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Music Man StingRay Club | PART FIVE
- Thread starter fivestringgecko
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I'm not normally into gold basses, or 5 string StingRay's, but that thing is beautiful!
Ditto on what Down_Low said. Gold with maple fretboard is perfect for a 5 string StingRay. Wow, that is beautiful!
Thanks fellas! Now I just need to figure out how to make her sound good with my rig.... I'm accustomed to passive basses!
I always start with amp flat and all onboard EQ to 0 to see what's left - these are the bits you can only control with the volume knob/amp volume. Adjust both to suit then start adding the rest back in slowly.
With actives as powerful as the Ray it's very tempting to dime everything - IME this is the route to disappointment and frustration.
Great advice! Do you have any experience with adding a Preamp/DI box in the mix between guitar/amp? Since I've always played passives, this has always been my go-to section for EQ/color - I use a Pike Vulcan XL, but with an onboard EQ to deal with too, I gotta admit I'm just confused/overwhelmed!
Not with actives, and since mid 90's I've fed FOH from post-EQ DI on the amp, so no. Sorry.
Not with actives, and since mid 90's I've fed FOH from post-EQ DI on the amp, so no. Sorry.
Ditto on the FOH post-DI. Cool! Maybe when I'm swinging the Ray around I can really downsize the ol' pedalboard!
StingRays are very articulate basses, with a lot of room to boost or cut EQ. I have found with experience that your right hand position and attack is really important on a StingRay, perhaps moreso than on other basses. You have an HS bass (nice, that is an awesome pickup combo), which gives a lot of pickup selection options too. My main StingRay is also an HS, a 4-string. I like to use the rear humbucker and pluck with my right thumb "anchored" (not really anchored, but as a reference point) on the S pickup. I use MarkBass amps and leave the amp as totally flat for EQ. On the bass, I'll either run flat or cut a smidge of mids and/or boost a smidge of bass. A little goes a LONG way on MM basses' EQ. That's all there is to it, that is my favorite sound.
Good luck with yours. I'd recommend start with all EQ's flat and the H pickup selected and use small EQ cuts or boosts on the bass first. Remember, on a StingRay like yours, center detent is "flat," and you can boost or cut a LOT from there on hi, mid, and low. Go easy on the cut/boost, it really can be drastic. Sorry if that's overly basic. You have an awesome bass, enjoy it!!
Just played this guy at practice tonight (I usually play my G&L JB). Sounded awesome, might need to do that more!
En route to me. Should be here tomorrow.
More interesting pics when it arrives...
More interesting pics when it arrives...
Not to dispute as sound is subjective. From the standpoint as both a union
sound tech and years experience with my own company running bands; and
as a bassist in varied formats I agree with several FOH guys in that they prefer
you feed them PRE EQ as that allows them to EQ as best suits the room and their
system. What you (we) want to hear from our rigs is a lot more tone than their
pre's can accept so they wind up backing off gain or EQ to the point all the room
hears is low level 100Hz and below if you're lucky- overcompensating for a bass
player that won't "turn down". Plus your (larger cab) low end won't be fully
realized 'till hits the back of the room right where the FOH is. Better to give him
flat EQ and unity (gain structure) and let him make your bed in the mix.
Remember- the "active"/"passive" input button is there for a reason.
You can always boost EQ for your stage level, once the room is filled. Don't be "that guy".
And agreement on the active/ passive thingy. That's one of the benefits of active. Preamp is in the electronics so you can back off alittle on the inst. EQ/ Volume; giving you the headroom if you later, wish to wreak havoc.
I run a wireless that has a preamp which when coupled with the EMG's/ SR's
brings out a thunderous growl that precipitates the above (only a) suggestion.
Enjoy the new toy and buy the SO something nice.
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Hi all - Would love to join your club and have a question on what everybody things about strings.
My SR5 has been my main "go to" bass for over 5 years now, bought it new from Bass Central. She's stock other than the pick-guard. These photos taken about 4 years ago when I first installed the purpleheart PG.
Currently strung with DR High Beams. My other basses are: Fender Aerodyne and a G&L L1505; both of which are wearing flatwound strings.
the 'Ray is due to go in for a setup and I'll buy new strings for teh occasion. I've been leaving rounds on the SR5 for more textural variety between the Fender and the G&L.
On the other hand I've been enjoying the flats so much I'm tempted to buy flats for it as well.
your thoughts - especially if you have a StingRay and a G&L.
thanks
My SR5 has been my main "go to" bass for over 5 years now, bought it new from Bass Central. She's stock other than the pick-guard. These photos taken about 4 years ago when I first installed the purpleheart PG.
Currently strung with DR High Beams. My other basses are: Fender Aerodyne and a G&L L1505; both of which are wearing flatwound strings.
the 'Ray is due to go in for a setup and I'll buy new strings for teh occasion. I've been leaving rounds on the SR5 for more textural variety between the Fender and the G&L.
On the other hand I've been enjoying the flats so much I'm tempted to buy flats for it as well.
your thoughts - especially if you have a StingRay and a G&L.
thanks
I'm using La Bella flats on my SR5 and really happy with them, warm tone and thumps hard. I used the same flats on the G&l L2k I had and liked them on that bass too. Great strings and not too expensive
My L2500 and my Stingray sound fantastic DR nickel Lo Riders. But I decide dto try Chomes on the L to tame it a little (I've had Chromes on other basses before and really liked them) and that worked. The L-2500 is still as growly as I want, I don't have the string noise on top of it, and it sounds great.
I've tried quite a few different strings, including stainless steel Lo Riders, on my Stingray but always go back to nickel Lo Riders.
I've tried quite a few different strings, including stainless steel Lo Riders, on my Stingray but always go back to nickel Lo Riders.
Having the best kind of crisis today... which is when you have to decide to go with white pearl or the stock black... AND if you go with the pearl, do you get a tort guard for your black/maple to replace it! AUGHGHGH!!!!! So crazy how different it looks in different light.
(This bass is quite nice.)
(This bass is quite nice.)
