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Double Bass My DB project

#103
rgarcia26 said:
Yes I was just making sure before I do mine, because I am using chuck book and he does not agree with the traditional bass bar method but be scrap a little his bars at the ends like 1/8"
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Mr. Traeger's book is a wonderful resource but there are a few things he advocates that are very controversial. That much spring would introduce a fair bit of tension into the top which is better off if completely relaxed. ;)
 
#104
Ok I am going a little crazy with the Edges:
I can not make the south part of the top to flush, everything else is making contact with the surface, and If I keep removing material from the whole top so the south part can touch, I am going to be removing a lot of material from the original top... I don't know what is wrong... I also notice that the top curve from west to east is not perfect should i be concern about that? u can see it the pictures ???


IMAG0200.jpg


IMAG0196-1.jpg



IMAG0197.jpg


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#105
How does that top line up with the ribs? They probably don't make a flat plane, either. You should make the edges of the top an even thickness, this is a sign of a competent luthier. There will probably be some coaxing to get the top to line up, if you feel it is too much, take a little off the ribs to improve the fit, if the bass has outside linings, this could be a problem, it's never easy.
 
#106
uprightben said:
How does that top line up with the ribs? They probably don't make a flat plane, either. You should make the edges of the top an even thickness, this is a sign of a competent luthier. There will probably be some coaxing to get the top to line up, if you feel it is too much, take a little off the ribs to improve the fit, if the bass has outside linings, this could be a problem, it's never easy.
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Thank you, I improvised I chalk fit it and it worked, not perfect but a lot better, now I didn't want to go to far because still need to take the old bass bar and install a new one, i am thinking this may change the top a little so I rather wait until later to get a better fit

Here is the chalk on the ribs:

IMAG0208.jpg
 
#116
If that were my bass bar there would be a lot less wood on it. That one looks very heavy to me, however everyone has their own theory. If I was going to leave a flat portion, I wouldn't make it any longer than a third of the bar length and I would taper the ends more. I think the ends need to be able to flex. But ... everyone has their own theory.
 
#117
Matthew Tucker said:
If that were my bass bar there would be a lot less wood on it. That one looks very heavy to me, however everyone has their own theory. If I was going to leave a flat portion, I wouldn't make it any longer than a third of the bar length and I would taper the ends more. I think the ends need to be able to flex. But ... everyone has their own theory.
Click to expand...

+1 If that were mine it would also be much more triangular in section.
 
#118
Matthew Tucker said:
If that were my bass bar there would be a lot less wood on it. That one looks very heavy to me, however everyone has their own theory. If I was going to leave a flat portion, I wouldn't make it any longer than a third of the bar length and I would taper the ends more. I think the ends need to be able to flex. But ... everyone has their own theory.
Click to expand...





Jake deVilliers said:
+1 If that were mine it would also be much more triangular in section.
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I got no problem on taking more wood, I do agree, but when I'll know I've remove just enough, so the bar is strong but flexible, the only note have read about it.. its from a cello maker he said he relies on experience... me I got "0"

I will get back to it and take some pictures :D
 

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