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Double Bass My DB project
- Thread starter rgarcia26
- Start date
Yes
long history short, this FB came of from a wreck EUB project, but the FB was glue with yellow glue, so I could not take off the neck, so I use my butchering skills and with my band saw cut the FB off the neck...obviously I lost a great amount of FB wood in the process.. so I plane the FB and glue a shim of wood to it
... PS I am planning on changing that finger board for a new one anyways in the future
I at that point that I dont know what to do.... there is something happening with this top that I can figure out... its not sitting down well I dont know if while I was working on the top it got distort or there is something else that I am missing. Help! 
if you take the weight off the neck (lift it little at he scroll) does the top fit better?
If so, no problem at all.
Steve
If so, no problem at all.
Steve
Matthew Tucker
Commercial User
- Aug 21, 2002
- 2,686
- 387
- Disclosures
- Owner: Bresque Basses, Sydney Basses and Cellos
You could try spraying the inside of the top with water. this will make it swell a bit and may flatten it out enough to allow you to clamp and glue it. Not ideal, but hey.
You want to get rid of all that blue chalk, too, before you glue it.
A tip - put the bass top-side down for a clamping test-run. You can see the overlap much better that way. Also, if you glue this way, you don't get glue drips all down the sides of the ribs.
You want to get rid of all that blue chalk, too, before you glue it.
A tip - put the bass top-side down for a clamping test-run. You can see the overlap much better that way. Also, if you glue this way, you don't get glue drips all down the sides of the ribs.
1) Its actually close but I have to apply a little more fore than the weight of my arms... the streets is from north to south. Water then I bed some heat to it will help too, to bad I dont have a heating pad or so, but I do have a heat gun .
2) Well yes the blue chalk was to see where are the points of contact with the top and worked a little with my scraper
3) Great tip matt did not though about that... Men you got some ideas
So like you guys said I dry clamp the Top to the body, I've have being told to left it like this for a couple days....!!!!
AS you can see in the picture the very north side of the top is not closing... if I forced it will break....
1- I am thinking of adding a little shim to the body to compensate
2- or.... I dont know if I should try to bend a little the top?
3. Another Observation is that the top overlaps a lot more on top of the north rips than the south ones.. the south are almost flush.... why is that happening someone knows?
1- I am thinking of adding a little shim to the body to compensate
2- or.... I dont know if I should try to bend a little the top?
3. Another Observation is that the top overlaps a lot more on top of the north rips than the south ones.. the south are almost flush.... why is that happening someone knows?
Matthew Tucker
Commercial User
- Aug 21, 2002
- 2,686
- 387
- Disclosures
- Owner: Bresque Basses, Sydney Basses and Cellos
Reuben it looks like you may have planed too much off the top near the neck pocket, but maybe it's the block inside not contacting too well? You have to look closely to see what causes this. It's easier to add wood to the top than to the rib. Doesn't matter if the top edge is thicker at that point.
I find a slip of paper with graphite run across it works well to highlight the high spots, slip the paper into the joint, clamp lightly and pull out the paper. It will highlight with graphite mark where you may need to remove wood.
The lower bouts are flush? The bass has been open for quite a while and the ribs have relaxed. Try pushing the lower corner blocks and lower block inwards (loosen clamps nearby a little) there's usually a fair but of movement possible. Perhaps this is what is causing your gaps all around?
Oh and I'd raise the bass off the table, on a few blocks, wood or polystyrene would do, just get the thing supported at the edges not the belly.
I find a slip of paper with graphite run across it works well to highlight the high spots, slip the paper into the joint, clamp lightly and pull out the paper. It will highlight with graphite mark where you may need to remove wood.
The lower bouts are flush? The bass has been open for quite a while and the ribs have relaxed. Try pushing the lower corner blocks and lower block inwards (loosen clamps nearby a little) there's usually a fair but of movement possible. Perhaps this is what is causing your gaps all around?
Oh and I'd raise the bass off the table, on a few blocks, wood or polystyrene would do, just get the thing supported at the edges not the belly.
in others thinks should I be worry about this little crack... remember there is new edges bellow it...
it is located on the north rip E string side
it is located on the north rip E string side
The Sound post... terrible location.. but this is the old one it doesnt fit anymore 1" behind the bridge foot.. so I place it very close to the foot... just to get the general assembly and the action.
I am already F@#$#@ my first string, I not quite sure how?
The action is still mess.
Today I fit a new sound post and in the right place too... I still dont want to tune it in.. because that string "d"... I am scare of that string, it may killing me...
Now I can see how a DB is a marvel piece of engineering, I just can't believe how such a small bridge can support that load, and then transfer that to a thin and fragile top, the miracles of arches
Before:
After:
Today I fit a new sound post and in the right place too... I still dont want to tune it in.. because that string "d"... I am scare of that string, it may killing me...
Now I can see how a DB is a marvel piece of engineering, I just can't believe how such a small bridge can support that load, and then transfer that to a thin and fragile top, the miracles of arches
Before:
After:
I may be wrong, but the tailpiece seems very far back. A rule of thumb: length of string behind bridge= 1/6th length of string between bridge and nut. If this is not possible, you might consider shortening the tailpiece.
I have enjoyed following your progress and have been very impressed with your attention to detail and craftsmanship.
Note of warning. The real work may just be beginning in dealing with making the fine adjustments to bridge and fingerboard that will please just you!
Steven
I have enjoyed following your progress and have been very impressed with your attention to detail and craftsmanship.
Note of warning. The real work may just be beginning in dealing with making the fine adjustments to bridge and fingerboard that will please just you!
Steven
Matthew Tucker
Commercial User
- Aug 21, 2002
- 2,686
- 387
- Disclosures
- Owner: Bresque Basses, Sydney Basses and Cellos
Its looking like a bass, Reuben!
yes i agree you don't want the tailpiece hanging over the bottom edge like that.
How tall is that bridge? Looks huge. But may be an optical illusion.
The string windings are coming apart I think because the nut slots are not completely smooth and lubed with graphite. At tension even the slightest ridge will try to pull the string windings apart especially if the core is synthetic. Doesn't happen so much with Spiros and so on.
yes i agree you don't want the tailpiece hanging over the bottom edge like that.
How tall is that bridge? Looks huge. But may be an optical illusion.
The string windings are coming apart I think because the nut slots are not completely smooth and lubed with graphite. At tension even the slightest ridge will try to pull the string windings apart especially if the core is synthetic. Doesn't happen so much with Spiros and so on.
Jake deVilliers
Commercial User
- May 24, 2006
- 6,349
- 607
- Disclosures
- Owner of The Bass Spa, String Repairman at Long & McQuade Vancouver
Hey Reuben, like the other guys said, the after-lengths need to be about 1/6 of the mensure or even better, tuned to 2 octaves and a fourth higher than the other part of the string.
Your 'D' string slot might be a little tight for the string too... The bass has a great look though!
Your 'D' string slot might be a little tight for the string too... The bass has a great look though!
