neck, but for some reason, the TR didn't want to come out, so I built a new neck. Well, sorta. I'm about 1/2 way.
The new neck will be Macassar Ebony neck and FB.
I'm about to put a radius on it
Now that I'm between jobs, might as well finish some of the projects that I had started
If we go back a few months, the nut broke off the truss rod. I tried to salvage the neck, but for some reason, the TR didn't want to come out, so I built a new neck. Well, sorta. I'm about 1/2 way.
The new neck will be Macassar Ebony neck and FB.
I'm about to put a radius on it
Update:
Yesterday I put a 10 inch radius on the FB. This morning I brought the head stock to thickness, and I'm doing a light sanding on the FB to get the router patterns out. Hopefully, a little later today, I'll be profiling the neck. This is going to buff out nicely.
Yesterday I put a 10 inch radius on the FB. This morning I brought the head stock to thickness, and I'm doing a light sanding on the FB to get the router patterns out. Hopefully, a little later today, I'll be profiling the neck. This is going to buff out nicely.
sorry about the truss rod mishap last winter --- glad your back into it.
just wanted say that i've lusted for your original build and this one also seems totally lust worthy! i'm enjoying your work!
sorry about the truss rod mishap last winter --- glad your back into it.
just wanted say that i've lusted for your original build and this one also seems totally lust worthy! i'm enjoying your work!
Thanks JRA. Appreciate it.
Here are some more pics on how I make a neck
First I put in a taper (Sorry. It's a bit hard to see)
Then I do a 1/2 round over on as much of the neck as I can, and I'll put in the volute concave cut
Then I'll use my drill with a 60 grit sanding disc to get the neck roughly shaped up
Then I'll use an assortment of tools to zero in on the profile. By the end of this task, I end up with a pretty nice "D" profile
Update,
Put the taper and profile in. This morning, I notice that the wood "moved" a bit, and I now have a bow. During the next couple weeks I'll let the neck sit to see if it moves any more before I go to re mediate.
Cheers and thanks for looking
Put the taper and profile in. This morning, I notice that the wood "moved" a bit, and I now have a bow. During the next couple weeks I'll let the neck sit to see if it moves any more before I go to re mediate.
Cheers and thanks for looking
