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Double Bass My DB project

#41
I'd be less concerned about the knot than the size of the fingerboard - you will need to remove wood from the back to make it completely flat and you will need the shape the front surface as well. If you remove a minimum of 2mm from the used fingerboard are you still left with a reasonably thick fingerboard?
 
#42
Matthew Tucker said:
I'd be less concerned about the knot than the size of the fingerboard - you will need to remove wood from the back to make it completely flat and you will need the shape the front surface as well. If you remove a minimum of 2mm from the used fingerboard are you still left with a reasonably thick fingerboard?
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I don’t know Mat (I saw it but I didn’t measure it), I need to study the case. I don’t know yet what is the optimum thickness of a FB for a DB… and planning the back sound easy, now reshaping the front not that easy… I will pop the front soon, he gave me some instructions and your video also helps, a soon as I open the thing I will send some pictures
 
#43
think how you are going to clamp the fingerboard to plane the back flat. How you going to check that it IS flat? my new fingerboards are 20mm thick at the nut and the edges are 12mm thick from end to end. you can use a 2nd hand fingerboard but you need to make sure it will fit and that there's enough wood to play with. Remember that in its life a fingerboard gets reshaped 3-4 times then you have to replace it.
 
#44
Matthew Tucker said:
think how you are going to clamp the fingerboard to plane the back flat. How you going to check that it IS flat? my new fingerboards are 20mm thick at the nut and the edges are 12mm thick from end to end. you can use a 2nd hand fingerboard but you need to make sure it will fit and that there's enough wood to play with. Remember that in its life a fingerboard gets reshaped 3-4 times then you have to replace it.
Click to expand...
Got it
 
#45
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The bottom block Issue:

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Rip crack

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The patch

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The back is coming off a little

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#49
hide...get real familiar with it.
take your time or you'll be doing a restoration of your restoration.
start hunting/making spool clamps.
finish the work on the top 100%,then set aside and move onward.

*since your bass is now in pieces it might help to move the thread over to set up/repair and let that crowd further your efforts.
 
#50
A note about spool clamps. You can get super long lengths of threaded rod in the electrical department at Home Depot, for a lot cheaper than in the bolt & nut department. The threaded rod is used for hanging conduits and stuff from ceilings.

There's still a box of homemade clamps in my parents' attic, from when I reassembled my Kay in 1982.
 
#54
fdeck said:
A note about spool clamps. You can get super long lengths of threaded rod in the electrical department at Home Depot, for a lot cheaper than in the bolt & nut department. The threaded rod is used for hanging conduits and stuff from ceilings.

There's still a box of homemade clamps in my parents' attic, from when I reassembled my Kay in 1982.
Click to expand...

I saw the long electrical rods at lowes it was like $5, around three feet, let me asked u guys, how many clamps do it need?
 
#56
Good Deal those clamps are a easy project, I havent received my chuck T book just yet, I need to order some hide glue, get familiar with it... I saw a youtube video of John Bullar working with hide glue:



I think the setting time is super fast I wonder how I going to be able to clamp 40 to 50 spool clamps in a huge DB top in such a short amount of time... not to be alarm I will cross that bridge when i get there... I have to focus now on repair the top get it ready....
 
#57
I used to fight that monster, but now I clamp the whole thing up correctly, and dry; then loosen four or five clamps at a time, and, using a palette knife or something similar, I work the hide glue into just that section, re-clamp, clean up with hot water, and move to the next section.

I try to get the blocks first, and make sure a lot of glue gets in there. But the whole deal is very fast, and stress-free, now.
 
#58
1st Bass said:
I used to fight that monster, but now I clamp the whole thing up correctly, and dry; then loosen four or five clamps at a time, and, using a palette knife or something similar, I work the hide glue into just that section, re-clamp, clean up with hot water, and move to the next section.

I try to get the blocks first, and make sure a lot of glue gets in there. But the whole deal is very fast, and stress-free, now.
Click to expand...

That’s not a bad idea, I see how I can quickly get in trouble trying to glue the whole top at the same time and then clamping it, now by clamping four a the time u get more time and the top its in the right position for sure, but let me ask you by gluing in sections I would be worry about a no glue gap in between sections and it may get harder towards the end right? Not big deal I still need to study how to repair the top 100%, repair the bass inside and glue the back after that the glue up for the top… I am getting my book today… but I will be out of town for the holydays 
 
#59
You tend to overlap just a little. I have found it works very well-- You clamp the WHOLE thing, dry, though-- not just a few. Then remove the ones that allow access to the blocks, and glue them up and reclamp, one block at a time. Then get the spaces between.

Good luck with it.
 

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