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Double Bass My DB project

#121
Better but yes, take off some more. The ends can taper down to a quarter of an inch or so. Its hard to tell from the angle of the pic, but it looks like you could make the the shape much more triangular too.

How's it sound when you hold up the top and hit it with the side of your thumb? How deep is the bar at its deepest point?
 
#122
Jake deVilliers said:
Better but yes, take off some more. The ends can taper down to a quarter of an inch or so. Its hard to tell from the angle of the pic, but it looks like you could make the the shape much more triangular too.

How's it sound when you hold up the top and hit it with the side of your thumb? How deep is the bar at its deepest point?
Click to expand...
Like this one?


DB_Hunter_082.JPG
 
#123
Ok… everything is going well so far… thanks to god and you guys

Ok… everything is going well so far… thanks to god and you guys

So I did savage a Finger board from a 5 string old failed project, and the FB is like ¼” wider than my neck, so I see so many variables between Nut, FB and bridge… That I can not figure it out where to star, and if trimming down the FB like this is going to have a mayor effect of the FB profile…??? you know what I mean… I draw a graphic for you to see




IMAG0371.jpg
 
#124
rgarcia26 said:
Ok… everything is going well so far… thanks to god and you guys

Ok… everything is going well so far… thanks to god and you guys

So I did savage a Finger board from a 5 string old failed project, and the FB is like ¼” wider than my neck, so I see so many variables between Nut, FB and bridge… That I can not figure it out where to star, and if trimming down the FB like this is going to have a mayor effect of the FB profile…??? you know what I mean… I draw a graphic for you to see




IMAG0371.jpg
Click to expand...

You could cut back the sides and plane off a lot of the bottom but it would be a waste of precious Ebony. Far better to save or sell that board and just get a new one in the correct size from Metropolitan Music.
 
#125
Jake deVilliers said:
You could cut back the sides and plane off a lot of the bottom but it would be a waste of precious Ebony. Far better to save or sell that board and just get a new one in the correct size from Metropolitan Music.
Click to expand...

Well this one was an Chinese ebony FB ($90), no expensive, I know how you guys feel about the Chinese stuff but this is not bad quality ebony…

I will check for a new one anyways, that could save me a lot of troubles
 
#126
Nothing wrong with a thick fingerboard really. Depends how thick your neck is, and anyway, if this is your first fingerboard you might need a bit of extra thickness when you are profiling it for scoop etc. If you have a lot of ebony thickness and play arco you might consider making a parabolic crossways arch which has been written about by Ken Mckay somewhere. This method gives, in theory, optimum clearance between strings for bow work and optimum clearance under the strings. (usually if you raise the A and D strings to give better separation for bow work those strings end up a fair bit higher off the ebony.) But it doesn't suit everyone.

I think I'd use that board, cut one edge off to use as ebony strips/saddle etc (depends how much you can cut off) and plane the rest of the board down to what you want.

How thick is the board in the centre anyway?
 
#128
Matthew Tucker said:
Nothing wrong with a thick fingerboard really. Depends how thick your neck is, and anyway, if this is your first fingerboard you might need a bit of extra thickness when you are profiling it for scoop etc. If you have a lot of ebony thickness and play arco you might consider making a parabolic crossways arch which has been written about by Ken Mckay somewhere. This method gives, in theory, optimum clearance between strings for bow work and optimum clearance under the strings. (usually if you raise the A and D strings to give better separation for bow work those strings end up a fair bit higher off the ebony.) But it doesn't suit everyone.

I think I'd use that board, cut one edge off to use as ebony strips/saddle etc (depends how much you can cut off) and plane the rest of the board down to what you want.

How thick is the board in the centre anyway?
Click to expand...


at the thickest point I think is 17mm
 
#130
rgarcia26 said:
at the thickest point I think is 17mm
Click to expand...

Well that's not all that thick, you'll need all of that. I'd just trim the sides and glue it on then adjust the arch profile if you need to. I wouldn't plane any thickness off the bottom of the board, just take make sure both glueing surfaces are flat flat flat. I have a nice piece of 1/4" plate glass about 3" wide and 14" long that I glue sandpaper to either side (80g/240g) and find it really useful for getting things really flat.

Or do as Jake said and get a narrower board, but unless you have a use for that one ...
 
#131
Matthew Tucker said:
Well that's not all that thick, you'll need all of that. I'd just trim the sides and glue it on then adjust the arch profile if you need to. I wouldn't plane any thickness off the bottom of the board, just take make sure both glueing surfaces are flat flat flat. I have a nice piece of 1/4" plate glass about 3" wide and 14" long that I glue sandpaper to either side (80g/240g) and find it really useful for getting things really flat.

Or do as Jake said and get a narrower board, but unless you have a use for that one ...
Click to expand...

got ya... I am working on getting this flat, but is not perfect, i am using a 6" piece of 2X4 with 60 sand paper stick to it.... not perfectly flat , I do have granite that is very flat that i can use to flat the FB, well the neck is another history

IMAG0383.jpg


IMAG0382.jpg
 
#137
Matthew Tucker said:
That bass bar looks much better.

And square clamps - well I actually prefer them now, they seem to hold better! But, you only need a wingnut on one end; the other end you can glue in with a spot of epoxy. Don't have to, but this will give you a bit more length.
Click to expand...

1. This bass bar has a lot less material than the original one (the old BB)... I hope it do well

2. I use 1/4" rod a regular nut in one side and a windnut in the other side ...two square 1" blocks with a piece of self adhesive cork that I got from Target :smug: . it only cost me $40 for the whole thing... and they hold well...
 
#140
Jake deVilliers said:
That bass bar looks a lot better JERRY - how does it sound? ;)
Click to expand...

Hey I tap it a little, it sound more free on the bass ends in the center its gives a higher tone compared to the sound post side. but since I got the edges on the top doesnt vibrate like it use to, it feels rigid and heavier... but again I dont really got that experience on I can tell you what I am looking for
 

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