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My New Studio Build (perhaps overly detailed)
- Thread starter silky smoove
- Start date
Paint job looks great. Be proud of your craftsmanship and patience.
Now all you have to do is grab a chair and relax as you envision your final bits.
Have fun, you earned it.
Hmmmm...
The vestibule paint has mostly dried, and now in the late afternoon and evening light it looks a little baby blue rather than gray. Going to check it again tomorrow in the afternoon and with my shop lights. Hopefully it doesn’t still look the same or I might have to put up a different color. Fingers crossed!
Grays are either blue grays or green grays. You’d have to go lighter to avoid seeing the base color.
There are some sort of brown and reddish grays too, but those are obviously no good. This one is just a little too blue. Something more steely would have been preferable, which is how the sample rolled on. Oh well. It still looks good, and I’m not going to lost any sleep over it.
Strategy for the coming week: I got called on to sub for a gig on Friday. It’s a gig I’ve done before, but there are 11 new tunes in the set to learn by then. On top of that I’m going on a short kayaking trip the same day. Those two things are really cutting into my studio time. The ceiling paper arrives on Tuesday. I was hoping to have the HVAC hanging by the end of the week so that over the weekend my wife and I could put up the paper. I don’t see that happening. Instead I think I’ll get the lighting ordered, find fasteners for the HVAC, and then plan on hanging the HVAC and making a trip to the flooring store to get that picked out next weekend. Ceiling paper the weekend after. My time saved this weekend just evaporated, but I’m still marching along, so it’s all good.
Will you have a feed through for a mic going into the vestibule just in case you ever wanted to record anything out there in a live situation?
Negative. Nothing will ever be recorded out there. It's purely a storage and entry space.
Fastening to hat channel is turning into quite an ordeal. Sheet metal screws like the ones that are included with the mini split and HRV are not recommended for use with metal studs or hat channel. Drywall screws have low shear and head strength when not partially embedded into drywall, so they're out. Self tapping/drilling screws are often recommended but there are lots of reports of these not holding things securely.
What seems to be the most highly recommended option is toggle bolts, and more specifically what are called driller toggles. These effectively squeeze the back of the hat channel and force it into the drywall. These recommendations are generally for metal studs, not hat channel, but the principal is generally the same. What concerns me is the clips involved and the hat shape rather than the flat shape of the stud. I'd want the toggle to press against the back of the hat section and not the flanges, meaning it would need to end up in a sideways orientation. This is all very precise for something that I can't see given the already installed drywall. Time to give the Whisper Clips folks a call!
EDIT: Their phone tree is a disaster. I sent them a customer support email. Hopefully I get a timely response.
What seems to be the most highly recommended option is toggle bolts, and more specifically what are called driller toggles. These effectively squeeze the back of the hat channel and force it into the drywall. These recommendations are generally for metal studs, not hat channel, but the principal is generally the same. What concerns me is the clips involved and the hat shape rather than the flat shape of the stud. I'd want the toggle to press against the back of the hat section and not the flanges, meaning it would need to end up in a sideways orientation. This is all very precise for something that I can't see given the already installed drywall. Time to give the Whisper Clips folks a call!
EDIT: Their phone tree is a disaster. I sent them a customer support email. Hopefully I get a timely response.
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The folks at Green Glue were absolutely zero help with fastener selection. My current plan is to use a steel framer screw and see how the mounting brackets feel. If the result isn't tight enough for my taste I'll back the screws out and move on to driller toggles for hopefully better results.
@peterpalmieri you used hat channel of some sort on your build right? Did you hang anything on it like a mini split, monitor screen, guitar hangers, etc. If so, what type of screws did you use?
@peterpalmieri you used hat channel of some sort on your build right? Did you hang anything on it like a mini split, monitor screen, guitar hangers, etc. If so, what type of screws did you use?
You’d think that Green Glue would have a solution. Perhaps a company that sells their products would be more helpful.
It makes sense to try it and see. The advantage of a driller toggle is that ones are available with a good load capacity. A problem may be screw length.
Cobra Anchors 3/16 in. x 3 in. Zinc-Plated Driller Toggles (6-Pack)-364R - The Home Depot
It makes sense to try it and see. The advantage of a driller toggle is that ones are available with a good load capacity. A problem may be screw length.
Cobra Anchors 3/16 in. x 3 in. Zinc-Plated Driller Toggles (6-Pack)-364R - The Home Depot
A total end to end length of about 2” is about right for a conventional screw to have plenty of thread through the channel, but not so much that the end of the screw can contact the clips or studs. Driller toggles will be tricky since they have to go past the point they secure to and then get snugged up with some resultant bolt shaft extending beyond. I really hope I don’t need to go that route.
When I went through my thread a week ago I remember seeing the thread specs that hit two layers of rock but nothing deeper. They have really deep grooves. I’ll try to find it.
Got two courses of the wallpaper up on the ceiling, and then realized we’d done it incorrectly and couldn’t get anything to match from that point on. Tore it down. Going to make another attempt tomorrow using a smarter method.
Ceiling application of the peel and stick wallpaper didn’t pan out. We got some courses installed and they looked shockingly good. The problem was that the manufacturer didn’t plan out the alignment markings properly, nor did they (clearly) ever intend for their to be seams along the short direction of a roll. The paper looked great, but the seaming was impossible, not to mention an incredibly difficult and time-consuming install. Oh well. It was worth a shot. If the manufacturer had given a little more thought to their product it would have been great. To be fair to them I was installing it in a non-standard application, so maybe some of it’s on me. Like 10% tops 
Now I’m going to just paint the ceiling, which will still look good. I’m going to use a dark chocolatey brown and then trim the entire thing out with a solid white crown molding that follows the line of the vault. It will break up the dark blue and brown colors with a big pop of white. It’ll look great. I’m going to wait for the light fixtures to arrive on Wednesday before making a color decision since I want the ceiling color to work with both the walls and the fixtures, which are all oil rubbed bronze.
Also of note is that I think I have flooring picked out. I went with this really cool hickory engineered hardwood. Initially I was thinking that 7” planks would be best, and I still think that would be the case, but the cost for a 7” planks are substantially higher than the 5.5” that I went with. They still look great, so I’m not concerned with the loss of 1.5” per plank. As a bonus, the warehouse where it’s supplied is in the same city as my office so when I’m ready for flooring I’ll put in an order and then pick it up on my way home from work.
Now I’m going to just paint the ceiling, which will still look good. I’m going to use a dark chocolatey brown and then trim the entire thing out with a solid white crown molding that follows the line of the vault. It will break up the dark blue and brown colors with a big pop of white. It’ll look great. I’m going to wait for the light fixtures to arrive on Wednesday before making a color decision since I want the ceiling color to work with both the walls and the fixtures, which are all oil rubbed bronze.
Also of note is that I think I have flooring picked out. I went with this really cool hickory engineered hardwood. Initially I was thinking that 7” planks would be best, and I still think that would be the case, but the cost for a 7” planks are substantially higher than the 5.5” that I went with. They still look great, so I’m not concerned with the loss of 1.5” per plank. As a bonus, the warehouse where it’s supplied is in the same city as my office so when I’m ready for flooring I’ll put in an order and then pick it up on my way home from work.
Just curious, why didn't you just paint the ceiling in the first place? What was the advantage of the wallpaper?
I outline this a few posts back. I wanted a wood aesthetic to the ceiling, but I’m pushing up against the weight limit per the building’s structural calcs. The paper was a good way to go with respect to weight. It looked awesome on the roll and even the bits we got up, but the seaming was impossible.
after reading 110 pages i get the feeling you're the type that perfection is the minimum requirement. that's not a knock, just the way you are (and not a bad quality to have). could it have looked alright with it not all perfectly aligned? like off in a funky way? or was it just bad not matched up.
